We're back!

After a disaster in our datacenter took down our server, we are now running Pinside on a brand new server. However, things may not work as expected as we are still polishing the playfield and adjusting some switches! We might be switching to maintenance mode a few times. Please see this forum topic for more info.

(Topic ID: 18292)

VID's Guide to Upgrading/Rebuilding Flippers


By vid1900

8 years ago

Topic Heartbeat


Topic Stats

  • 2,606 posts
  • 436 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 days ago by vid1900
  • Topic is favorited by 1,217 Pinsiders
  • Topic is sticky in its sub-forum

You

Linked Games

Topic index (key posts)

15 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 2606 posts in this topic. You are on page 48 of 53.
#2351 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Turned out to be a bad diode on the coil.

Yeah I direct short can do that.

Usually you blow a transistor before it happens though, I think.

#2352 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Yeah I direct short can do that.
Usually you blow a transistor before it happens though, I think.

Yeah I was trying to use my meter like a good boy and the diode seemed to test okay. Obviously it wasn’t okay.

2 weeks later
#2353 1 year ago

Hi All,

Can anyone tell me what size these locking nuts are, As I live in France everything is metric.

When I look on pinball web sites they just give a size and not what its for.

Any help much appreciated

Flipper locking nuts (resized).jpg
#2354 1 year ago
Quoted from LGFAutos:

Hi All,
Can anyone tell me what size these locking nuts are, As I live in France everything is metric.
When I look on pinball web sites they just give a size and not what its for.
Any help much appreciated[quoted image]

Just take the bracket to the hardware store, get new nuts and bolts that fit.

#2355 1 year ago

Thank you for the quick reply

But everything over here is metric, so nothing will fit. All I will do is mangle the threads up on the base plate

#2356 1 year ago
Quoted from LGFAutos:

Thank you for the quick reply
But everything over here is metric, so nothing will fit. All I will do is mangle the threads up on the base plate

Don’t worry about the threads. Get a screw that is smaller than the plate hole and put a nut on the back of it.

#2357 1 year ago
Quoted from LGFAutos:

Thank you for the quick reply
But everything over here is metric, so nothing will fit. All I will do is mangle the threads up on the base plate

You are going to face that issue constantly. It must get expensive over time to order screws and nuts. Just re-tap them out to metric sizes.

#2358 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Don’t worry about the threads. Get a screw that is smaller than the plate hole and put a nut on the back of it.

It won't really be a locking nut then though?

They're 6-32 iirc

#2359 1 year ago
Quoted from zacaj:

It won't really be a locking nut then though?
They're 6-32 iirc

Put a lock washer underneath it.

#2360 1 year ago
Quoted from zacaj:

It won't really be a locking nut then though?
They're 6-32 iirc

The mounting plate is 6-32 thread.

You would have to drill and re-tap it for metric.

6-32 is available at most big hardware stores in Europe.

Way simpler to use 6-32 screws and nuts.

You dont want the screws loose in the holes. This is why the holes are threaded, it insures a snug fit.

It's not necessary to use the Keps nuts.

You can add a star washer if you want to a small screw.

Keps nuts were a pre-loctite solution. They don't hold as well.

New games eliminated keps in favor of standard regular nuts with loctite 242 (blue color) applied to the treads. Better and cheaper.

So any nuts and bolts that fit with blue loctite are perfect if you want to drill and tap.

In fact, use blue loctite on almost everything to keep things from falling apart.

#2361 1 year ago
Quoted from zacaj:

It won't really be a locking nut then though?

Use some medium strength loctite, like the factory did. Won't matter if you have a starwasher nut or not.

#2362 1 year ago

^^guess that was already covered.

1 week later
#2363 1 year ago
Quoted from LGFAutos:

Thank you for the quick reply
But everything over here is metric, so nothing will fit. All I will do is mangle the threads up on the base plate

Hi fellow country man. Shifting to metric will be musch easier for you and I... You will find what's needed at your local DIY store.
But prior to that, get a calliper (pied à coulisse) to measure the diameter... Drilling holes to allow your new screw to pass through, may be necessary...

