(Topic ID: 18292)

VID's Guide to Upgrading/Rebuilding Flippers


By vid1900

7 years ago



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#1301 3 years ago
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

What are the black "bent" washers in this pic? These were also included in my system 11 rebuild, but on an F14 they weren't installed, so I think they were extra?
(I know this is a Bally kit, I stole your pic)

Flip_Rebuild_(resized).jpg

Those are spring washers.

They normally get installed between the coil and the coil mounting loop to help put some pressure on the coil to prevent it from moving around too much (at least, that's my understanding of its purpose).

Quoted from dozer1:

They are spring washers that are used on the plunger side of the coil (not the coil stop side) in some apps. Someone correct me if I am wrong, but they are not ever used on any system 11 flippers that I know of.

I just checked a parts manual, and they are absent from the diagram. However--including them shouldn't hurt anything. Personally, I would opt to install them.

#1302 3 years ago
Quoted from gabegabegabe:

Here is a picture of my Embryon lower right flipper mech.

IMAG0142.jpg

Quoted from vid1900:

Both of those switches have the plastic pusher on the tips.
Probably best to just use the Bally parts in this instance.

Vid,
Did you mean for him to use the Bally style EOS switches (as shown in the Embryon lower flipper photo) instead of a superior Williams EOS switch or did you mean for him to stick with the entire Bally linear flipper mechanism. I've got a Bally Vector with linear flippers and it uses the same EOS switch for the lower flippers as does Embryon.

This is my first attempt at rebuilding flippers and after spending way too many hours this weekend trying to rebuild the crappy linear flippers (that still don't work right) I've decided to upgrade to the older style flippers per your instructions in this post (pg 11). The only reason I didn't try this approach right off the bat is that the underside of the playfield is so crowded on this game that I worried that there might be some clashes with wiring and other mechanisms. After wasting so much time trying to make these POS work I'm willing to try to shoe-horn the better design in.

Thanks for all your help!

#1303 3 years ago
Quoted from GSones:

Did you mean for him to use the Bally style EOS switches (as shown in the Embryon lower flipper photo) instead of a superior Williams EOS switch or did you mean for him to stick with the entire Bally linear flipper mechanism.

I meant that it would be easier to just use the Bally switches, than jerry rig up some replacement.

Quoted from GSones:

The only reason I didn't try this approach right off the bat is that the underside of the playfield is so crowded on this game that I worried that there might be some clashes with wiring and other mechanisms. After wasting so much time trying to make these POS work I'm willing to try to shoe-horn the better design in.

Once you de-build one, you are a pro, and it becomes a breeze.

#1304 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

I meant that it would be easier to just use the Bally switches, than jerry rig up some replacement.

Once you de-build one, you be a pro, and it becomes a breeze.

As always, thanks Vid. I'm kind of looking forward to the process (and getting better flippers at the end). I also snuck a peek at the pics HEP posted of his recent Vector restoration (thanks Chris).

#1305 3 years ago

I did the linear flipper upgrade on my Escape from the Lost World. Not as fast as WPC flippers but this game with its wearing playfield and thin molded plastics doesn't need that much speed. Now I can consistently make the left ramp without excessive rattle-outs. We rigged up a custom spring tab from a gun barrel bracket and replaced the lower Allen nut with a set screw. This allows both the screw and spring to clear the EOS switch. All I had to tweak was the return spring to weaken it a bit. Great mod!

image_(resized).jpg

#1306 3 years ago

I've got a bit of an obscure game that I was doing a rebuild on. This is an Allied Leisure flipper assembly.

Since the gen1 flipper was unavailable, I substituted a gen2 flipper and bushing. I also replaced the EOS switch with a NOS one.

When the flipper is at rest, everything appears to be in the correct position. However, when the plunger is pulled in, it makes contact with with coil stop, but the cam never touches the leaf of the EOS switch since there is about a 1/16" gap between the cam and the switch leaf.

The obvious thing to do would probably be to bend the leafs and backing blades. However, it seems odd that I would have to do this with NOS parts. So, before I do that, is there something else that I'm missing?

