(Topic ID: 18292)

VID's Guide to Upgrading/Rebuilding Flippers


By vid1900

7 years ago



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#2101 1 year ago
Quoted from sohchx:

Does anyone happen to have a parts list for rebuilding this Flipper Power Supply??
https://ksarcade.net/williams-flipper-power-supply-system-9-11-c-9939.html

What game?

The schematic will show the needed parts, usually on the Power Wiring page of the manual

#2102 1 year ago

I am still a true beginner here. Any help greatly appreciated. My WW left flipper has no strength when activated. The flippers doesnt separate the eos really by the coil. It moves ok by hand. What should me next steps be?

20180819_150857 (resized).jpg20180819_150947 (resized).jpg20180819_150958 (resized).jpg
#2103 1 year ago

I'm getting ready to rebuild flippers on Pinbot that I own. I'll be keeping with current coil set up of FL 23\600 30/2600 50V. I'm replacing coil stop, plunger assembly, return spring, and switches. Right now there is a capacitor across EOS switch and coil and it was my understanding that they were only used on upgraded flipper coils that began with F-14. Should I replace during rebuild or eliminate?

image (resized).jpeg
#2104 1 year ago
Quoted from pinned_1104:

I'm getting ready to rebuild flippers on Pinbot that I own. I'll be keeping with current coil set up of FL 23\600 30/2600 50V. I'm replacing coil stop, plunger assembly, return spring, and switches. Right now there is a capacitor across EOS switch and coil and it was my understanding that they were only used on upgraded flipper coils that began with F-14. Should I replace during rebuild or eliminate?
[quoted image]

I always replace them.

#2105 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

System 11 owners update part 2:
You will note that your new "Fliptronic" arms have spring tabs on them. Never again will they suffer with conical springs.
[quoted image]

just bought a rebuild kit from PBL and unfortunately it does not have a spring tab on them.

#2106 1 year ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

just bought a rebuild kit from PBL and unfortunately it does not have a spring tab on them.

It still shows them on the picture:

0292-0493 (resized).jpg

They probably just mis-packed the order. Give them a call and Terri will send you them the same day.

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=983&parent=172

#2107 1 year ago
Quoted from TBatti:

My WW left flipper has no strength when activated. The flippers doesnt separate the eos really by the coil. It moves ok by hand. What should me next steps be?

That EOS switch looks terrible.

File it to clean metal and set it so when the coil is plunged, you have an 1/8" gap.

(The EOS looks like it's getting thin anyway, if it were mine, I'd rebuild the entire flipper, get rid of that compression spring, replace EOS with fresh...)

Your cab switch looks pretty close to EOL, so you might replace that too.

The reasoning is that you've got a $2k machine, it makes sense to put $40 into it and make the game play better than new.

#2108 1 year ago
Quoted from pinned_1104:

Right now there is a capacitor across EOS switch and coil and it was my understanding that they were only used on upgraded flipper coils that began with F-14. Should I replace during rebuild or eliminate?

Some Sorcerers and Space Shuttles had caps across the EOS, so Williams was experimenting on the cap idea even before it became standard.

#2109 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

It still shows them on the picture:
[quoted image]
They probably just mis-packed the order. Give them a call and Terri will send you them the same day.
https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=983&parent=172

I ordered the kit for FH, the one with the cap:
https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=980

None on those :S

#2110 1 year ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

I ordered the kit for FH, the one with the cap:
https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=980
None on those :S

That's the wrong kit.

No matter what Williams game you have, if you see conical springs, you know you know you are on the wrong page.

#2111 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

That EOS switch looks terrible.
File it to clean metal and set it so when the coil is plunged, you have an 1/8" gap.
(The EOS looks like it's getting thin anyway, if it were mine, I'd rebuild the entire flipper, get rid of that compression spring, replace EOS with fresh...)
Your cab switch looks pretty close to EOL, so you might replace that too.
The reasoning is that you've got a $2k machine, it makes sense to put $40 into it and make the game play better than new.

Thank you. Get rid of compression spring and replace it with what?

#2112 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

That's the wrong kit.
No matter what Williams game you have, if you see conical springs, you know you know you are on the wrong page.

Terry has it listed as funhouse.
I wonder if it's just a recycled photo that's incorrect.

