Venturing rebuilding my Surf Champ, first Goetlieb EM rebuild BUT I hammered the pin out of the old assembly, and trying to rebuild it with the new plunger but I cannot for the life of me hammer the pin back in...? Is there some kind of technic? Can I use grease or oil to make this easier?

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Vid, getting ready for my second rebuild (Johnny mnemonic). I saw a thread debating the quality of different flipper parts suppliers. On my recent WH20 rebuild, the threaded shaft of the pawl snapped when I was tightening the bat down. May have just been a fluke, but-

My question: who do recommend for parts on WPC rebuilds? Specifically, does someone like PBR produce a better quality? I don't mind paying a little more if there is any difference.

Thanks for the help.

I tried a couple things today on the machine. Jumpered the EOS switch: No better result. Tested the lugs: all six measuring 24.5 vdc. Had a tiny bit of play up and down on the flipper bat shaft--good. Had a bit of play with the coil in frame--not good.
I used the extra washer springs to push the coil more toward the coil stop.

Also noticed I tried to raise the flipper up a little on the playfield. So I lowered it to just below (1mm) straight along the in-lane line, and I can get the ball up the ramp. It's tough, but was able to do it consistently.

All right guys. Having a little issue after my rebuild and I need some help because I cant figure out what is causing this.

When I fire the flipper, it occasionally "sticks" a little as it returns to the rested position. It doesn't seem to do it with the power off when I lift the flipper manually with my finger. I rebuilt whole thing with all new parts (including new coil). Also tightened the pawl assembly with the little gap tool on top of playfield b/w the flipper bat.. Almost seems like the coil is staying slightly magnetized? Or could it be the pawl assembly? At first I thought I didn't tighten down the flipper bat enough, but I have confirmed that is not the issue, very tight.

Here is a video of the issue. Sorry, I filmed it upside down, but you will still see the issue:

Thanks for any help.

What is on the plunger? It looks black.

I will remove coil stop and try to clean out and report back.

No, just shadows and reflections off the metal.

I don't know how Vid feels about this, but maybe the spring does not have enough tension? You could shorten the length of the spring, and that would increase spring tension to pull the flipper down fully.
It could also be an alignment issue; if the assembly bracket has a little twist in it, I would recommend looking at that first. Make sure the coil is alligned properly.

Looking at marco's kit for my Fire!. the EOS switches look to be standard and don't have the extra arm stabilizing the one leaf. Can anyone confirm that these EOS switches do or do not have the extra arm?

Hey guys, thanks for the help on the gummed up flipper issue a couple posts up. I removed coil stop, sleeve, and coil. I blew inside coil. I replaced coil sleeve (even though the other one was about 2 weeks old). I also really polished up the plunger. the combination of these things did the trick. so I still don't know why, but I think Vid was right, may have been getting crudded up somewhere.

Thanks for the help as always.

Cool. Thanks. I'll get those as well.

I finally got around to doing a flipper rebuild. It has been a good learning experience so far, but I can't say its been fun. I'm sure most of it is because its my first time, but I have had to deal with a variety of confusing issues. But after reviewing this thread again, I think I have everything sorted out. Everything is on hold until I can make a run to get a screw, so it is a good time to post my progress and make sure I have it right. The old switch assembly had 2 different sized screws, and one won't work on the new switch. Despite having 400 different screws in my pile I don't have the right size.

This is a rebuild of the hacked up left flipper on my Bally Bon Vorage, as I showed in post 998.

There is a limit on the number of pics I can upload so I am redoing this and will leave out the obvious stuff.

Labeled the wires. This went fine.

Unsoldered the wires and took everything apart. The soldering was a mess as someone felt the need to wrap the wires around the posts and make a giant blob on all of the terminals. This went fine.

I got those cleaned up. This went fine.

Cleaned up the parts to be reused. This went fine.

Had to deal with that sheared off screw in the bracket. Was able to grab on the threads on the back with some wire nips and unthread it out.

The PBR rebuild kit I got is the KT-BFLIP-01. All the pieces in the kit:

KT-BFLIP-01-Flipper-Rebuild-Kit-2.jpg

All that went OK, then it was time to reassemble. This got confusing because my parts don't look much like the ones in the guide. There are no diodes on mine anywhere. Plus there is all this talk of the coil being "backwards". I double-checked the other flipper assembly and it definitely looks the opposite of what Vid says it should be. Also, it clearly matches the picture in the Bally parts catalog.

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I tried some different ways to assemble it. This is the way it is shown in the manual and how it was on the machine.

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This is the way it should go according to what I have read in the guide.

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Having that spring washer in that position, as described in a post a few pages back, didn't seem to fit too well. This seemed to work a lot better.

