(Topic ID: 18292)

VID's Guide to Upgrading/Rebuilding Flippers

By vid1900

11 years ago


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  • 2,887 posts
  • 488 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 days ago by cnordquist
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Topic index (key posts)

15 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #6 Get the right EOS switch Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #8 Make System 11 Flippers Feel Tight Like Fliptronic Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #88 Replace Old Series Coils With New Parallel Coils Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #140 Udate Old Solid State Flippers Into Fliptronic Style Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #292 List of games with longer/shorter flipper travel Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #294 Rebuilding 1967-1979 Flippers Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #390 Coil stop differences between system 11 and Fliptronic Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #520 Rebuilding Bally Linear Flippers Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)


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#516 9 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

You would need to swap the coils, but it's certainly doable.

Are FP coils the same length as WPC?

1 month later
#545 9 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Picked up a beautiful TOM and have an issue with right flipper sticking. Power off and it stays up so its mechanical...I replaced coil sleeve and filed coil stop (new one ordered) On inspection here is what I found. When the flipper goes all the way up the leaf switch is triggered by the little arm that pushes it against it. The tip of the leaf switch stops about half way up that rocker arm and there seems to be just enough tension to bind it no matter how I bend tip of leaf...all metal pieces look smooth. It is missing the little black plastic tip that slides over it but I am adding one tonight.
When I put it all back together hoping the new stop and maybe a new spring will solve this. Seems weird but anyone have their leaf switch catch on the metal arm that trips it?
Thanks
For somemreason

Yes. It is the inevitable eventuality with worn stops and plungers, or the wrong plunger type installed (too short), or the wrong EOS installed.

6 months later
#822 9 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

If Bally could save 50 cents on an EOS switch, they would have.

I have heard that Bally included that piggy-back upper flipper feed switch to purposefully delay the upper flipper to limit the current draw.

You may see more GI flicker with flipper activity, or even resets or connector scorching. However, I worked on a Flash that had a jumper bypassing the lower feed switch in place for years before I serviced it and it seemed to do OK.

4 months later
#1037 8 years ago
Quoted from RampShot11:

Thanks Vid. Should the power wire be on the banded side of the diode or middle lug or unbanded side of the diodes?

wcs flippers.jpgwcs flippers.jpg

#1038 8 years ago

Can't see the diodes in the top pic but they both appear to be wired properly at first glance

3 weeks later
#1057 8 years ago

Yeah, that's just straight up WRONG. The hold winding is *bypassed* by the Normally CLOSED EOS as the switch is the Path of Least Resistance. When the coil fires and opens the EOS switch, current is forced through the hold coil, which holds the flipper and also keeps the pull coil from burning out.

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