Quoted from sturner:is there a good guide of sorts for learning how to solder?
YouTube is your friend
I'm certain there are dozens of great videos you can watch.
EDIT:
here you go.
Quoted from sturner:is there a good guide of sorts for learning how to solder?
YouTube is your friend
I'm certain there are dozens of great videos you can watch.
EDIT:
here you go.
I would like to do this to my 3 machines.
Earlier you said to check the coils for the correct ones and that a lot of F-14s have the wrong coils in them. Is this referring to something other than the service bulletin switch off the upper coils?
My Sorcerer flippers (lower) look and feel like they have been rebuilt recently, but the upper flipper needs to be done. Should I just do all 3 anyway and upgrade to the new spring? Are the upper flipper parts the same as the other flippers? Same question for my F-14.
My Demolition Man's upper flipper doesn't always return to its home position so I'd like to do that. But looking underneath, I noticed that the EOS switches are closed, so is it safe to assume they are Normally Closed for this game? Is there a proper gap to be set for these, or do these not affect the flipper strength as NC contacts like they do in the normally open ones. Also, my lower flippers aren't in line with the lane guides, but those guides seem rather low, how do I set the proper angle for these flippers?
Do I buy the same flipper kits for all 3 games?
Great write-up, can't wait to get into this.
Quoted from Geocab:Earlier you said to check the coils for the correct ones and that a lot of F-14s have the wrong coils in them. Is this referring to something other than the service bulletin switch off the upper coils?
Depending on the production date of your game, you may need to put the different coils in the uppers.
Quoted from Geocab:My Sorcerer flippers (lower) look and feel like they have been rebuilt recently, but the upper flipper needs to be done. Should I just do all 3 anyway and upgrade to the new spring? Are the upper flipper parts the same as the other flippers? Same question for my F-14.
Personally, I'd do all three, it's not like it's expensive to do.
Top flipper coil is FL24/600-30/2600
Lower flippers are FL23/600-30/2600
Quoted from Geocab:Also, my lower flippers aren't in line with the lane guides, but those guides seem rather low, how do I set the proper angle for these flippers?
Same way you do the uppers on F14, clamp flipper and lane guide to a 1x1" strip of wood. Tighten flippers, remove wood.
Thank you for the answers, Vid.
My F-14 has the weaker coils from the service bulletin, but they are correct following that.
My recently purchased routed LOTR has a flipper problem but I'm not 100% sure it requires a rebuild. When the flipper switch is pressed the flipper activates and sometimes just drops down. Sometimes it doesn't activate at all. Seems intermittent but consistently it isn't performing properly and it seems to get worse with play quickly to the point the game is unplayable.
In your opinion, would you recommend a flipper rebuild or is it another problem that can be more easily remedied?
Thanks
Tkaye, a rebuild focuses more on the physical performance. You are describing an electrical problem. Rebuilds are great for weak flippers. I wouldn't expect a rebuild to fix your problem.
I would check the cabinet switches and all the solder joints on those switches and the coils too. I have heard of some common flipper issue with modern sterns but cant remember specifically what it is right now. I'm sure someone else will chime in on this.
The issues sound like those that were experienced by the Data East machines with the solid state flipper boards. The fuse holders were weak, would break, and would allow intermittent electrical connections for both the initial flip and the hold circuits.
I don't know if the modern Sterns have this issue also.
Well, they're weak assed flippers as well so maybe it's both a rebuild and solder joints/alignment issues!
This thread might help a little.
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flipper-intermittently-strong-then-weak-jurassic-park
Make sure your EOS switches are good and clean and have good pressure between the contacts when closed.
Quoted from Tkaye:I think it may be a bad coil itself...anyone see anything that could be obvious to them?
Did you try cleaning the contacts on the flipper switches?
Quoted from gweempose:Did you try cleaning the contacts on the flipper switches?
Yes I did... I just dragged some paper through them when closed to remove some of the crud accumulated...I will try that again...
Those are lane select switches, and you want to keep them.
They don't need to be replaced though, just cleaned, they aren't high voltage switches like the EOS switches are. (Unless they are not cleanable for some reason or you just want to replace them)
Yes, Lane Change. Hard to tell for sure, but it looks like they are adjusted closed. They should be open when the flipper is at rest and close when the the EOS switch is hit.
Posting to monitor this thread, need to rebuild some old flippers, move along, nothing to see here...
Quoted from Rando:Posting to monitor this thread, need to rebuild some old flippers, move along, nothing to see here...
Why not just add it to your Pinside favorites? (the little star icon at the top of the page)
My parts came in the mail today. Demolition Man's upper flipper will be first because its sticking keeps blocking my left loop shot. I'll probably do all of the flipper changes this weekend though, as long as I don't break something.
To do this on my Sorcerer I would need another bracket because the EOS switch holder doesn't raise up high enough to drill a hole. There isn't a capacitor so it probably didn't need to be so high. Damn, I really wanted to do this today. At least I can clean the parts.
If I get a new bracket, are the newer ones the same size?