This option will be faster and cheaper... That's the way to go except if ya wanna stick to originals absolutly...

#2364 1 year ago

Thank you very much for all the help.

Have sourced all the parts needed from Amazon USA, and they were a lot cheaper than pinball shops here including postage. (Mad that)

1 week later
#2365 1 year ago

I'm rebuilding flippers for my Funhouse. Should I follow recommended 1/8" EOS gap or gap which is recommended by operations manual 0.062"? I would not like to ruin my new EOS switches by arc. But shouldn't capasitor prevent arc?
Screenshot_20191023_204548 (resized).jpg

#2366 1 year ago

I remember asking vid1900 this very question a few years ago. He said to go with what the manual says to do. My question was about a later system 11, I forget which one. Probably the same flipper mech as Funhouse has.
What I have adopted to use is nice, cleaned 1/8" and a 1/16" drill bits for feeler gauges. the 1/16" slides through the gap unrestricted, while the 1/8" does not fit through the gap.

#2367 1 year ago

This was Vid's and my PM exchange on this question.

Dozer1 ---- Vid, you always say that an EOS switch needs to be set to have 1/8" gap. That is .125". My system 11 manuals say to shoot for .062 which would be right at 1/`16". I know you have tons of experience with this stuff, so did you find it works better at 1/8" then the recommended 1/16"?

Vid1900 --- The 1/8 works good for most games, the sys11 you can indeed go 1/16.

1 week later
#2368 1 year ago

Hoping for some assistance here. Recently, my IMDN Pro upper left flipper has been giving me some problems. Initially when playing the flipper reacts exactly as it should, however, after approximately 7-10 games, I've noticed that it stops returning to it's normal position after flipping, and increasingly stops reacting all together, moving very little. If this has been covered, my apologies in advance. I have done some research on Pinside but haven't been able to find this issue. I have checked the EOS gap and seems to me to be fine.

I should mention, that the coil is warmer than the others in comparison after play.

Thanks in advance for any help/guidance!

EOS 1 (resized).jpgEOS 2 (resized).jpg
#2369 1 year ago

Rebuild it he flipper with new parts. The rebuild kit is like $25 from pinball life.

#2370 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Rebuild it he flipper with new parts. The rebuild kit is like $25 from pinball life.

Thanks @chuckwurt

Dumbass question. The upper left flipper is a mini flipper. Does this make a difference in which kit I order? The only one I can find is this one. https://www.pinballlife.com/new-style-flipper-rebuild-kit-left-and-right-flippers-for-sternsega.html

#2371 1 year ago
Quoted from Bigbossfan:

Thanks @chuckwurt
Dumbass question. The upper left flipper is a mini flipper. Does this make a difference in which kit I order? The only one I can find is this one. https://www.pinballlife.com/new-style-flipper-rebuild-kit-left-and-right-flippers-for-sternsega.html

The actual flipper bat itself is the only thing different. Everything else is the same.

#2372 1 year ago

First, just make sure you have a proper gap between the flipper bat and the bushing. Loosen the bat, and retighten it with a credit-card thickness gap. A lot of new games have been shipping with no gap at all. This does get worse over time until you start seeing the issues you are having.

1 week later
#2373 1 year ago

Noticed on my Iron Maiden, that the bumper pad is different than all my other Stern games. The base that fits through the hole is thinner and flat, so it installs much easier. But the pad itself is thinner and seems to move around a bit.

All my other Stern games have the pad with the cone shaped base, so I was thinking to replace them, unless Stern did this intentionally. Does anyone know?

Also, any tips on getting those cone shaped pads installed? Get it into that hole is near impossible.

Thanks!

1 week later
#2374 1 year ago

On my Williams flash, since it is a 3-flipper machine the lower right flipper has a multi-layer switch that is riveted together. My question is not around adjustments but around cleaning. I thought I read somewhere that switches can’t be thrown into an ultrasonic as it will get the pads between the leaves wet and that will ruin them. What do you do to clean the switches?

