(Topic ID: 18292)

VID's Guide to Upgrading/Rebuilding Flippers

By vid1900

11 years ago


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  • 488 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 days ago by cnordquist
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Topic index (key posts)

15 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #6 Get the right EOS switch Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #8 Make System 11 Flippers Feel Tight Like Fliptronic Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #88 Replace Old Series Coils With New Parallel Coils Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #140 Udate Old Solid State Flippers Into Fliptronic Style Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #292 List of games with longer/shorter flipper travel Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #294 Rebuilding 1967-1979 Flippers Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #390 Coil stop differences between system 11 and Fliptronic Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #520 Rebuilding Bally Linear Flippers Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)


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#2044 5 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

UPDATING OLD SS FLIPPERS:
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Ok, so you've got an old game like Disco Fever and you want to update to the modern style flipper mechs. This will REALLY tighten up the feel of the game and eliminate that 'bounce back' feel.
First label your wires so you know where your 28v and ground is.

Hey Vid, first I want to say THANK YOU!! I’ve followed many of your guides to fix my pins. In fact I’m waiting from the parts from pinballlife to install 4 new flippers on my BK.

I know this topic is about flippers but I was wondering if there’s a similar way to upgrade the left and right kickers on my BK? I’d like them to be stronger as well. The problem is I can’t find any prefabs on the pinball websites and the bracket that’s already in place is short and won’t allow for a longer coil (like the new longer flipper coils you recommended).

Thank you!!

#2048 5 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Have you rebuilt them yet? New sleeve, link, plunger? Gapped the switches really close? Even modern games uses the same mech design

Quoted from vid1900:

Believe it or not, you don't want to change the strength of the slingshots.
If you have ever put a stronger coil in just to keep the game running until the proper coil comes in, you often find that 1 out of 10 shots go directly into the outlanes.
The shot geometry that was so carefully plotted by Mr Ritchie only works with the proper coil.
So as Zacaj says, rebuild them and enjoy. You won't believe how powerful they are when you take all the slop out of the system.

Quoted from Schwaggs:

Agree with Zacaj and Vid. Disassemble and rebuild the sling mechanism.
Make sure the sling arm is not damaged and specifically at the point where it hits the rubber. Replace if needed.
Disassemble, clean and lube the pivot point (one of the only places lube is allowed on a pinball machine).
Inspect the plunger and replace if mushroomed.
Inspect the link to make sure it hasn't become sloppy. Replace if needed.
New coil sleeve.
Mount the coil on the bracket nice and tight (coil should not easily move/rattle on the bracket when properly installed).
New 22uf 50+v electrolytic capacitor on the switch (watch the polarity of this capacitor, it matters).
Make sure 100 ohm resistor and capacitor are in series across the switch (see page 23 of the manual if in doubt about this wiring).
New rubber around the sling .
Check switch wiring for good connections. Both sling switches should be wired in parallel (see page 23 of the manual if in doubt about this wiring).
Switches cleaned and adjusted.
This should get your slings back into shape!

Zac, Vid, and schwaggs, thank you! I will follow those instructions and start the rebuild.

2 months later
#2131 5 years ago

Hi Vid, I’ve been measuring the resistance on the flipper coils of some pins I picked up recently. I’ve read that it’s generally recommended to replace a coil when it’s below 2.5 ohms. I noticed most flipper coils read 1.2-1.8 ohms while connected but read 27 ohms or more when disconnected. Some of the other types of coils under the playfield & in the relays will read 5 or more ohms while still connected.

My question is, do I need to disconnect the flipper coils each time I test them or is there a way to avoid having to do that?

Thanks!

#2135 5 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

As you own experience has shown, you DO get different readings on a coil when it is still connected to the rest of the circuit.
Do you ALWAYS have to disconnect a coil to test it? No.....
As you work on more games, you get a **feel** for what a coil should read, even in circuit.
If one pop coil reads .2 and all the others 3.6, you know you have a problem.
So if you saw a .2 coil, you would certainly unsolder that coil and test again.
So if out of the circuit, you still have .2 ohms, you snip one leg of the coil's diode and test again.
If the coil now reads normally, you only have a bad diode (and a 2 cent fix).
If the coil still reads .2 ohms, even with the diode snipped out of the circuit, it's internally shorted - dead.

Awesome, That'll save me a lot of soldering. Thanks Vid!!

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