I just swapped out my flippers to a different color on my Deadpool. I purchased the flippers from PBL. The issue I am having is that both of the flipper bat slowly begins to move upwards. After 20 bats in move up by about a mm.

I checked the new flipper bay shafts with a micrometer and they are same thickness as the stock ones.
When I installed them I put a gap tool under flipper to ensure same height for both, I tighten the hex screw. to lock flipper in place, I cant tighten them anymore as they are very snug and I don't want to bend or break the shaft. They are not clamped down so much that there is not a gap between each plate that holds the flipper.
What am I doing wrong? Ive replaced flipper bats on my other sterns and Williams machines with no issues. The machine itself only has 300 plays on it.

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Are there any physical differences between Bally coil stops:
A-613-127
A-613-67

or A-613-83 for that matter?

Are these interchangeable? I have some A-613-67s that I ordered for my Playboy and want to use them on some linear flippers.

Has anyone had the experience of trying to remove a flipper bat when one of the bolts holding it in was broken off? I've got one and the bolt is broken flush with the pawl. I'm thinking using a cutting wheel on a Dremel and trying to cut the pawl. Does that sound possible or is there another way?

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I too would like to know if there is a way to do this.

I'm getting ready to rebuild the flippers on my Vector, and I considered replacing the linear flippers with WPC type but I was having trouble finding some of the parts. Namely the "high voltage" EOS switches. Some of your links from pinball life no longer work, including the one to the proper EOS switch. I was able to find the WPC flipper assemblies but I was at a loss for the proper EOS switch. I ended up just buying a stupid rebuild kit for the linear flippers. Do you have a current link or a part number for the proper EOS switch for classic bally to WPC flipper mech swap? Next time I rebuild I'll get the WPC stuff. Searching pinball life and other sites for "high voltage end of stroke" wasn't bringing me much luck.

I think you are on the right track there. I might try Dremel cutting a flat head slot in the broken off screw and removing with a flat head screwdriver. Try and wet a small rag or something to catch the grindings.

You need this; https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-end-of-stroke-switch-normally-closed.html

WMS/Bally part number 03-7811

Great idea. Unfortunately, making a slot didn't work. Turns out the metal wasn't too strong and I was able to cut it off. Not as bad as I had feared.

Have you tried a screw extractor?

Great minds think alike! I did try those, but couldn't get any bite into the screw.

Well I tried to rebuild the lower right flipper today and It was a fail. The cap exploded after playing just a few min. I went from the blue FL23/600 to the proper FL-11630. The cap that was on there was not the larger yellow cap that you normal see used. I did not change out this cap as it came this way. The cap is attached across the EOS switch. And was not touching any other metal piece. As you can tell by the contacts it was past time to upgrade this flipper.

The lower left flipper also has a small cap instead of the yellow one that someone else had switched. I have not rebuild the left side yet.
Any ideas why this happened.IMG_5955 (resized).JPGIMG_5957 (resized).JPGIMG_5956 (resized).JPG

How do you tell if a cap is polarized or non-polarized?

You need this cap.

https://www.pinballlife.com/22uf-250v-axial-capacitor.html

Thanks for your help I will place an order and replace both caps on the lower flippers. The other side has the same type.
Will it hurt anything to play the game with the cap missing?

Not in the short term.

Well I was able to get both of the lower F-14 Tomcat flippers upgraded to the better version. Does make a difference in play. Worth the money but a pain to solder the wires on.

Now on to my flight 2000. Is there an upgrade kit for it's flippers? I have an issue with the wood screws have come loose that attach the flipper bracket to the bottom of the playfield. How do I go about fixing this? Looks to need new holes drilled to hold the bracket to the playfield or maybe plug the old holes and then put in new screws.

Naw much easier. Get a toothpick or 2 (chopstick, skewer), wood glue/gorilla, dip in glue, stick in hole, snap off or let dry then snap/cut off wood sticking out of hole.
Ready to go after that

I just re did the flippers in my T2 and the flippers are on the weak side now, I think the EOS is dis-engaging too soon.

As per the picture in this post, the gap looks like 1/16" and not 1/8". I have the leaf adjusters, for me to achieve the 1/8" I have to make the Eos disengage at around 3/4 or a hair less of the primary coil, so I think I am loosing power there... If I make the gap smaller, I can make it engage later....

I need practice setting this up, I am just wondering why does this need to be 1/8 and not 1/16 to optimize the power before the coil changes to low power.

What am I missing? Thanks
vid1900

thanks I missed this in the manual, appreciate the help, cheers.