#2113 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Terry has it listed as funhouse.
I wonder if it's just a recycled photo that's incorrect.

You don't necessarily want the "right" kit for your game.

You want to upgrade to the ultimate flipper kit with the extension springs.

Read the first page of this guide to see why.

#2114 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

You don't necessarily want the "right" kit for your game.
You want to upgrade to the ultimate flipper kit with the extension springs.
Read the first page of this guide to see why.

Ah, I see what you are saying.

Throw away the anemic conical spring and modernize with the newer, side pull spring setup for much faster flipper response.

#2115 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

That's the wrong kit.
No matter what Williams game you have, if you see conical springs, you know you know you are on the wrong page.

i guess it will do for now, maybe worth putting a clear "buy fliptronic rebuild kit" with additional cap on the side (for dummies like me) in your pinned post thanks!

#2116 1 year ago

Vid, any idea what the proper stroke length (tip to tip) of a system 6/7 flipper should be? I thought I had fully rebuilt my Alien Poker but then I played the one at pinburgh and they were much shallower. Wondering if I'm missing something or if they had done that on purpose for difficulty.

#2117 1 year ago

All the flippers at pinburgh are setup shallow. The machines are intentionally set up difficult so don’t compare your machines to them.

#2118 1 year ago
Quoted from Black_Knight:

All the flippers at pinburgh are setup shallow. The machines are intentionally set up difficult so don’t compare your machines to them.

So they actually built in longer plungers just for that?

#2119 1 year ago

Thicker coil stops do the trick too.

An even easier thing to do is to setup the flippers flatter, or pointing down more. That would make them act like they don’t have the same range and you probably wouldn’t notice they were lower in that environment.

#2120 1 year ago
Quoted from Black_Knight:

Thicker coil stops do the trick too.
An even easier thing to do is to setup the flippers flatter, or pointing down more. That would make them act like they don’t have the same range and you probably wouldn’t notice they were lower in that environment.

These have the built in coil stops by default, unless papa has done the vid mod. And they seemed to be oriented the same. Just half an inch less throw

#2121 1 year ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

i guess it will do for now, maybe worth putting a clear "buy fliptronic rebuild kit" with additional cap on the side (for dummies like me) in your pinned post thanks!

That's what the entire 1st page of this thread is about.

NOT buying the kit made for your game, but instead buying the ultimate kit with the extension springs.

#2122 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

That EOS switch looks terrible.
File it to clean metal and set it so when the coil is plunged, you have an 1/8" gap.
(The EOS looks like it's getting thin anyway, if it were mine, I'd rebuild the entire flipper, get rid of that compression spring, replace EOS with fresh...)
Your cab switch looks pretty close to EOL, so you might replace that too.
The reasoning is that you've got a $2k machine, it makes sense to put $40 into it and make the game play better than new.

Thank you. I filed it down as a temp fix. I noticed one wore has been disconnected. I cannot tell from the manual wher either goes. If I touch it to the right side of the assembly the flipper kicks the other 2 spots or does not move very well at all. Can I do any damage by soldering it in the wrong spot?

20180823_210413 (resized).jpg
#2123 1 year ago
Quoted from TBatti:

Thank you. I filed it down as a temp fix. I noticed one wore has been disconnected. I cannot tell from the manual wher either goes.

One side of the EOS Switch connects to the center terminal of the coil.

The other side of the switch connects to the outside terminal of the coil that has the NON BANDED leg of the diode.

#2124 1 year ago

Thanks Vid, I just rebuilt the flippers on my DE Time Machine and they are super crisp, and the ball flies off them. I do need to go back and readjust my EOS switch, as it seemed that when I was getting the 1/8" EOS gap, I was getting very little positive contact at the closed state.

But my question is about one of my flippers refusing to stay in position. The right flipper, within a few games as crept up clockwise. I have it tightened up so hard I am worried about breaking my allen key. Any ideas ? It is almost like the momentum of the flip is moving it up. Maybe if I redo the EOS gap it will help, or maybe I should take the flipper off and rough up the shaft where it is attached to the pawl mechanism ?

Anyway thanks again for a source of advice and info.

