Black Knight
Williams, 1980
Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure
Williams, 1993Quoted from mof:I'm wondering what's going on here. Is the switch too short?
There is probably a little play to move the switch up a little.
The "rubber" boot, was it really rubber? Shrink tubing is usually kind of slippery, rubber kind of sticky.....
Quoted from chuckwurt:What happens of i put the coil sleeve in backwards?
The coil works in either direction, so if you put the sleeve in backwards, you flip the coil too.
The flanged part of the sleeve goes around the coil stop.
Quoted from vid1900:Or if you don't care about how "stock" it looks, you could do a WPC flipper mech :
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers/page/3#post-773606
I had read that post before and had Terry make me up a couple. I don't care what it looks like. I wanted a replacement that was snappy and I could get parts to rebuild it if necessary. One question though, is the SFL-19-400/30-750 coil series? This would mean the EOS switch needs to be N.O. right? Thanks.
Quoted from slgerber:One question though, is the SFL-19-400/30-750 coil series? This would mean the EOS switch needs to be N.O. right? Thanks.
You need a Normally Closed, High Voltage EOS Switch.
Quoted from vid1900:Terry at PL will actually make the entire assembly for you for only $36:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=172
Make sure you email him and tell him you need the SFL 19/400 - 30/750 coil and a high voltage EOS switch, as they are not a standard pull down menu choice.
Yes I ordered these yesterday. I was asking because of what I read on Marcos site.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=19-400%2F30-750
Quoted from slgerber:Yes I ordered these yesterday. I was asking because of what I read on Marcos site.
Strange, I'm not sure where they copied all that from.
You want Normally Closed, High Voltage (big silver tungsten contacts), EOS Switch.
Yeah, that's just straight up WRONG. The hold winding is *bypassed* by the Normally CLOSED EOS as the switch is the Path of Least Resistance. When the coil fires and opens the EOS switch, current is forced through the hold coil, which holds the flipper and also keeps the pull coil from burning out.
Quoted from vid1900:There is probably a little play to move the switch up a little.
The "rubber" boot, was it really rubber? Shrink tubing is usually kind of slippery, rubber kind of sticky.....
Are you saying that's just shrink tubing on there, and possibly the reason this is happening is that it's old and dry? Try putting new shrink tubing on there and see if the switch stops catching?
-mof
I've noticed many Data East games don't use lock nuts on the back side of the flipper plates. Have you seen any negative effects from this? Ironically the only trouble I've had with bushing screws falling out is on Williams games.
Quoted from Crash:I've noticed many Data East games don't use lock nuts on the back side of the flipper plates. Have you seen any negative effects from this? Ironically the only trouble I've had with bushing screws falling out is on Williams games.
The threading tolerance was pretty loose with those Williams.
I'd just put the backing nuts on the DE anyway - cheaper than a playfield repair.
-
Classic Bally coil stops also were threaded poorly and often loosen or strip out completely. Backer nuts or even a plate for those.
I just ordered Williams coil FL24-600/30-2600 from Marco, but I noticed after checking all the different sites nobody has these except Marco. Is this a hard to find coil? If so is there a replacement? It's on a Laser Cue system 7, 50 volt coils
I know we have talked about this before, but I am getting a bounce to my flipper after each time I engage and it seems to be costing me some power. I have a new eos, bat, bushing, coil, and coil stop. Oh yeah and a new plunger. It's an early stern SS. Any way to eliminate that bounce? All three other flippers don't bounce at all.
So it's about time to rebuild my flippers on JD as they all seem a little weak, especially the lower right as that ones seems to have a slight delay. Anyway, 4 flippers on this bad boy and I'm kinda dreading getting all 4 rebuilt and lined up properly. The upper flippers are also a lot shorter and I do not see a rebuild kit for these upper flippers on Pinball Life just a kit for the lower flippers? The upper flippers also do not have the pin holes to align the flipper so what is the best way to align the upper flippers? Any of you JD owners out there have some good tips before I dig into this project? With new flippers this game is gonna be so much better but just want to do it right. Thanks all.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Rebuilding my fire! Flippers. My coil has this tab that will not let me install the coil as you suggested. Should I just get it the way it came factory, or is it that big of a deal that I need a new could that I can flip around per your instructions?
It's better to put it the other way (reduces impact on the diodes/lugs), but not a huge issue since they're not getting beat on as much in a home environment. You could also just cut off the tab.
Quoted from Lethal_Inc:The upper flippers also do not have the pin holes to align the flipper so what is the best way to align the upper flippers?
The holes aren't always that accurate anyways. Just line the flipper bat up with the guide that feeds the ball to it. The ball should transition smoothly to the flipper w/o a hop.
Quoted from terryb:It's better to put it the other way (reduces impact on the diodes/lugs), but not a huge issue since they're not getting beat on as much in a home environment. You could also just cut off the tab.
Cool thanks. I just left it how they were.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Rebuilding my fire! Flippers. My coil has this tab that will not let me install the coil as you suggested. Should I just get it the way it came factory, or is it that big of a deal that I need a new could that I can flip around per your instructions?
Recently did my Big Guns flips and drilled/filed the plate opposite the coil stop to let the tab fit and it worked like a charm.
