(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

By vid1900

11 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

143 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #7 Playfield damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #8 Insert damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #34 How to sand your new inserts flat. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #35 Cleaning old glue out of the insert holes. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)


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#7056 3 years ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Yes, a non-fancy Brother, under $300 on Amazon. I busted it on this job!

Brothers laser printers are great, though I only have a B/W one. Looking to perhaps get a one for color but those cartridges are expensive!

2 months later
#7124 3 years ago

As a newish pinball owner (about a year and a half) I’ve found your guides invaluable. I hope you pop in more than once in a while and continue to share your knowledge.

1 month later
#7191 3 years ago
Quoted from krankin:

I'm looking for advice on whether or not to get a laser printer. I have no experience with waterslides at this point but am planning to restore my Blackout in the future and will need to print some.
Family needs a new printer regardless, but I'm trying to determine if there's a consumer grade laser printer I can buy that works well or if I should just find a local hobby store / print shop when I need decals printed.
Anyone have successful experience with consumer grade laser printers and decals? Recommended models?
-K

For black and white the Brothers printers are great for home use. When I used to go to Kinkos all of them had Brothers printers for their work behind the register. They told me they are work horses. I have three of them for my home business.

That said, I used them for waterslide decals and they were fine but I was having trouble with them having extra “noise” in the background. Maybe it needs a new drum? So I went to my local Staples and had them print on the decal paper I supplied. They came out great and were even blacker than I could get with the Brothers. Cost about 13 cents per sheet.

In the future I might go for a Brothers color laser printer but the cost of toner is high.

2 weeks later
#7201 3 years ago

I used MinWax stain to match some of my playfield. Used a combination of Clear and Ipswich Pine in several light coats.

9 months later
#7683 2 years ago
Quoted from joshmc:

Hi folks,
I’m prepping the playfield to do the first clearcoat before I start using the airbrush. I haven’t removed the electronics from the underside of the playfield. It’s too tedious and I’m not confident I could put everything back where it belongs. I’ve plugged up the holes with cotton balls (see attached pic), however I’m starting to wonder if this is a bad idea. The purpose of this is to stop the clearcoat from damaging the electronics. I still have the old inserts. Perhaps that would be a better idea?[quoted image]

I would leave (glue) the inserts in and would also tape any exposed holes from beneath to prevent 2pac from seeping. I also plug the GI bulbs holes with foam earplugs. Tape plastic all around the underside of the playfield to protect from overspray.

3 months later
#7801 2 years ago

I tried spraying the spraymax into a cup and used glass droppers to clear the inserts and had the same bubble problem. After several variations and failed attempts I finally bought 2pac and hardener, mixed it per instructions and dripped it onto the inserts. No bubbles. This will be my go to method for filling imperfections.

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