#2125 1 year ago
Quoted from jaybeedee:

But my question is about one of my flippers refusing to stay in position. The right flipper, within a few games as crept up clockwise. I have it tightened up so hard I am worried about breaking my allen key. Any ideas ? It is almost like the momentum of the flip is moving it up. Maybe if I redo the EOS gap it will help, or maybe I should take the flipper off and rough up the shaft where it is attached to the pawl mechanism ?

Start with new flippers, because old games could have anything installed in them.

then make sure that, without flipper shaft installed, that the tension bolt can thread all the way into the pawl (sometimes there is junk in the threads).

#2126 1 year ago

Thanks Vid
I'll check the tension bolt. the flippers are original (even got the original Time Generator decal on them) and the right one was working well before.

#2127 1 year ago
Quoted from jaybeedee:

Thanks Vid
I'll check the tension bolt. the flippers are original (even got the original Time Generator decal on them) and the right one was working well before.

I have had some success sanding the flipper bat shafts with 80 grit sandpaper so that they are rough instead of polished.
This can make them grip a little better. And of course blue loctite on the allen screw.
It also helps if the allen wrench is new or ground down to a new area so that it fits as tight into the screwhead socket as it can.

1 week later
#2128 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

then make sure that, without flipper shaft installed, that the tension bolt can thread all the way into the pawl (sometimes there is junk in the threads).

Cheers Vid, I took it off and unscrewed the bolt right out, cleaned and threaded right in then started again and now it is locking properly.

So there's a couple of other things that are quite different since I rebuilt and I don't know if it is adjustments, or just differences in sizes between the original and the kit.

The backhand shots to the ramps used to be very reliable shots. Now they just don't seem to be achievable and my head hurts from trying to work out the physics! Do you think it would be different size in the coil stop limiting the rotation, or the EOS opening too late and the power staying strong through out the stroke ?

Also, I used to get the occasional airball off the posts on the playfield, but now the ball is going up the ramps and sometimes leaping the side of the ramp - I had one ball jump the right ramp and get stuck above the ramp plastic and under the glass.

#2129 1 year ago
Quoted from jaybeedee:

Cheers Vid, I took it off and unscrewed the bolt right out, cleaned and threaded right in then started again and now it is locking properly.
So there's a couple of other things that are quite different since I rebuilt and I don't know if it is adjustments, or just differences in sizes between the original and the kit.
The backhand shots to the ramps used to be very reliable shots. Now they just don't seem to be achievable and my head hurts from trying to work out the physics! Do you think it would be different size in the coil stop limiting the rotation, or the EOS opening too late and the power staying strong through out the stroke ?
Also, I used to get the occasional airball off the posts on the playfield, but now the ball is going up the ramps and sometimes leaping the side of the ramp - I had one ball jump the right ramp and get stuck above the ramp plastic and under the glass.

Different or new coil stops affect the flipper bat travel

Adjust your flipper angles to where you think the game plays best or at least intended by the designers.

Increase your playfield pitch to slow the game down as needed.

#2130 1 year ago
Quoted from jaybeedee:

The backhand shots to the ramps used to be very reliable shots. Now they just don't seem to be achievable and my head hurts from trying to work out the physics! Do you think it would be different size in the coil stop limiting the rotation, or the EOS opening too late and the power staying strong through out the stroke ?

It's probably just that your shot-timing is now off.

You had gotten used to the old one, now the slop free rebuild is "different"

You got used to letting the cradled ball roll back 4 milliseconds, then firing to backhand. With no slop, it might now be 1 millisecond.

#2131 1 year ago

Hi Vid, I’ve been measuring the resistance on the flipper coils of some pins I picked up recently. I’ve read that it’s generally recommended to replace a coil when it’s below 2.5 ohms. I noticed most flipper coils read 1.2-1.8 ohms while connected but read 27 ohms or more when disconnected. Some of the other types of coils under the playfield & in the relays will read 5 or more ohms while still connected.

My question is, do I need to disconnect the flipper coils each time I test them or is there a way to avoid having to do that?

Thanks!

#2132 1 year ago
Quoted from Pintor:

My question is, do I need to disconnect the flipper coils each time I test them or is there a way to avoid having to do that?

As your own experience has shown, you DO get different readings on a coil when it is still connected to the rest of the circuit.

Do you ALWAYS have to disconnect a coil to test it? No.....