Quoted from chuckwurt:My coil has this tab that will not let me install the coil as you suggested. Should I just get it the way it came factory, or is it that big of a deal that I need a new could that I can flip around per your instructions?
Use a Dremel or rat-tail file and make a quick notch in the coil bracket.
If you have neither, just cut the nylon pin off.
Vid- question regarding system 11 flippers and the conical spring. I just picked up a Taxi with the modern return spring but it is hooked around the zip tie holding resistor. Is this right / wrong / good / bad?
Assuming it is ideal to drill the small hole and make it permanent. But is this better than conical spring? I'm a little nervous to try to drill (I'm still pretty new to all this). Do I just want to use a metal-specific bit and clamp the piece down in a vice? Any specific bit that works?
Quoted from Elicash:I just picked up a Taxi with the modern return spring but it is hooked around the zip tie holding resistor. Is this right / wrong / good / bad?
That is a lazy way to do it, but it's better than nothing.
It probably is putting a little more tension on the spring, by stretching it farther; so you may get just a little less flipper power.
Quoted from Elicash:Assuming it is ideal to drill the small hole and make it permanent. But is this better than conical spring?
Yes, conical springs break and scar the plunger.
Quoted from Elicash:I'm a little nervous to try to drill (I'm still pretty new to all this). Do I just want to use a metal-specific bit and clamp the piece down in a vice? Any specific bit that works?
The bracket metal is very soft.
Any sharp drill bit will bore through it in seconds.
Don't slip and drill through the coil!
Replacing the flipper bushings as part of a rebuild. The three screws that hold the bushing in are TIGHT. Broke one... how normal is this?
T2 machine with a lot of miles on it.
Not normal, too tight obviously. Use thread locker, blue 245, on all 3 screws and tighten snug. In the process of rebuilding my flippers on JD right now and the flipper bushing can easily be replaced when you remove the whole assembly from the game and rebuild/replace parts right in front of you. I find it hardest to correctly align the flipper bats once your done, so damn touchy.
Quoted from aobrien5:how do you determine if this type of crank needs to be replaced (Harlem Globetrotters)? They look ok without knowing what to look for.
Kinda like when you buy a used car, the first thing you do is change the oil......many collectors rebuild the flippers before they do anything else.
You can measure the length of the plunger and the coil stop with a pair of calipers. (somewhere I posted many of the lengths when new, but I can't find it).
You can manually grab the flipper bat and check for slop or play in the link.
On an old Bally, usually the fiber links have a ton of play because the holes have elongated. The cranks will outlast 5 sets of links.
Dear Vid,
I'm installing new flipper assemblies on a 1982 Williams Defender.
I ran into a problem I've come across several times. You are a big proponent of installing all new parts.
Sometimes, I CANNOT get the new sleeves into the old solenoids. Any idea why? When I hold the old and new one end to end touching, I swear I see the newer one is 1/4 of a human hair thicker...
I'm spending 20 minutes cleaning up the old sleeve and re-installing it.
thanks,
mof
I've got a box of 200 those sleeves, so I can try a few.
Naturally there is some variation and I can usually find a fit in just a few tries.
On the road I obviously can't take 200 sleeves with me, so I have a drill bit in my kit that **just** barely reams out the solenoids so any sleeve slides right in.
Quoted from Plumonium:What is the replacement to a PinBot AE-23-800-04 for the newer Williams parallel coil?
I'm guessing FL-11630
The factory flipper coil was actually a FL- 23/600-30/2600 so the Parallel coil would be FL-11630
Not sure why, but might bottom right flipper is a lot weaker than the bottom left. Same coil, all new parts. Any ideas what my issue is?
Quoted from chuckwurt:Not sure why, but might bottom right flipper is a lot weaker than the bottom left. Same coil, all new parts. Any ideas what my issue is?
I'll guess EOS switch.
Using a set of allagator clips, jumper the EOS switch closed.
Don't hold the flipper too long, just test if it now has full strength.
Quoted from vid1900:I'll guess EOS switch.
Using a set of allagator clips, jumper the EOS switch closed.
Don't hold the flipper too long, just test if it now has full strength.
Okay not sure how to do this. I put one end of the aligator clip on what and the other end on what? Game on and start a game first?
Quoted from chuckwurt:Okay. I did this, turned the game on, nothing happened.
image.jpeg
Move the left hand clip upwards (behind the tungsten contact point), otherwise it is going to get whacked by the pawl arm.
Start a game, see if the flipper is strong.
That does look like a kink, but nothing there actually no pinch in the wire. I moved the left clip up next to the contact. Started a game, nothing. I shouldn't press the button right? The flipper should engage in its own right?
Quoted from vid1900:Start a game, press the flipper button - the flipper should kick like a mule
Okay yeah. Strong as shit when I do that.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Strong as shit
Got to start eating more fruits man...
Quoted from vid1900:OK, so now you KNOW that the EOS switch is maladjusted.
Clean it completely and then tension BOTH leaves so they spring tightly towards each other.
That was it! Nice and strong now. Thanks Vid!
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Sana'a
Sugarcreek, OH
Montreal, QC