(Topic ID: 18292)

VID's Guide to Upgrading/Rebuilding Flippers

By vid1900

11 years ago


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  • Latest reply 33 days ago by RichWolfson
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Topic index (key posts)

15 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #6 Get the right EOS switch Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #8 Make System 11 Flippers Feel Tight Like Fliptronic Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #88 Replace Old Series Coils With New Parallel Coils Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #140 Udate Old Solid State Flippers Into Fliptronic Style Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #292 List of games with longer/shorter flipper travel Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #294 Rebuilding 1967-1979 Flippers Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #390 Coil stop differences between system 11 and Fliptronic Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #520 Rebuilding Bally Linear Flippers Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)


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#1676 7 years ago

I replaced my series wound flipper coils on both Pinbot and Highspeed with parallel wound coils, I followed the instructions from posts 88 and 89 and the flippers worked well until the games were used in a competition, after a couple of hours of play the flipper fuse on both Pinbot and Highspeed blew.

The Flipper coils were super hot and had expanded so the coil sleeves are now stuck.

The EOS switches are gapped properly and do definitely open at the end of the flipper travel.

So I have some questions just to be sure I have done things correctly.

1. Is this mod changing series coils to parallel coils OK for Pinbot and Highspeed?
2. Pinbot did not have a capacitor across the EOS on either side. In the Pinbot manual there is no capacitor shown across the EOS, the capacitor is shown across the flipper switch. I placed a capacitor across the EOS switch. Could this be a problem?

Any other ideas of where I have gone wrong with this flipper upgrade?

#1679 7 years ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

Are the flipper pawls (a.k.a. cranks) all the way against the nylon bushings? If so, then there's your problem. There needs to be some play between the pawl and the bushing. Otherwise the flipper will bind as the plastic bushing heats up (expands) with use.

I used the Williams plastic fork tool to gap the pawls. they have a nice amount of up down play.

#1681 7 years ago
Quoted from dozer1:

Could the EOS be breaking the low power windings instead of the high power windings? To me, it sounds like the games worked like they had no functioning EOS switch at all.

This is exactly what I expected to find when I lifted the playfield, that I had wired the EOS wrong, but it looks exactly like the photo in post 89. One side of the EOS goes from the end lug which has only the thin wire and also has the ground return wire. the other side of the EOS goes to the center lug which has the thick coil wire. So when the EOS is closed the ground return is connected to both coils in parallel, when the EOS opens the thick wired coil is disconnected and only the thin wire coil is still connected.

I really can't see anything wrong, so I am stumped.

#1682 7 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Can you upload some pics of the flipper wiring?

Flipper wiring and EOS switch gap photos.

DSC_0186 (resized).JPGDSC_0186 (resized).JPG

DSC_0188 (resized).JPGDSC_0188 (resized).JPG

#1686 7 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Open up that EOS Switch gap - it's so close that the circuit is probably just arcing across and overheating.

Thanks Vid, a bigger EOS gap fixed the problem.

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