As you work on more games, you get a **feel** for what a coil should read, even in circuit.

If one pop coil reads .2 and all the others 3.6, you know you have a problem.

So if you saw a .2 coil, you would certainly unsolder that coil and test again.

So if out of the circuit, you still have .2 ohms, you snip one leg of the coil's diode and test again.

If the coil now reads normally, you only have a bad diode (and a 2 cent fix).

If the coil still reads .2 ohms, even with the diode snipped out of the circuit, it's internally shorted - dead.

#2133 1 year ago

My Tom has a flipper that stays up for a fraction of a second after i press the button. The flipper were both rebuilt a few months ago and weren't doing that after rebuild. The game doesn't get played much at all, so it maybe has 40-50 plays since rebuild.

#2134 1 year ago
Quoted from Goalie:

My Tom has a flipper that stays up for a fraction of a second after i press the button. The flipper were both rebuilt a few months ago and weren't doing that after rebuild. The game doesn't get played much at all, so it maybe has 40-50 plays since rebuild.

Lift up on the flipper bat, there should be a credit card's thickness of vertical play - if not loosen the pawl and re-tighten with a credit card as a spacer.

The coil stop might be not square to the plunger. Loosen the stop, and REALLY press it into the coil as you tighten the mounting bolts.

The coil stop might be magnetized. Pull it out and see if it can pick up a small screw.

Check the plunger the same way.

Check that the return spring is not touching any wiring.

Check that the coil sleeve does not have any crud in it.

#2135 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

As you own experience has shown, you DO get different readings on a coil when it is still connected to the rest of the circuit.
Do you ALWAYS have to disconnect a coil to test it? No.....
As you work on more games, you get a **feel** for what a coil should read, even in circuit.
If one pop coil reads .2 and all the others 3.6, you know you have a problem.
So if you saw a .2 coil, you would certainly unsolder that coil and test again.
So if out of the circuit, you still have .2 ohms, you snip one leg of the coil's diode and test again.
If the coil now reads normally, you only have a bad diode (and a 2 cent fix).
If the coil still reads .2 ohms, even with the diode snipped out of the circuit, it's internally shorted - dead.

Awesome, That'll save me a lot of soldering. Thanks Vid!!

1 week later
#2136 1 year ago

Hey vid1900, I apologize if this has been mentioned before, I had trouble searching for it. This may not matter at all and I'm getting way too detail oriented. I'm not sure if there is any actual polarity involved here.

In your early Bally tutorial, you demonstrate the reverse of the coil direction, and you use this photo:

58d52836c6c825a09d2388f4d6bc3290f4fa8ec2.jpg

Upon re-assembly in my restoration, I'm looking at this photo I took of the original wiring of the flipper, as you can see here:

012718205634.jpg

I've reversed the coil orientation as you suggest. This was a NOS assembly, so Bally could easily have had it wired it slightly differently, though it did work prior to teardown

If I am reading this right, your two lugs on the EOS switch are attached to the middle and "bottom" lug of the coil in the photo. If you reverse the coil orientation on my photo, you would also be attaching the two lugs on the EOS to the middle and "bottom" lug, but the switch lugs would be connected the reverse of your coil lugs. Does that matter in any way?

#2137 1 year ago

^ The switch has no polarity.

Everything you do, MUST line up with the diode(s) on your flipper.

Up, down, bottom - don't worry about orientation, just worry about putting the wires back on the lugs using the diodes as your guide.

#2138 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

^ The switch has no polarity.
Everything you do, MUST line up with the diode(s) on your flipper.
Up, down, bottom - don't worry about orientation, just worry about putting the wires back on the lugs using the diodes as your guide.

Forgive me, but that would require that I know how to use the diodes as a guide.

It sounds like as long as the colors go back to the sides they were originally on, we are good, right? So in my photo, green stays on the same lug it was on before, and brown stays on the same lug (though the brown ones are interchangeable because the switch has no polarity). Right?

#2139 1 year ago
Quoted from jsa:

It sounds like as long as the colors go back to the sides they were originally on, we are good, right?

correct.