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This is the final assembly. With that spring washer in there and the brackets squeezed tight, the coil is pretty snug. It can still move a little bit, but it is far tighter than it was when I took it out. It was pretty loose before. The new switch is shown here, waiting for the second screw I need to go out and buy.

assembly-per-vid-modified.jpg

So my main question is, does my final assembly look good? It still seems strange to do it opposite what is shown in the manual, but one thing I have learned is not to mess with Vid, so I take his word this is the better way to go.

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You have to have seen one of the greatest movies ever made to get this last pic

That's Richard Kiel and it's actually a Space Invaders pin, isn't it? The name of the movie eludes me though.

Edit: movie was "So Fine".....definitely NOT one of the greatest movies ever made.

No to both counts. It has something to do with Vid.

Another hint....the movie has a pinball in it too. But you don't want to mess with that ball

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Oh crap I know the movie but I just can't think of the name.

Phantasm.

Saw it 437 times.

First job was theater projectionist.

OK, I think this is right....

flipper assy vid.jpg

THAT'S IT.

Hey Vid, pardon me if you already covered this previously in this thread but, I just installed all new flipper parts on my WCS, also new coils, everything from the roota to the toota. I still am not gettiing that snap I feel I should get from new flipper parts and coils. I also used the little gap tool when tightening down the flipper bats to the pawl and feel I got the gap between the flipper bushing and the flipper bat pretty damn perfect. Was I supposed to tighten the flipper piston and link to the pawl also? Thanks.

I mean that do not have the power or "snap" I would expect from all brand new flipper parts. When I manually move them they feel perfect, also I used the gap tool when I tightened down the flipper bats so the gap seems good. I'm not sure what else to check.

Make sure the wiring is correct. Despite the fact that I labeled everything and was as careful as I could be, I got confused when I reversed the coil and got the wiring wrong, and had the same symptom. Once I figured that our and rewired it, I had "snap". With Vid's help above I got both flippers rebuilt, and they are plenty strong and snappy.

Thanks xsvtoys. I'll doublecheck the wiring in the manual when I get home.

Quick question: Is the proper flipper EOS gap on Em's the same as on SS machines? 1/8" Or what is the recommended gap for Em's?

Jack

Does anyone have a pic of how the wiring goes to the flipper coils on WCS ? I can't find a clear pic anywhere and the manual does not have any diagram of the wiring to the flipper coils. This is what I have right now. Pretty sure the right flipper is the top picture.

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Thanks Vid. Should the power wire be on the banded side of the diode or middle lug or unbanded side of the diodes?

wcs flippers.jpg

Can't see the diodes in the top pic but they both appear to be wired properly at first glance

Thanks to all that helped! Much appreciated. I think maybe I'll adjust the gap on the flipper bats and see if that helps. The flippers aren't bad but they are missing just a little bit of power. Last time I did a flipper rebuild was on my Judge Dredd and when they were done, the power was unreal. I felt like I could have smashed the drop targets in front of the subway. Anyway, I must have something slightly off.

Hey Vid, could you step me how to test the voltage at the flipper coils? I tried with my multi meter but I am getting wierd readings and am not sure if I have it set right. Should I be pressing the flipper button once the meter is clipped onto the lugs? Thanks in advance. Here's a pic of my meter and the test clips I rigged up for it.

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If you look at the scematics, the Red wires (Red-Blu and Red-Gry) carry voltage. Test between those wires and ground.

I started a new thread with my flipper rebuild issues. Could someone take a look and help me out?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flipper-rebuild-nightmare#post-2649049

OK I've rebuilt my share of flippers but this one is new to me.Look closely at the EOS switch.

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I have a 1976 Williams Space Odyssey with no gang switch. Is this normal? Game seems to function ok right now.

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Ok Vid, here we go. Need advice on rebuilding or replacing my sharpshooter flippers. The left flipper burnt up and the right one is on it's last leg. I know coils are available but I don't know think th coil stops are. I read somewhere WPC flippers might work. Thoughts? These are 24vcoils 20150907_174654.jpg
This is the one that actually works, there is no diode on this one but there is on the other one.20150907_174807.jpg mushroomed coil stop, the other side is the same.20150907_174833.jpg plunger is mushroomed as well.

So, I replaced the flipper switch in this Getaway. I'm fine for a week. Now, the left flipper frequently sticks in the up position. I finally found the culprit (as I've had this issue on other games) -- the little crank arm is getting stuck on the the switch when the flipper is up all the way.

So I *thought* I had solved it by putting a little black rubber "bootie" on the crank (save the old ones !)... nope.

I'm wondering what's going on here. Is the switch too short?

How does this work for 100+ plays and then not now... (I had no black "bootie" on there for those 100 plays)

-mof

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What happens of i put the coil sleeve in backwards?