(Topic ID: 18292)

VID's Guide to Upgrading/Rebuilding Flippers


By vid1900

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,363 posts
  • 395 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 23 hours ago by Leveeger
  • Topic is favorited by 1,081 Pinsiders
  • Topic is sticky in its sub-forum

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Topic index (key posts)

14 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #6 Get the right EOS switch Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

Post #8 Make System 11 Flippers Feel Tight Like Fliptronic Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

Post #88 Replace Old Series Coils With New Parallel Coils Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

Post #140 Udate Old Solid State Flippers Into Fliptronic Style Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

Post #292 List of games with longer/shorter flipper travel Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

Post #294 Rebuilding 1967-1979 Flippers Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

Post #390 Coil stop differences between system 11 and Fliptronic Posted by vid1900 (5 years ago)

Post #520 Rebuilding Bally Linear Flippers Posted by vid1900 (5 years ago)

Post #710 Classic Bally Early Solid State Flippers Posted by vid1900 (4 years ago)

Post #712 Coil Stop Wear Posted by vid1900 (4 years ago)

Post #713 Plunger wear Posted by vid1900 (4 years ago)


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#2079 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

The Flipper Bushing is what keeps the flipper from dragging on the playfield and ruining it.
When you see games with two "angel wings" carved into the playfield in front of the flippers, you know nobody ever replaced the Bushings.
We, of course, ALWAYS replace the Bushings when rebuilding the flippers.
Even if the flippers are not dragging on the playfield (yet), they will often have too much play because the Bushing holes have become worn.
Remove the 3 nuts and the Bushing will pull right out.

Never seen shank screws used for older games, but it sounds in theory to be a nice option to avoid the constant problem with loose bushing screws, especially on those Williams EMs sporting DC flippers; my only concern with this method - would the screw heads show on the P/F?

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