ALI-PinballPartsCatalogApril1976-flipper-assembly_(resized).jpg20160402182732071_(resized).jpg20160402182809337_(resized).jpg20160402183406595_(resized).jpg20160402182522047_(resized).jpg20160402182644316_(resized).jpg20160402182855263_(resized).jpg20160402183333167_(resized).jpg20160402182926811_(resized).jpg20160402183741498_(resized).jpg20160402182957133_(resized).jpg20160402183151075_(resized).jpg20160402183041970_(resized).jpg

#1307 3 years ago

It all looks OK.

You could maybe remove that last spacer on the switch stack and put it on top of the stack, otherwise bend the leafs.

#1308 3 years ago

Looks like the switch could use a bend.

IMG_0455_(resized).jpg

Also looks like your flippers could use some new decals. Got any plans to repro the originals???

If not, these would probably work: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/ZAC001

#1309 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

It all looks OK.
You could maybe remove that last spacer on the switch stack and put it on top of the stack, otherwise bend the leafs.

Good idea

Quoted from balzofsteel:

Looks like the switch could use a bend.
IMG_0455_(resized).jpg
Also looks like your flippers could use some new decals. Got any plans to repro the originals???
If not, these would probably work: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/ZAC001

Thanks for the photo--I'm surpised to see that much bend in them.

For the decals, I was going to scan the ones on the original flippers, redraw, then print on some sort of semi-gloss/satin paper that might be a close match to the finish of the original decals. Then lightly spray the back of the paper with 3M general purpose adhesive and stick them to the flippers.

#1310 3 years ago
Quoted from brandsilence:

3. There is a small amount of play even when the flippers are in their default position, so if i'm trying to execute a bounce pass the flipper gives a bit and absorbs some of that momentum.

I had this on my EBD flipper. It was the paw that needed replaced as the part of the paw that the flipper shaft went into and you could tighten, that was turning just a bit and wasn't securely welded to the base plate of the paw. I hope that makes sense. Very hard to explain.

#1311 3 years ago

Just started doing the upgrade to my Road Kings and it seems it has an older style flipper mech bracket. No room for the capacitor (hence no cap) or to drill the spring hole. Going to order some brackets and grommets from PL. Must be an early system 11 thing. I noticed the pf service position is system 7 style. Sure makes for a fun time.

Also noticed on my Popeye the spring hole is vertically the same but smack in the middle instead of to the left. Weird. Anyway.... Def makes a difference to ditch the conical springs.

Quoted from vid1900:

System 11 owners update:
Unless someone really took care of your game before you, you have the awful, conical spring that rides around the outside of the plunger. This spring is usually weak, broken and corroded. It is simply a poor design choice as it chews up the Plunger Link and sometimes the Plunger itself.
No doubt you have noticed the "snap" of the newer Fliptronic games and now you can have their superior snappiness too.
You will need to drill a 1/16" (1.5mm) hole in the Capacitor Bracket. Don't drill through the Capacitor itself (you removed it in the last step, yes?).
Measure from the picture below. Use a punch to keep the drill bit from walking around. Once you drill the hole, file off any sharp edges on both the front and back.
BRACKET-HOLE.jpg

#1312 3 years ago
Quoted from balzofsteel:

Looks like the switch could use a bend.
IMG_0455_(resized).jpg
Also looks like your flippers could use some new decals. Got any plans to repro the originals???
If not, these would probably work: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/ZAC001

I just noticed the support blades on my NOS switches are stacked differently.

One should be placed under the lower/shorter leaf. Where does the other blade go? On top or below the longer leaf?

20160403221502111_(resized).jpg

20160403221450057_(resized).jpg

#1313 3 years ago

The switches in the game are stacked weird - single support blade in the middle of the stack with an insulator on either side.

The gen2 spares have the support inside the short blade.

#1314 3 years ago
Quoted from balzofsteel:

The switches in the game are stacked weird - single support blade in the middle of the stack with an insulator on either side.
The gen2 spares have the support inside the short blade.

I ended up fiddling and adjusting the switch some more, and I think I came up with an orientation that seemed logical:

20160404244157566_(resized).jpg20160404244239324_(resized).jpg

And then since I couldn't use the giant (#10?) screw to hold the cam to the flipper shaft since it was too large, I substituted a #8 1/2" screw and #8 washer.