Great, I'll be getting that soon then. I pieced together the new parts with the old spring, and the flipper is working much better.
Quoted from o-din:Hey Vid, you got any tips on zipper flippers?
Well, here they are. I decided it's time. This settup is quite the engineering marvel for it's time, but over the years it can develop slop. Fireball is a great game, but when the flippers have a two and a half inch gap when open, it's time to take action!
This will be an easy fix because the fat round washer that acts as a stop is worn down on one side. Loosening the screw and turning it will bring it back where it should be.
I will disassemble the whole unit, clean it, lube it, new coils and hardware, and adjust out any other slop.
DSCN1481.JPG
Quoted from o-din:This settup is quite the engineering marvel for it's time,
And to think they did it without CAD...
Quoted from Geocab:Great, I'll be getting that soon then. I pieced together the new parts with the old spring, and the flipper is working much better.
I spoke too soon. It worked better for a bit, but now it sticks in the up position. That new base plate can't come soon enough so I can use the new spring.
I was thinking of rebuilding the flippers on my Gottlieb Hot Shot machine but I don't know if it's entirely necessary.
The right flipper bat won't stay put and slips out of position after only 5 minutes of playing. The socket head screws won't stay in. I even tried wrapping them in plumbers tape to give their threading more bite but it still slips.
Does it sound like I just need new screws and a new flipper shaft?
I'd just get a whole new rebuild kit, and some new flippers.
Game will play as good as new (let alone not slip).
After re-doing flippers on my Cyclone, I found quite a gap between the two brackets holding the coil in place. After some loosening, tightening, and re-adjusting, I was not able to close the gap. Not sure the source of the problem. Was the new bracket not angled well from the manufacturer? Not sure. I called MacGyver, and he suggested that I use a toothpick. It sure as hell closed the gap well, only it's not the "perfect" angle. I traded a perfect angle for a closed gap. As far as I can tell it was worth it. I can't speak to long-term value though.
<see 3 pics>
-mof
Is that flange part of the flipper bracket where the coil stop attaches bent down toward the playfield?
Quoted from Wolfmarsh:Is that flange part of the flipper bracket where the coil stop attaches bent down toward the playfield?
Great Q, not sure, will take a look when I get home.
-mof
Can you put it in a vise and bend it back to 90 degrees proper?
Is the front bracket squared up?
I think the toothpick will not last, and will cause the coil stop to loosen.
Something askew there, not only is the backstop not at 90 to the baseplate, its also twisted in relation to the coil.
I'd like to try replacing both sets of flipper mechs on my BK. I see a few posts on page three about it. Has anyone tried it?
-mof
Quoted from mof:I'd like to try replacing both sets of flipper mechs on my BK. I see a few posts on page three about it. Has anyone tried it?
-mof
I have.
Quoted from vid1900:I have.
I'm in luck! Can you summarize what is required to do both sets in a BK?
I saw the link on page 3, but not sure what mods (from the external link posted) are required to get the upper brackets in.
I have yet to buy any brackets.
-mof
Quoted from mof:I saw the link on page 3, but not sure what mods (from the external link posted) are required to get the upper brackets in.
That Siegecraft site is great.
I'd pull the whole playfield and put it on a rotisserie (or across 2 sawhorses) because the upper has a few hard to reach screws.
Quoted from vid1900:That Siegecraft site is great.
I'd pull the whole playfield and put it on a rotisserie (or across 2 sawhorses) because the upper has a few hard to reach screws.
I appreciate that information. My workspace is a little on the smaller side for now. Perhaps I'll just upgrade the two lower PF flippers (what's most critical for ball-saving) until I invest in a rotisserie or build something to support a PF.
I already bought 10+ sets of (flipper arms/bushings/switches) so as long as I am re-using the old coils, am I just grabbing 4 new brackets for ~$9 each? It wasn't clear to me if I should have Terry build out 4 packages, or if someone like me with parts, can just grab 4 brackets. Any links appreciated.
thanks!
-mof
You already have the coils (check the manual and make sure they are the right ones), so you don't need a complete build out.
Make sure that you have the new springs and the little tab/arm they connect to.
Don't be afraid to pull the playfield out. It takes maybe 2 minutes. If you don't have sawhorses, then 2 couch cushions will work (and look super ghetto in your required picture postings).
Quoted from mof:Perhaps I'll just upgrade the two lower PF flippers
Perfectly acceptable way to do things. Swap the 2 easy ones, play it for a bit, like them so much you HAVE TO buy the parts to make a rotisserie.
Quoted from vid1900:Make sure that you have the new springs and the little tab/arm they connect to.
What is the technical term for these? I already rebuilt my flippers but want to upgrade from the conical spring to the other one that requires the little tab arm. If anyone wants extra points and can post a part link to pinball life it would be awesome, but name or part number will be just fine.
Quoted from practicalsteve:What is the technical term for these? I already rebuilt my flippers but want to upgrade from the conical spring to the other one that requires the little tab arm. If anyone wants extra points and can post a part link to pinball life it would be awesome, but name or part number will be just fine.
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1510
Flipper Spring Retainer Bracket
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