#2375 1 year ago
Quoted from mark532011:

On my Williams flash, since it is a 3-flipper machine the lower right flipper has a multi-layer switch that is riveted together. My question is not around adjustments but around cleaning. I thought I read somewhere that switches can’t be thrown into an ultrasonic as it will get the pads between the leaves wet and that will ruin them. What do you do to clean the switches?

Gold plated contacts just need to be wiped clean.
Old tungsten contacts have to be filed.

You can put them in a tumbler if you want, it wont hurt them.

You can also remove the rivets, polish the copper and re-rivet them with a tool or press, or just bolt the stack back together

#2376 1 year ago

Ok, thwnks

1 month later
#2377 1 year ago

I ordered the kit that Vid suggested for my Flash Gordon. I am confused about the switch or switches to use. Here are the flippers before I rebuilt them right, left and upper right. Will someone tell me what switches I need to order?

Thanks,

Brad

DE9943C3-6C17-4017-A615-76077368FD64_1_105_c (resized).jpeg380CA53C-4ABC-4638-B177-6E4D42D81C62_1_105_c (resized).jpeg5A7190B9-6FCF-46A5-A4F6-99713D5C8DE4_1_105_c (resized).jpeg
1 week later
#2378 1 year ago

Does anyone know where these two nylon washers go on an Embryon flipper rebuild?

B3F7106B-3FF2-4866-8CE8-55476CBF58F0 (resized).jpeg
1 week later
#2379 1 year ago
Quoted from dluth:

Does anyone know where these two nylon washers go on an Embryon flipper rebuild?[quoted image]

They insert in the solenoid bracket that the plunger extends out of. The last post , second picrure.

#2380 1 year ago
Quoted from chad:

They insert in the solenoid bracket that the plunger extends out of. The last post , second picrure.

Thanks - so here, between the coil and the bracket?
3737F3CA-C718-41B2-A6CC-00CDE96E8D88 (resized).jpeg

#2381 1 year ago

.

#2382 1 year ago

.

#2383 1 year ago

Next one over , furthest from the coil.

#2385 1 year ago

Dumb question. Or maybe not.

I am doing the WPC flipper upgrade to my Stellar Wars.

Overall it's pretty straightforward but I don have one question. When removing the "nail stud" that used to secure the old flipper button in place there are of course holes in the playfield. It looks like one of these holes it directly in the path of the ball when it rolls along the flipper. This will make the ball bounce when it runs over it.

Seems to me the solution is to reuse that one "nail stud" and just cut it short so it doesn't protrude below the bottom of the playfield.

Good fix or not?

#2386 1 year ago

Should be fine. When I converted my Pokerino I left all the nail studs in and just cut them off.

#2387 1 year ago
Quoted from yancy:

Should be fine. When I converted my Pokerino I left all the nail studs in and just cut them off.

I ended up just leaving them out. Turns out the hole was closer to the bat than I thought so it doesn't affect the ball at all. Game plays so much nicer now.

#2388 1 year ago

Next flipper related question.

I see Vid wrote a guide on updating the old Bally linear mechs to WPC. I would love to do this to my Spectrum but I really don't think there is enough room for the base plates since Spectrum has about 80 million lamp sockets.

Has anyone done this with success on their Spectrum?

2 weeks later
#2389 1 year ago

Sega Lost World, left flipper goes up then comes back down immediately with flipper button pushed in. This continues for a couple of minutes then seems to correct itself. So electronic and not mechanical I assume. Rather than tearing stuff apart and guessing, I thought I would go to the experts.

#2390 1 year ago
Quoted from rwarren28806:

Sega Lost World, left flipper goes up then comes back down immediately with flipper button pushed in. This continues for a couple of minutes then seems to correct itself. So electronic and not mechanical I assume. Rather than tearing stuff apart and guessing, I thought I would go to the experts.

Check and clean your flipper switches. Sounds like it's losing power. Make sure there is constant contact when pressing the flipper button. I'd also make sure all your solder joints look good, coils and switches . If this doesn't work hopefully someone with better expertise will chime in.