Hi
When we are dealing with new Stern models, Is there a number of plays when the flippers start to get weak and worn out and would be better to rebuilt the flipper kit?
I have a spike 2 Iron Maiden but I’m not the 1st owner, so don’t know how it was like playing with the mechanism like new.
So don’t have a clue about the weakness of the flippers during the game. It is playing well but maybe it would be better and easier to get some shots with strong flippers
Like with a car, there are several parts with so much use that we must change before it stars to not work properly, from x miles to x miles.
All the best!

Yes, gold dust from the coil stop was the first sign that I noticed that maybe there were lots of games.
Then I changed coil stops and solve the issue.
Btw, what do you think about this audits? Time to rebuilt the flipper kit?
Thank you for your time.

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Stern recommends considering a flipper rebuilt every 5000 games per the manual

On my gottlieb genesis, my left flipper acts a bit funky; only after holding it up for several (over 10) seconds, there develops a delay between when I press the flipper button, and when the bat flips. Also, with the flipper button held, and the bat up, I can force the bat down, and it takes a good 1/2 second for the primary coil to re-engage, which is very perplexing because the EOS switch on the flipper mech is normally open. So forcing the bat down immediately opens the EOS, so I don't think it's an oxidation problem with the EOS switch. It looks like it's in the correct position too. I'm thinking maybe a bad coil?

the eos should be normally closed at rest? if you push the bat down it closes again which gives it the extra power to stay up

Might be the plunger sticking to the coil sleeve, might be a swollen coil or just a bad dirty sleeve.

Ok so I bought a twilight zone and the right flipper got really weak after my first 20 games or so......based on what I am reading in the beginning of this thread I don’t understand the EOS switch setup, this appears to be installed backwards? All 4 flippers have a similar setup, open at rest and closed when coil engaged. I ordered rebuild kits but want to better understand the problem / setup here, appreciate any help you all can provide!

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Twilight Zone is a fliptronics game. None of the talk here about gaps, etc matters for that. There should be a note stapled to your playfield saying that the EOS is backwards from older games technially.

Fliptronics games should have Normally Open EOS switches. They should close right near the end of the stroke, but if they don't it's not a big deal. The game will even work fine with no EOS.

If the flipper is getting weak over time, it's usually the optos on your flipper board - either a good cleaning, or they need to be replaced from age.

Great thanks, appreciate the quick response!

I probably stated my problem wrong, it is what I suspected, a cracked bushing.

Will keep this in mind though!

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Hey Vid,
I bought a beat up flash about 5 years ago I was going to get operational, play for a while then sell. I was going through my stuff a few weeks ago and discovered 3 (one left & 2 right)of the WPC flipper mechs I must have bought to upgrade the 3 flippers. They have the right coils but they all have the same EOS switch. In the game the lower right flipper has a dual contact switch, I'm guessing to actuate the upper right flipper. I have pulled anything apart yet but that switch stack looks pretty fat and I might have a hard time fitting it on the mounting bracket if i want to swap it over while I wait for a new switch to come in from pinball life. This is what I think I want to order:

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-flipper-leaf-switch-double-contact.html

I just want to confirm that is the right one and get some direction on how to ensure everything is going to fit on the plate where they single eos switch is now.

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That is a cabinet double flipper switch. You need this instead.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/ASW-A10-45

Thanks Grumpster! So just add that onto the existing stack on the new assy?

Thanks for all the help in this thread.

I'm wondering if it makes sense to add capacitors to the eos switches of a wpc?

Yep!

Are you using a fliptronic board, then no. But if you are using parallel wound coils on a WPC flipper bracket, then yes use a cap.

well would you look at that? after some more rummaging around I found my bin with the leftover EOS switches and low & behold....a nice fresh ASW-A10-45 from marco specialties. I think bolting on the backplane of the switch mount will work.

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yup good call Vid. I'll get rid of those b connectors. another question and i think you have covered it previously. Is the stock bushing that came on the assy from Terry suitable or do I need to change that?

Thanks you sir. I will probably get on this project tomorrow night and update the thread on how it goes. Seems pretty straightforward from here.

I really do not know if ths is the right place to post this, but I watched a cool video from Jersey Jacks on flippers last week and can't find the thread.

I have 2 Addams family games and one played so much harder, I realized the flippers were pointing down the drain like 2 degrees compared to the other machine. Moved the flippers up so little you can hardly notice it and it is like a new game!

What is the best way to set the angle of flippers on a game?

Williams games have holes in the playfield that should be aligned to the back edge of the flipper bat. Usually that results in flippers whose front edges are parallel to the inlane guide, but not in all cases