(Topic ID: 18292)

VID's Guide to Upgrading/Rebuilding Flippers

By vid1900

11 years ago


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  • 487 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 32 days ago by RichWolfson
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Topic index (key posts)

15 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #6 Get the right EOS switch Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #8 Make System 11 Flippers Feel Tight Like Fliptronic Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #88 Replace Old Series Coils With New Parallel Coils Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #140 Udate Old Solid State Flippers Into Fliptronic Style Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #292 List of games with longer/shorter flipper travel Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #294 Rebuilding 1967-1979 Flippers Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #390 Coil stop differences between system 11 and Fliptronic Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #520 Rebuilding Bally Linear Flippers Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#675 9 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

So what about the upper flipper in High Speed, would it benefit with a spring upgrade? So Iam gonna get the rebuild kit that you linked for the flippers, gonna get the high voltage EOS switches you linked, the brackets as well you linked for High Speed. I decided not to do the capacitors, only because the type of coil on High Speed dont require it. The EOS is no big deal to clean. So is my list of things to get sound? Thanks

So vid,
I am getting ready to put an order together for high speed. I've seen that you said to get the kit, new plates, high voltage eos, and the capacitor. The quote above said he didn't do the capacitor. Is it needed? Do I need a different coil? And how would I add it to the existing coil?

#680 9 years ago

So I'm good and don't need them? All I need is the new plate so I can add the spring?

1 week later
#685 9 years ago

Vid,
Need some help. Just did rebuild on my gorgar last night. When setting the gap, am I measuring between the contacts or the leafs? 2 other questions. What would make one flipper end a little higher than the other? I did make sure that I have proper coils too. One starts with sfl ( the original ) and one was replaced but starts with just sf. Numbers are correct and the same. If I set the flippers wrong I will probably need new bats due to the set pins correct? I did go with the original hardware from pinball life

#687 9 years ago

image-501.jpgimage-501.jpgimage-300.jpgimage-300.jpgimage-753.jpgimage-753.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

And no that is not my hand. Got my daughter to help. Everything from the pinball life kit is installed. New bushings, plunger assembly, spring, and new eos switch. The orange coil is set to 1/8. I know it doesn't look like it

#688 9 years ago

Just checked the voltage and getting 32vdc at each lug

#693 9 years ago
Quoted from gtown:

Are you saying the flipper bat itself (on the PF) raises higher on one than the other or just that under the PF the blue one is opening the gap more? That gap is definitely too much so you need to bend the switch to adjust, preferably with a tool such as: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-SWK-B
Vid of course will have the more expert/trusted opinion (and hassle you for putting the lugs at the coil stop ).

Yes the flipper bat with the blue coil goes up just a tad higher. Both eos switches are at 1/8" at contacts. I am using the leaf adjustment tool from pinball life. As for the lugs by the stop. I will try to flip them but don't think I have long enough wire to.

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#698 9 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

I was going to say; ya come askin' for help and you can't even touch up your nails???

Funny lmao

#699 9 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Although I can't see it clearly in the pic, I'm going to guess that the L shaped bracket-stop that controls the flipper range of motion has been bumped forward on the blue coiled flipper.
Look at the paint on the underside of the playfield and see if you can tell the position that it used to be.

Ok will check that out but what else could be causing them to still be weak? I am going to file the flipper switches later tonight. I did notice pitting on them.

#701 9 years ago

Now in your pic it looks like the leafs are at 1/8. I have the contact points at 1/8 so this could be the cause then?

#703 9 years ago

Just got done flipping around the coils. Properly adjusted the eos. It's much better. Now I need to play another stock one to compare. Still thinking they should be a little stronger than they are. But overall big improvement. Also got flippers aligned. Pretty happy for my first rebuild

#704 9 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Vid coached me on this a few times early on...
Next time you rotate a flipper bat to check your EOS gap, go really SLOW -- look to SEE that BOTH leaves move (not just the one you are moving with the lever.) You need to be sure that the TENSION of the two leaves touching together is preventing a LITTLE BIT of motion.
If the other leaf doesn't move at ALL when you lever the other one away, then add a little more tension into the system.
-mof

We got movement!!!! Lol thanks for the tip mof I wasn't paying attention to that

5 years later
#2514 3 years ago

So question. When adjusting the eos switch, are you doing 1/8” between the contacts or the leafs?

#2516 3 years ago

Thank you sir. That is what I thought.

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