Those are spring washers.

They normally get installed between the coil and the coil mounting loop to help put some pressure on the coil to prevent it from moving around too much (at least, that's my understanding of its purpose).

I just checked a parts manual, and they are absent from the diagram. However--including them shouldn't hurt anything. Personally, I would opt to install them.

Vid,
Did you mean for him to use the Bally style EOS switches (as shown in the Embryon lower flipper photo) instead of a superior Williams EOS switch or did you mean for him to stick with the entire Bally linear flipper mechanism. I've got a Bally Vector with linear flippers and it uses the same EOS switch for the lower flippers as does Embryon.

This is my first attempt at rebuilding flippers and after spending way too many hours this weekend trying to rebuild the crappy linear flippers (that still don't work right) I've decided to upgrade to the older style flippers per your instructions in this post (pg 11). The only reason I didn't try this approach right off the bat is that the underside of the playfield is so crowded on this game that I worried that there might be some clashes with wiring and other mechanisms. After wasting so much time trying to make these POS work I'm willing to try to shoe-horn the better design in.

Thanks for all your help!

As always, thanks Vid. I'm kind of looking forward to the process (and getting better flippers at the end). I also snuck a peek at the pics HEP posted of his recent Vector restoration (thanks Chris).

I did the linear flipper upgrade on my Escape from the Lost World. Not as fast as WPC flippers but this game with its wearing playfield and thin molded plastics doesn't need that much speed. Now I can consistently make the left ramp without excessive rattle-outs. We rigged up a custom spring tab from a gun barrel bracket and replaced the lower Allen nut with a set screw. This allows both the screw and spring to clear the EOS switch. All I had to tweak was the return spring to weaken it a bit. Great mod!

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I've got a bit of an obscure game that I was doing a rebuild on. This is an Allied Leisure flipper assembly.

Since the gen1 flipper was unavailable, I substituted a gen2 flipper and bushing. I also replaced the EOS switch with a NOS one.

When the flipper is at rest, everything appears to be in the correct position. However, when the plunger is pulled in, it makes contact with with coil stop, but the cam never touches the leaf of the EOS switch since there is about a 1/16" gap between the cam and the switch leaf.

The obvious thing to do would probably be to bend the leafs and backing blades. However, it seems odd that I would have to do this with NOS parts. So, before I do that, is there something else that I'm missing?

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Looks like the switch could use a bend.

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Also looks like your flippers could use some new decals. Got any plans to repro the originals???

If not, these would probably work: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/ZAC001

Good idea

Thanks for the photo--I'm surpised to see that much bend in them.

For the decals, I was going to scan the ones on the original flippers, redraw, then print on some sort of semi-gloss/satin paper that might be a close match to the finish of the original decals. Then lightly spray the back of the paper with 3M general purpose adhesive and stick them to the flippers.

I had this on my EBD flipper. It was the paw that needed replaced as the part of the paw that the flipper shaft went into and you could tighten, that was turning just a bit and wasn't securely welded to the base plate of the paw. I hope that makes sense. Very hard to explain.

Just started doing the upgrade to my Road Kings and it seems it has an older style flipper mech bracket. No room for the capacitor (hence no cap) or to drill the spring hole. Going to order some brackets and grommets from PL. Must be an early system 11 thing. I noticed the pf service position is system 7 style. Sure makes for a fun time.

Also noticed on my Popeye the spring hole is vertically the same but smack in the middle instead of to the left. Weird. Anyway.... Def makes a difference to ditch the conical springs.

I just noticed the support blades on my NOS switches are stacked differently.

One should be placed under the lower/shorter leaf. Where does the other blade go? On top or below the longer leaf?

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The switches in the game are stacked weird - single support blade in the middle of the stack with an insulator on either side.

The gen2 spares have the support inside the short blade.

I ended up fiddling and adjusting the switch some more, and I think I came up with an orientation that seemed logical:

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And then since I couldn't use the giant (#10?) screw to hold the cam to the flipper shaft since it was too large, I substituted a #8 1/2" screw and #8 washer.

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... while redrawing, perhaps draw in the gen1 screw and washer??

(lazy me got the Zacky stickers from Marco. They look pretty good and with no other ALI or ZZZ pins around to compare - nobody knows they don't belong.)

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Heh, I was considering that at first, or even drilling a shallow hole with a forstner bit to install the screw and washer. But, I think the sticker with the red dots will be enough.

The decals you found are an interesting alternative.

Just a little Public Service Announcement for anyone who might be reading through this and contemplating whether or not to rebuild the flippers on a game they have...

I have rebuilt the flippers on both of my tables (1976 Williams Space Odyssey and 1980 Stern Flight 2000). One of my good friends got his hands on a 1978 Williams Lucky Seven last year and I kept trying to convince him to buy a flipper rebuild kit for it. Finally, he ordered one last week. I went over last night and did the work for him.

You should have seen his face once we were done and he played a couple games with his new flippers in place. That slow, loopy gameplay was gone. Instead, the ball was going everywhere and the whole table played at a much faster pace. He was shocked at what a huge difference it made. We hit his spinner with some silicone lubricant and that thing was absolutely singing afterward with the new ball speeds going.

If you own an older table and haven't done this, give it a try. You will NOT be disappointed! Best $50.00 you can spend.

Thanks Vid, as always for these great guides!

Hey Vid,

So I'm pretty much a newbie here.. I have a flash pinball and I want to upgrade my flippers to the fliptronics.. 1 would I be able too? and 2 since it has 3 flippers 2 on the right do I need to request a different switch from PBL?

thanks, when I get home ill take the pic and post it!

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Vid one last question.. when ordering the new fliptronics flipper how do I know which coil stop to get for my game? sorry for the rookie questions

Quit making me spend money!

.... or if some hack replaced your Old Stern flippers with Bally linear junk.

I am wondering if someone has dimensions of the newer style flipper plates? I would like to convert my time warp flippers into modern style. I am unsure if they would fit. I need the dimensions of flipper shaft hole to two outsides edges as well so I can make a paper template to fit it Before I buy the sets from pinball life.

thanks, was your example from a TW or Disco Fever?

I have tried searching this thread for the answer but if switching to the WPC plates, what coil stop is correct? How do you determine this? Is it the same coil stop # that would go into the stock flipper assembly?

I know this is off topic as far as your new posts but when installing the fliptronics in my flash do I need to drill in new holes to mount the ne wflipper assemblies? (ordered them just waiting for them to arrive today) if so whats the best way to go about it?

Yea I' will definitely go the rubber tube route.. and s always thank you for going above and beyond! thanks for the help!

I have some plungers that have what looks to be a black coating on them. Is it OK put these in a drill and buff them up with Scotch Bright and polish them with Mother's mag cleaner until they are shiny silver? Is the coating just a build up of the black dust, or an original coating to reduce oxidation?

Plungers should not be black. Some flipper shoes are, but not plungers.

Is there a parallel equivalent to this coil: SG1-23-850-DC?

On WPC era games, Some have white opto interupters and some have black. It seems like all the white ones have a spring steel piece and the black ones do not. Any thoughts on the spring steel piece? Thanks.