HI, I'm working in a '74 Williams Triple Action and feel like the flippers are a little weak. I appreciate this thread, it's helped me realize I need to rebuild and I'm ready to give it a go. I'm planning on keeping with the original style (I like things as vintage as possible). I thought I'd check the coils and have a question. The flippers right now have FL21-375/28-400. However the manual states it should be FL20-300/28-400. As far as I can tell, I think the coils are working, but don't think they are the right ones.

Should I order new FL20-300/28-400 or keep the ones in there? What would be the difference? Could the wrong coil be causing the flippers to feel a little weak?

Thanks.

With help from this thread, I rebuilt my flippers and replaced the coils. The coils that were on my machine were weaker than standard. One side works great, but the other won't fire. When I push the flipper button, I hear a noise but it doesn't move. I've already re-soldered everything just to be sure, so I'm pretty confident that it isn't a problem there. Interestingly enough, if I hold the button and manually move the coil, it will hold on. It just won't fire when I push the button (just make a weak noise). Is it possible I just got a bad coil? Any other thoughts?

Thanks, I actually thought of the EOS switch. I originally didn't change it, but decided to when I did the second round of soldering. So, the situation is the same with both the old and new switch (although I did run a flexstone through the new one based on the suggestion just in case).

Attached are some pictures. I had to solder on some extra wire because everything was really short and I'm new to soldering, so I know it's not real neat. But that's what it looks like now.

Also, here is a video of what's happening. I'm pretty sure I put the outer wires on the same sides they were. Would this happen if I accidentally inverted them?

This is a '74 Williams Triple Action. Thanks!

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IMG_0906 (resized).JPG

Well I just learned a lesson in taking better pictures before moving anything. Turns out I reversed the two outer lugs. I switched the wires and now it's working. Thanks for the input.

Has anyone had the experience of trying to remove a flipper bat when one of the bolts holding it in was broken off? I've got one and the bolt is broken flush with the pawl. I'm thinking using a cutting wheel on a Dremel and trying to cut the pawl. Does that sound possible or is there another way?

pawl (resized).jpg

Great idea. Unfortunately, making a slot didn't work. Turns out the metal wasn't too strong and I was able to cut it off. Not as bad as I had feared.

Great minds think alike! I did try those, but couldn't get any bite into the screw.

Working on an old Williams EM (1973 Jubilee) and the flipper bats kept rotating no matter how hard I turned the screws. So I did the whole flipper rebuild kit, and bought new flipper bats. Now, one is holding strong, but the other is still rotating slightly down as you play until it's really low. Are there any tricks to get them to stay put? The screws on the new pawls don't really have a point, so they aren't biting into the bats. Should new shafts be roughed up a little? Maybe there is something else I'm missing?

I did a flipper rebuild on my Bally X's & O's including the flipper switches as they were badly pitted. I'm getting some sticking of the flippers on the right side. While investigating, I noticed that the flipper switch itself on that side seems to be sticking. I cleaned with alcohol but still happening. Can the flipper switch itself magnetize somehow? I widened the gap a little to see if that would help, but still happening. It seems to start after a few minutes of play, so it builds up over time.

OK, sounds like adding a capacitor is easy enough. Just solder between the two tabs, right? Never done this before, what capacitor do I need? I'm about to place an order with PBResource, so easy to add. There are a ton of things on that page! Any idea which I can use?

http://www.pbresource.com/eleccomp.html