20160404245005749_(resized).jpg

#1315 3 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

...
For the decals, I was going to scan the ones on the original flippers, redraw, then print on some sort of semi-gloss/satin paper that might be a close match to the finish of the original decals. Then lightly spray the back of the paper with 3M general purpose adhesive and stick them to the flippers.

... while redrawing, perhaps draw in the gen1 screw and washer??

(lazy me got the Zacky stickers from Marco. They look pretty good and with no other ALI or ZZZ pins around to compare - nobody knows they don't belong.)

IMG_0456_(resized).jpg

#1316 3 years ago
Quoted from balzofsteel:

... while redrawing, perhaps draw in the gen1 screw and washer??

Heh, I was considering that at first, or even drilling a shallow hole with a forstner bit to install the screw and washer. But, I think the sticker with the red dots will be enough.

The decals you found are an interesting alternative.

#1317 3 years ago

Just a little Public Service Announcement for anyone who might be reading through this and contemplating whether or not to rebuild the flippers on a game they have...

I have rebuilt the flippers on both of my tables (1976 Williams Space Odyssey and 1980 Stern Flight 2000). One of my good friends got his hands on a 1978 Williams Lucky Seven last year and I kept trying to convince him to buy a flipper rebuild kit for it. Finally, he ordered one last week. I went over last night and did the work for him.

You should have seen his face once we were done and he played a couple games with his new flippers in place. That slow, loopy gameplay was gone. Instead, the ball was going everywhere and the whole table played at a much faster pace. He was shocked at what a huge difference it made. We hit his spinner with some silicone lubricant and that thing was absolutely singing afterward with the new ball speeds going.

If you own an older table and haven't done this, give it a try. You will NOT be disappointed! Best $50.00 you can spend.

Thanks Vid, as always for these great guides!

#1318 3 years ago

Hey Vid,

So I'm pretty much a newbie here.. I have a flash pinball and I want to upgrade my flippers to the fliptronics.. 1 would I be able too? and 2 since it has 3 flippers 2 on the right do I need to request a different switch from PBL?

#1319 3 years ago
Quoted from HeatedCane:

I have a flash pinball and I want to upgrade my flippers to the fliptronics.. 1 would I be able too? and 2 since it has 3 flippers 2 on the right do I need to request a different switch from PBL?

Yes, you can upgrade easily.

I'm pretty sure that the RH side has a EOS/upper flipper switch combo stack.

Post a pic and I can verify.

#1320 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Yes, you can upgrade easily.
I'm pretty sure that the RH side has a EOS/upper flipper switch combo stack.
Post a pic and I can verify.

thanks, when I get home ill take the pic and post it!

#1321 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Yes, you can upgrade easily.
I'm pretty sure that the RH side has a EOS/upper flipper switch combo stack.
Post a pic and I can verify.

image_(resized).jpeg

image_(resized).jpeg

#1322 3 years ago

You can see that the RH EOS Stack has had parts swapped off of it before.

Not a lot of contact material left, so probably best to replace.

So LH side, you just need standard high voltage EOS, RH you need standard high voltage EOS + a high voltage normally open switch.

This is what would have been on the RH side originally:

wll-a8160_(resized).jpg

So you can build your own stack from parts (and then have the extra leaf spring finger on the EOS), or just buy the above part from PBR .

Viperwrk did your entire job here with nice detail:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/top-flipper-on-williams-flash-not-working-properly?tu=viperrwk

#1323 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

You can see that the RH EOS Stack has had parts swapped off of it before.
Not a lot of contact material left, so probably best to replace.
So LH side, you just need standard high voltage EOS, RH you need standard high voltage EOS + a high voltage normally open switch.
This is what would have been on the RH side originally:
wll-a8160_(resized).jpg
So you can build your own stack from parts (and then have the extra leaf spring finger on the EOS), or just buy the above part from PBR .
Viperwrk did your entire job here with nice detail:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/top-flipper-on-williams-flash-not-working-properly?tu=viperrwk

Wow thank you so much!! Full of detail and help!!

