(Topic ID: 18292)

VID's Guide to Upgrading/Rebuilding Flippers

By vid1900

11 years ago


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  • 488 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 days ago by cnordquist
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Topic index (key posts)

15 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #6 Get the right EOS switch Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #8 Make System 11 Flippers Feel Tight Like Fliptronic Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #88 Replace Old Series Coils With New Parallel Coils Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #140 Udate Old Solid State Flippers Into Fliptronic Style Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #292 List of games with longer/shorter flipper travel Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #294 Rebuilding 1967-1979 Flippers Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #390 Coil stop differences between system 11 and Fliptronic Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #520 Rebuilding Bally Linear Flippers Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)


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#2254 5 years ago

What is the recommended gap between the bottom of the flipper bat and the playfield surface? Not sure if this is different from manufacturer to manufacturer, but I'm looking specifically at late Bally EMs and early SS Bally machines. I am planning to rebuild flipper mechs and replace flipper bats in this process. I would like to know what is correct as I reassemble.

Thanks

#2258 5 years ago

Thank you all for the reply and link.

1 year later
#2518 3 years ago

I wouldn't spend any time on all that modification. Why not rebuild original flippers with all new parts? If he wants more power, change coils.

2 weeks later
#2529 3 years ago
Quoted from Jstrube:

So I read through the section on upgrading and whatnot... I’m a bit lost...
My Bally Wizard! Needs some flipper help. One side is OK, the other is shot, and all sloppy, you can tell one side was rebuilt...
Am I reading correctly that I can modernize this game with a flipper that will be cheaper to repair in the future for roughly the same price as buying a full repair kit for the originals? The Williams WPC swap?
The links from the many year old page Vid1900 did aren’t quite active, i went to missing pages. I don’t mind spending money, I don’t want to spend it twice!
Thanks!

Get a rebuild kit from PBR. Your stuff is just worn out. The same original style replacement parts are available for now and will be for a long time. You could even get new base plates from Pinball Life. If you have a weak coil, do them when you rebuild. It is a night and day difference once both are rebuilt properly with new parts. https://www.pinballlife.com/classic-bally-flipper-base.html

If I got a machine with some modified flippers, I'd remove and go back to original. Just my preference.

3 months later
#2617 2 years ago

Punch set. I setup on a block of wood and gently start the pin with a small hammer and then use an over sized punch to drive the roll pin in. Then I use the proper size punch to finish setting the pin to the correct depth.

10 months later
#2726 2 years ago
Quoted from RyanStl:

I know this is a simple question, but my set screw holding the flipper shaft is on real good. I have hex drivers on order so I can use a ratchet, but would you all normally try to soak it in penetrating oil or anything like that or is torque king?

I tend to use a drop or two of brake fluid on stuck bolts. I have used all kinds of penetrating oil and I have found brake fluid works very well. A small amount goes a long way. Clean parts once disassembled.

I had a rust bucket of a Bally a few months ago. Didnt break anything using brake fluid where certain things were caked in rust.

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