If you mix it up, you will know instantly when you blow the under playfield fuse, lol

1 week later
#2140 12 months ago

Question about flipper coil stop sizes vs flipper travel and use for right games.
Looking at PBL site shows 4 different coil stops for Williams.
Looking for info on what stop is what size and amount of flipper travel.
#A-8143 (Stop size is ??) = EM games and SS games from 1969 to 1979 ??
#A-10821 (Stop core size 6mm or 0.236) = 1980 to 1987 ??
#A-12111 (stop core size is 7 mm or 0.275) = Used on Williams/Bally games from 02/1988 to 04/1993.
#A-12390 (stop size is 8mm or 0.314) = Used on all Williams/Bally games from 08/1993 to 06/1999.
I'm assuming A-12390 has the longest stop so gives it the shortest flipper travel.

I am upgrading several older Williams system 4 to 7 games.
Ex: Gorgar, you would use stop #???? to keep original flipper travel. Or Black Knight, What stop should I use.

#2141 12 months ago
Quoted from arcademojo:

Question about flipper coil stop sizes vs flipper travel and use for right games.
Looking at PBL site shows 4 different coil stops.
Looking for info on what stop is what size and amount of flipper travel.
#A-8143 (Stop size is ??) = EM games
#A-10821 (Stop size is ??) = Laser Cue, Space Shuttle (some machines, but not all), Sorcerer, Comet, High Speed, Grand Lizard, Road Kings, Pinbot, Millionaire, F-14 Tomcat, Fire!, Fire! Champagne Edition, Big Guns, Space Station
#A-12111 (stop size is ??) = Used on Williams/Bally games from 02/1988 to 04/1993.
#A-12390 (stop size is ??) = Used on all Williams/Bally games from 08/1993 to 06/1999.
I'm assuming A-12390 has the longest stop so gives it the shortest flipper travel. What is the different sizes of A-12111 and A-10821?
I am upgrading several older Williams system 4 to 7 games.
Ex: Black Knight you would use stop #???? to keep original flipper travel.

PBR lists heights for the different stops on the detailed breakdowns of the flipper rebuild kits. eg. http://www.pbresource.com/KT-WFLIP05.html

A10821 protrudes 0.33" into sleeve
A12111 protrudes 0.37" into sleeve
A12390 protrudes 0.42" into sleeve

There's some other notes about flipper mechs around that era: http://www.pbresource.com/rebuildkit.html#baseplate

#2142 12 months ago
Quoted from ajfclark:

PBR lists heights for the different stops on the detailed breakdowns of the flipper rebuild kits. eg. http://www.pbresource.com/KT-WFLIP05.html
A10821 protrudes 0.33" into sleeve
A12111 protrudes 0.37" into sleeve
A12390 protrudes 0.42" into sleeve
There's some other notes about flipper mechs around that era: http://www.pbresource.com/rebuildkit.html#baseplate

Having investigated this recently, either I'm measuring incorrectly or these measurements are completely wrong. I tried every measurement I could think of and none matched up.

The one actually useful measurement though, I think, is the distance from the top of the stop (what the plunger rests against when engaged) and the near side of the vertical plate (what the coil rests against). This sounds like the dame thing pbr says, but..

Measuring this on some A-12111s (assuming I was sent the right part...), that measurement is 0.28".

The measurement on a pinball life repro system 7 base plate with the built in stop is 0.246". The height of the used plate in my black knight (no cupping that I can see) is 0.25".

Also important is the length of the plunger, which I wish I had info on, but I can't even trust stores to send me the right plunger matching their picture, let alone be sure they're reproduced matching original specs...

#2143 12 months ago
Quoted from ajfclark:

PBR lists heights for the different stops on the detailed breakdowns of the flipper rebuild kits. eg. http://www.pbresource.com/KT-WFLIP05.html
A10821 protrudes 0.33" into sleeve
A12111 protrudes 0.37" into sleeve
A12390 protrudes 0.42" into sleeve
There's some other notes about flipper mechs around that era: http://www.pbresource.com/rebuildkit.html#baseplate

A comparison from PBR and Marco.
PBR
A10821 protrudes 0.33" into sleeve
A12111 protrudes 0.37" into sleeve
A12390 protrudes 0.42" into sleeve

Marco
A-10821 Core height from bracket face is 6 mm or 0.236”
A-12111 Core height from bracket face is 7 mm or 0.275”
A-12390 Core height from bracket face is 8 mm or 0.314”

#2144 12 months ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Having investigated this recently, either I'm measuring incorrectly or these measurements are completely wrong. I tried every measurement I could think of and none matched up.