#2391 1 year ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

Check and clean your flipper switches. Sounds like it's losing power. Make sure there is constant contact when pressing the flipper button. I'd also make sure all your solder joints look good, coils and switches . If this doesn't work hopefully someone with better expertise will chime in.

Fixed. Someone changed the flipper button to one that was longer. He had to bend the switches to fit. Replaced it, as I fortunately had extras, straightened out the switches and it now works as it should.

#2392 1 year ago
Quoted from rwarren28806:

Fixed. Someone changed the flipper button to one that was longer. He had to bend the switches to fit. Replaced it, as I fortunately had extras, straightened out the switches and it now works as it should.

Congrats. Thx for the follow up.

1 week later
#2393 1 year ago

Funhouse WMS sys 11 wiring question. My rear left flipper is only getting low voltage and is extremely weak. I opened her up up and found this loose wire (I assume this is meant be soldered to the yellow capacitor pack but I could be wrong). I don’t want to blow up my board...any help is appreciated. Thanks! - m

1237C0F8-405A-4197-A661-9017A9313488 (resized).jpeg
#2394 1 year ago

I have a judge dredd I’ve rebuilt a few times. Assuming the flippers are properly rebuilt (vertical gap is correct, etc), where would I go next for flipper coils that get real hot and weak after a handful of games ?

#2395 1 year ago
Quoted from cocomonkeh:

I have a judge dredd I’ve rebuilt a few times. Assuming the flippers are properly rebuilt (vertical gap is correct, etc), where would I go next for flipper coils that get real hot and weak after a handful of games ?

EOS switch.

1 month later
#2396 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Nope, that's the wrong mech.
Read the first 4 pages of this guide if you want to know why, or just order the stuff below .
You need this mech (get one Left, one Right):
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=172
With the A-12111 coil stop.
With the FL11630 Coil
With this EOS Switch:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=262&parent=0 (email Terry to swap it into your mech, because there is no option in the menu).
You will also have to flip the coil around, because PBL mounts them backwards with the solder terminals next to the Coil Stop (a big no-no).
-
Now your Comet will be in pinball flipper heaven.

Hi vid1900,

Would you mind updating post 1179 for future Space Shuttle owner flipper rebuilders? The link to the EOS switch is dead. Thanks.

#2397 1 year ago

Uhmmmm, you should probably read up on this thread.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wheres-vid1900
But I as well as lots of folks miss Vids update's. I am waiting on him to finish his thread on repopulating PF's.

#2398 1 year ago
Quoted from heni1977:

Uhmmmm, you should probably read up on this thread.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wheres-vid1900
But I as well as lots of folks miss Vids update's. I am waiting on him to finish his thread on repopulating PF's.

Ha. Thanks man. I ended up getting some advice from Terry at pinball life and placed my order.

#2399 1 year ago

Those are some great folks at PBL!!

#2400 1 year ago
Quoted from Radius118:

Next flipper related question.
I see Vid wrote a guide on updating the old Bally linear mechs to WPC. I would love to do this to my Spectrum but I really don't think there is enough room for the base plates since Spectrum has about 80 million lamp sockets.
Has anyone done this with success on their Spectrum?

Here is a picture of my Spectrum with the mod done, haven't even put the flipper bats in yet!

I upgrade all the games at the Ottawa Pinball Arcade to Fliptronic style, but sub in the normally closed high voltage EOS and add the capacitor, using an 11630 coil. Works amazingly well on every Classic Bally and Classic Stern, and on Gottliebs and Classic Williams I use an SFL-19-400/30-750 coil.

You may have to move the wiring harness and maybe the odd socket, some games are tight, like the upper left flipper on Power Play. I had to trim the back of the grommet the link stops on so the playfield could go back down, there's maybe 1/32" to spare... and all 6 flippers on Black Hole was a task.

Spectrum was relatively easy by comparison. Squeezing 555 wedge LED's in all the sockets however? My hands looked like I'd been fishing through a bag of razor blades and needles for a week...

20200401_153628 (resized).jpg
There are 2606 posts in this topic. You are on page 48 of 53.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside