(Topic ID: 18292)

VID's Guide to Upgrading/Rebuilding Flippers


By vid1900

8 years ago



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  • 2,463 posts
  • 412 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 days ago by slochar
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There are 2463 posts in this topic. You are on page 50 of 50.
#2451 3 months ago

I'm curious how many of these eBay kits have been sold to people experiancing the same problem. I emailed the seller and explained to him the situation and how it needed to be corrected.

3 weeks later
#2452 74 days ago

Updating this thread with flipper travel question. Working on a STTNG for a friend.

I bought the flipper rebuild kit from pinball life. Easy install. Question is my right flipper travels almost full 1/4" further up then my left...I have them both resting jsut above the dot on pf and look even. I'm looking at everything mechanical underneath but just cant and see what could do this. the coil stops identical. correct coil .I replaced the flipper mech and that is it...the metal bracket with the rubber stop both look like 90 degree angles. It really just feels like the right flipper travels further then the left before plunger hits the stop....anything else to check?

Thx

#2453 74 days ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Updating this thread with flipper travel question. Working on a STTNG for a friend.
I bought the flipper rebuild kit from pinball life. Easy install. Question is my right flipper travels almost full 1/4" further up then my left...I have them both resting jsut above the dot on pf and look even. I'm looking at everything mechanical underneath but just cant and see what could do this. the coil stops identical. correct coil .I replaced the flipper mech and that is it...the metal bracket with the rubber stop both look like 90 degree angles. It really just feels like the right flipper travels further then the left before plunger hits the stop....anything else to check?
Thx

Any chance the coil plungers are slightly different lengths?

#2454 73 days ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Any chance the coil plungers are slightly different lengths?

At this point the only thing it can be is that or a slight bent bracket. The coil stops are identical.

Ill see if I can compare both plungers.

Only way I see to resolve is a slight bend out of L bracket and realign flipper

2 weeks later
#2455 56 days ago

The new Cranks have 3 cap head bolt holes in them to grip the flipper shaft.
We are going to hijack one of the holes to mount a little spring wing arm. The arm is just a piece of "L" bracket. This allows us to avoid the junky Compression Springs, and use the much superior Extension Springs.

Can someone please give me a part # from somewhere where I can get this "L" Bracket? They don't allow anyone in my area to "shop" in the hardware store right now, but they will get it for me if I can get them a part #. Thanks much, mk

1 month later
#2456 23 days ago

Has this been addressed.......?

How do you adjust the flipper L-shaped stop brackets on a Gottlieb EM for proper travel?

thx

1 week later
#2457 16 days ago

I've just done a full rebuild of my left flipper, replaced the coil too as the sleeve was stuck fast in it.

Two questions, whilst the right flipper is working fine, since I bought two new coils and rebuild kit for both sides, is it worth just spending another hour or two (yes I'm slow doing this ) to do the right as well? Or should I just put the 2nd coil/kit to one side and wait until there's wear or signs of issues with the right flipper?

Second question is regarding the EOS switch. The guide says 3.2mm gap, although manual for BOP says 0.062inch +- 0.015inch. I take it that distance is measured between the two round contact points that touch when the switch is closed? Is the manual correct for gap distance, it's about 1.57mm give or take vs 3.2mm in this guide?

#2458 16 days ago

I always rebuild both at the same time. You will likely see a difference after you play for a while and it'll always be in the back of your mind.

However you don't need to change the coil unless it is bad. That should save you about an hour of soldering time.

I'd stick with the official BOP gap, the guide has too many different models to be accurate on everything.

#2459 14 days ago
Quoted from Black_Knight:

I always rebuild both at the same time. You will likely see a difference after you play for a while and it'll always be in the back of your mind.
However you don't need to change the coil unless it is bad. That should save you about an hour of soldering time.
I'd stick with the official BOP gap, the guide has too many different models to be accurate on everything.

I decided to rebuild it then I won't be wondering if one is playing better than the other. Didn't take as long as the first despite taking my time Glad I did too, the bushing only had 2 screws holding it in and no nuts on the rear. The coil whilst working had one diode soldered to the lug in a bit of a messy way (working but messy) and the sleeve was stuck inside so I just replaced the coil at the same time.

I think next time I need to buy anything for the machine I'll pickup a leaf tool as adjusting the EOS gap was a bit tricky with just a screw driver.

1 week later
#2460 8 days ago

What is the cure for .. IDK if there's an agreed-upon term.. "Ghost flip" - when the flipper is fully engaged in attempt to catch a ball, the ball lands on the flipper and it gives in just a little but then returns, causing the ball to flip up. For reference, Bally, FutureSpa. Rebuilt the flippers but did not replace the cranks. The set screws are fully tight. Is it an issue with the cranks, shafts, coils, or ?

#2461 7 days ago
Quoted from mr2xbass:

What is the cure for .. IDK if there's an agreed-upon term.. "Ghost flip" - when the flipper is fully engaged in attempt to catch a ball, the ball lands on the flipper and it gives in just a little but then returns, causing the ball to flip up. For reference, Bally, FutureSpa. Rebuilt the flippers but did not replace the cranks. The set screws are fully tight. Is it an issue with the cranks, shafts, coils, or ?

Coil is fine. Have you rebuilt it’s recently? Make sure the eos is good, adjusted properly, coil stop isn’t worn, plunger isn’t worn.

#2462 7 days ago

New in the last month. Kit from PBR , but the “mini” w/o new cranks. Adjusted the rod when first installed. I wouldn’t think it’s the coil. I’ll get back to it today and see if I can identify a better cause.

#2463 7 days ago
Quoted from mr2xbass:

What is the cure for .. IDK if there's an agreed-upon term.. "Ghost flip" - when the flipper is fully engaged in attempt to catch a ball, the ball lands on the flipper and it gives in just a little but then returns, causing the ball to flip up. For reference, Bally, FutureSpa. Rebuilt the flippers but did not replace the cranks. The set screws are fully tight. Is it an issue with the cranks, shafts, coils, or ?

All machines can do this to some extent it depends on the speed of the ball. A fast moving ball can overcome the hold winding on the flipper causing it to droop. You can look for flipper coils that have the stronger hold windings (the 2nd number on the coil like 23-4500, 23-5050 - higher number 4500/5050 - 5050 is weaker in the hold windings.) To a certain extent it's normal, but it depends on how extreme it is. Adjust the end of stroke to open at the very end so that if it does take a hit it will flip back up right away.

Did you replace the flipper bats as well? If you reuse them, sometimes the 'divot' that's worn into the flipper bat shaft can have some play. One solution is to swap left and right flippers. The shaft/position can be adjusted and seem tight, but the set screw will tend to bite back into that divot no matter what.

I'd take the slight impact any day over when the ball hops over the flipper when you're holding it up!

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