#1324 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

You can see that the RH EOS Stack has had parts swapped off of it before.
Not a lot of contact material left, so probably best to replace.
So LH side, you just need standard high voltage EOS, RH you need standard high voltage EOS + a high voltage normally open switch.
This is what would have been on the RH side originally:
wll-a8160_(resized).jpg
So you can build your own stack from parts (and then have the extra leaf spring finger on the EOS), or just buy the above part from PBR .
Viperwrk did your entire job here with nice detail:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/top-flipper-on-williams-flash-not-working-properly?tu=viperrwk

Vid one last question.. when ordering the new fliptronics flipper how do I know which coil stop to get for my game? sorry for the rookie questions

#1325 3 years ago
Quoted from HeatedCane:

Vid one last question.. when ordering the new fliptronics flipper how do I know which coil stop to get for my game? sorry for the rookie questions

A-12111

#1326 3 years ago

INSTALLING WILLIAMS WPC FLIPPERS IN A CLASSIC BALLY or CLASSIC STERN

=================================================

Why the hell would anyone do something like that???

$22 future rebuilds, longer lasting EOS Switches because of Parallel Wound Coils, longer lasting Coil Stops, longer lasting links, no compression springs, indefinite flipper shaft positioning, or the only thing you had with you on a service call was WPC flipper mechs.

-

I went out on a service call to fix a Xenon that has been in constant service for 35 years. The clubhouse owner said the flippers were sticking in the up position, even if the power was shut off. This tells you that the problem is mechanical - flippers need a rebuild.

I had serviced this machine 100000 times, so I knew that the crappy Linear flipper mechs had been changed to the much superior Standard flipper mechs (how to do this yourself: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers/page/11#post-1855100 ).

I brought a standard Bally rebuild kit ( http://www.pbresource.com/rebuildkit.html#KT-BFLIP03) with me to do the repair.

When I lifted the playfield I saw, to my horror, that someone had switched the game back to Linear flipper mechs! As a bonus, they drove oversized wood screws through the coil stop baseplate holes, completely stripping out the baseplate. Normally if the base plate is stripped on a Classic Bally, you can switch the left and right plates to use the fresh holes (Bally are universal plates), but this trick had apparently been done already. If I was back in the shop, I could drill out the holes, tap them for the next size up bolt, and get things working again, but I was 40 minutes from my shop. The only solution I had with me was WPC flipper mechs....

----

In this job I used:

On left, one right, one left, WPC flipper mechs: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=172

F-11630 Coils: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=8

A-12111 Coil Stops: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=273

High Voltage EOS Switches: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=262

Titan Competition Flipper Rubbers: https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=33&product_id=52

----

You need to order right and left flipper mechs because Williams are NOT reversible.

You want the F-11630 coils because they are perfect replacements for the old Bally coils. Yes, if you "do the math" the F-11630s are stronger coils than the Bally, but the Bally is only running at 43V, not the Williams 50V. The lower voltage nicely balances out the stronger coil.

You want the A-12111 coils stops so the flippers still have the same range of motion as the old mechs.

You want the High Voltage EOS Switches so they don't get destroyed by the spark arc. The new Parallel coils will cause less damage to the EOS Switches, but will still be too damaging to low voltage switches.

#1327 3 years ago

The new Parallel coils are wired differently than the old Bally Serial ones.

The new Parallel coil has the Power lug on the left. You know it because it has both the tiny Hold wire and the thick Flipper wire.

(The old coil Power wires were not even soldered! Nice work bozo.)

1_(resized).jpg
PARALLEL_WOUND_COIL_(resized).jpg

#1328 3 years ago

It's always best to do all the bench work on a bench, rather than dripping solder all over the machine.

Wire up the EOS Switches to the proper coil lugs.

Remember this is a Parallel coil, so the Power lug (the one with both a fine and heavy coil wire) does NOT get connected to the EOS Switch.

The lugs on this coil were smaller than the Bally coil, so I wrapped the EOS Switch wires BELOW the lug eyelets. This leaves the eyelets open for the Power and Return wires. Having open eyelets makes soldering under a playfield much easier!

Remember that the coils are mounted with the Lugs AWAY from the coil stop!

2_(resized).jpg

#1329 3 years ago

Stick a #2 screwdriver or flipper shaft in the mech and set up the EOS Switch gap.

1000x easier to do on the bench!

Details here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers/page/3#post-773655

3_(resized).jpg

#1330 3 years ago

Before you put the playfield mounting screws into the new flipper base plates, you need to be sure that the Flipper Bushing stays in the center of the playfield hole.

You won't be able to hold it by hand; the force of the screws making new holes will drag the Bushing in some random direction.