I just went and got some calipers out and I concur. Those measurements don't make sense as written. From the back of the bracket to the tip of the coil they do line up though. eg.
A-10821:
IMG_20180927_103141 (resized).jpg
A-12390:
IMG_20180927_103226 (resized).jpg

Unfortunately I don't have an A-12111 on hand.

#2145 12 months ago
Quoted from arcademojo:

PBR
A10821 protrudes 0.33" into sleeve
A12111 protrudes 0.37" into sleeve
A12390 protrudes 0.42" into sleeve

Marco
A-8143 Core height from bracket face is ? mm or ???
A10821 Core height from bracket face is 6 mm or 0.236”
A12111 Core height from bracket face is 7 mm or 0.275”
A12390 Core height from bracket face is 8 mm or 0.314”

The A-10821 I have (from PBR) is closer to .250" or 6.35mm. Being a 1/4" makes more sense to me as these things were made to an imperial measure, not metric.
The A-12390 I have is closer to .330" or 8.5mm, also shipped from PBR. I don't work with imperial stuff enough to know if .330" in close to a standard size? 21/64"?
I do not have a A-12111 here to measure unfortunately.

The bracket on the short stop is ~0.08" thick,the tall stop is marginally thicker ~0.09".

0.25 (short stop) + 0.08 (thinner bracket) = 0.33
0.33 (long stop) + 0.09 (thicker bracket) = 0.42

Those numbers line up with PBRs, but from the back of the bracket to the stop, not protrusion into sleeve.

#2146 12 months ago

double post

#2147 12 months ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Also important is the length of the plunger, which I wish I had info on, but I can't even trust stores to send me the right plunger matching their picture, let alone be sure they're reproduced matching original specs...

So, there are different size plungers also? And I'm assuming since different travel lengths each one uses a different link also?

#2148 12 months ago
Quoted from arcademojo:

So, there are different size plungers also? And I'm assuming since different travel lengths each one uses a different link also?

I'm not sure about earlier williams but Pinball 2000 used different length plungers iirc. The unsurety is what concerns me.

Quoted from ajfclark:

From the back of the bracket to the tip of the coil they do line up though. eg.

For some reason I couldn't get those to work out for me, but I don't trust them anyway. No guarantee they'll always use the same method of attaching the cores.

#2149 12 months ago
Quoted from zacaj:

I'm not sure about earlier williams but Pinball 2000 used different length plungers iirc. The unsurety is what concerns me.

I think you are right that only Pinball 2000 used the different size plungers.
So looks like the following for matching games to original flipper travel when converting over to new style.
I would use:
A-10821 coil stop for System 3 to 7
A-12111 coil stop for System 9 to 11

Last concern would be the new vs old style links. I'm guessing I need the old style with use of A-10821 since it has the longest travel.

#2150 12 months ago
Quoted from zacaj:

For some reason I couldn't get those to work out for me, but I don't trust them anyway. No guarantee they'll always use the same method of attaching the cores.

It's very awkward TBH, and probably not that accurate as you need to get one side of the caliper completely off the riveted butt and the other on the coil stop, so it's not measuring in a direct line between two flat surfaces and any change in the bracket will change the measurement. Better than measuring directly between the coil stop face and the riveted butt though I guess and it probably is good enough to distinguish between unlabelled parts though.

Holding something flat against the coil stop and measuring between that and the bracket seems like a much more sensible idea, less prone to error, and should correlate to measuring the stop before it's fixed to the bracket, etc, etc.

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$ 12.00
Cabinet - Other
Siegecraft Electronics
Wanted
$ 125.00
Cabinet - Toppers
Sparky Pinball
From: $ 19.50
Apparel - Unisex
ArcadeMade
$ 16.00
$ 50.00
$ 40.00
Lighting - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 17.00
$ 24.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
pinballmod
$ 10.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Gweem's Mods
From: $ 9.99
$ 117.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
$ 8.50
Lighting - Led
Pinball Haus
From: $ 16.95
$ 79.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
From: $ 9.00
From: $ 6.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Medisinyl Mods
From: $ 220.00
Hey modders!
Your shop name here
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