There were a bunch of light tubes that are supposed to go behind the Xenon drop targets, that were just lying in the bottom of the cab. I used one of them as they fit snugly in the playfield holes.

After I screwed down the baseplates, I twisted out the light tubes.

Had the tubes not fit snugly, I would have had to EVENLY put a few wraps of electrical tape around them.

-

The baseplates can be spun in any direction to avoid inserts or other obstructions under the playfield. Both baseplates don't have to be at the same angle or aligned with each other.

Unscrew any wiring harness clips that are blocking the new base plate. You can re-attach them latter.

4_(resized).jpg

#1331 3 years ago

You want to reinstall actual Bally Flippers because Williams bats are thinner and the ball will hop when coming down the return lane.

The worst part about Bally flippers is that any previous installation will make a memory dimple that will keep you from changing the alignment of the flippers.

If you try to move the flipper's resting point down a little, the set screw finds the old dimple and pops it back into the old position. Even if you swap the left and right flippers, some pawls still find the old holes. It sucks.

The new Williams pawls will grip the flipper higher on the shaft, above the old holes.

You can freely change the flipper alignment, now or years from now.

6_(resized).jpg

#1332 3 years ago

Your new mech now has the coil mounted 180° around from the old coil, so don't let yourself get confused on the wiring.

You might have to snip a few nylon zip ties to have enough slack in the wire to reach the new coils.

The Power wire chains power from one flipper to the other, so it is often doubled up on the Left flipper.

The Power wire goes to the "empty lug" (the one with a heavy and fine coil wire leading to it).

The Return wire goes to the outside lug that already has an EOS Switch wire on it.

You can always check for 43VDC with your meter to find the Power wire should you find a game with the flipper mechs missing, odd colored wires spliced in, or whatever other mess you encounter.

7_(resized).jpg

#1333 3 years ago

Work the mechs by hand and make sure all the wires clear the moving parts.

Zip tie all the wires out of harm's way.

If you find that the flippers are a little too strong, simply open up the EOS Switch gap by another 1/16 of an inch or so and you will find the power drops substantially.

If you find the flippers are weak, you know you don't have the EOS Switch set properly. The contacts need to STRONGLY close towards each other.

Here was the final installation.

8_(resized).jpg

The game played perfectly. I wondered if the coils, even at 43V might be a little too strong (requiring me to open the EOS Switch gap), but it was perfect with the 1/8" gap right out of the gate.

Although the game still had it's fat Bally bats, it had that snappy, surgical Williams tightness. No Bally slop at all.

I put the new thinner Titan rubbers on the bats, as the old rubbers were thicker and made for a little ball hop on the return lanes.

In pencil, I noted the changes in the manual, so any tech working on the game in the future, will understand exactly what was done.

#1334 3 years ago

Quit making me spend money!

#1335 3 years ago
Quoted from cichlid:

Quit making me spend money!

I'm not saying you need or even should do this.

It's just an option that might make sense in a really high use location, or if you are a pin tech who got to the job unprepared.

#1336 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

...
It's just an option that might make sense in a really high use location, or if you are a pin tech who got to the job unprepared.

.... or if some hack replaced your Old Stern flippers with Bally linear junk.

#1337 3 years ago

I am wondering if someone has dimensions of the newer style flipper plates? I would like to convert my time warp flippers into modern style. I am unsure if they would fit. I need the dimensions of flipper shaft hole to two outsides edges as well so I can make a paper template to fit it Before I buy the sets from pinball life.

#1338 3 years ago

You can fit WPC flipper plates in a Timewarp, no problem; many have done it.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers/page/3#post-773606

#1339 3 years ago

thanks, was your example from a TW or Disco Fever?

I have tried searching this thread for the answer but if switching to the WPC plates, what coil stop is correct? How do you determine this? Is it the same coil stop # that would go into the stock flipper assembly?

#1340 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

UPDATING OLD SS FLIPPERS:
=
=
=
=
Ok, so you've got an old game like Disco Fever and you want to update to the modern style flipper mechs. This will REALLY tighten up the feel of the game and eliminate that 'bounce back' feel.
First label your wires so you know where your 28v and ground is.
Sys6-flipper.jpg

I know this is off topic as far as your new posts but when installing the fliptronics in my flash do I need to drill in new holes to mount the ne wflipper assemblies? (ordered them just waiting for them to arrive today) if so whats the best way to go about it?

#1341 3 years ago
Quoted from Langless28:

thanks, was your example from a TW or Disco Fever?

It was TimeWarp. Disco Fever is sacred and can not be modified.

Quoted from Langless28:

I have tried searching this thread for the answer but if switching to the WPC plates, what coil stop is correct?

A-12111

Quoted from Langless28:

How do you determine this?

You want the flipper to have the same range of motion as it originally did.

So you have to find the matching Coil Stop.

BUT your old Coil Stop and plunger will be worn and have MUCH more range of motion than when new. So when you are finding the matching parts, you have to use all BRAND NEW parts of the old mech.

Quoted from Langless28:

Is it the same coil stop # that would go into the stock flipper assembly?

Not necessarily.

Williams changed the coil stops in the 90s to make it harder to catch and cradle the ball.

#1342 3 years ago
Quoted from HeatedCane:

I know this is off topic as far as your new posts but when installing the fliptronics in my flash do I need to drill in new holes to mount the ne wflipper assemblies? (

Yes, you will need new holes for Flash.

Quoted from HeatedCane:

If so whats the best way to go about it?

The hole in the playfield where the Flipper Bushing goes through is larger than the Bushing.

You need to center the bushing, then drill the holes.

Before you put the playfield mounting screws into the new flipper base plates, you need to be sure that the Flipper Bushing stays in the center of the playfield hole.

You won't be able to hold it by hand; the force of the screws making new holes will drag the Bushing in some random direction.

You could use 3 shims, 120* apart to center it in the hole, or use a piece of plastic tubing, like I did in this example:

4_(resized).jpg

#1343 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Yes, you will need new holes for Flash.

The hole in the playfield where the Flipper Bushing goes through is larger than the Bushing.
You need to center the bushing, then drill the holes.
Before you put the playfield mounting screws into the new flipper base plates, you need to be sure that the Flipper Bushing stays in the center of the playfield hole.
You won't be able to hold it by hand; the force of the screws making new holes will drag the Bushing in some random direction.
You could use 3 shims, 120* apart to center it in the hole, or use a piece of plastic tubing, like I did in this example:

4_(resized).jpg

Yea I' will definitely go the rubber tube route.. and s always thank you for going above and beyond! thanks for the help!

#1344 3 years ago

I have some plungers that have what looks to be a black coating on them. Is it OK put these in a drill and buff them up with Scotch Bright and polish them with Mother's mag cleaner until they are shiny silver? Is the coating just a build up of the black dust, or an original coating to reduce oxidation?

#1345 3 years ago

Plungers should not be black. Some flipper shoes are, but not plungers.

#1346 3 years ago
Quoted from Sheprd:

I have some plungers that have what looks to be a black coating on them. Is it OK put these in a drill and buff them up with Scotch Bright and polish them with Mother's mag cleaner until they are shiny silver? Is the coating just a build up of the black dust, or an original coating to reduce oxidation?

Probably time to replace your flipper plungers.

Some Bally plungers have a Black Oxide finish when new, but if you can tell that the plunger used to be bright metal, and has oxidized to black, it's easier and cheaper to replace them.

You never know what parts, from what source or brand, the last 10 owners of the game have installed.

A complete flipper rebuild will bring you back to better than new performance, for very little money and time.

#1347 3 years ago

Is there a parallel equivalent to this coil: SG1-23-850-DC?

#1348 3 years ago
Quoted from fosaisu:

Is there a parallel equivalent to this coil: SG1-23-850-DC?

Usually, only flipper coils with dual winding are available in Parallel.

#1349 3 years ago

On WPC era games, Some have white opto interupters and some have black. It seems like all the white ones have a spring steel piece and the black ones do not. Any thoughts on the spring steel piece? Thanks.

#1350 3 years ago
Quoted from Starwriter:

On WPC era games, Some have white opto interupters and some have black. It seems like all the white ones have a spring steel piece and the black ones do not. Any thoughts on the spring steel piece? Thanks.

The blue steel spring works with either the white or black interrupters.

Some people feel that the black interrupters are more responsive because of the opacity of the plastic compared to the white.

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