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(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

By vid1900

11 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

143 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #6 Removing mylar and the adhesive left behind. Don't clear over it. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #7 Playfield damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #8 Insert damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #15 Removing inserts, step one - cut around it so you don't remove artwork with the insert. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #23 Removing inserts, step two - how to heat it, what to push it out with. Don't remove them if you're not replacing them. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #26 How a playfield is made and why your new inserts must be sanded flat before installation. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #34 How to sand your new inserts flat. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #35 Cleaning old glue out of the insert holes. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #36 Removing old mastic with a burr tool on a rotary device such as a Dremel. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #37 Prep your insert for gluing by sanding it with 100 grit. Epoxy can be chipped off the insert without this step. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

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#1907 9 years ago
 
MAC

wantdataeast

Inactive member

US Lexington, KY

9y 58,900 590 22

I took me 4 days to read every posting on this amazing thread. Being a virgin to restoration I have little to add except one FYI regarding Decals and use of Ink Jet vs. Laser printers.

I use to repair Laser printers and Laser toner is basically powered plastic, which would be why it is more fade resistant than ink. So with a Laser printer you are printing plastic on decals.

And YES decals, like any unrecommended printer media, are best to try when your fuser is its coolest (when you just turned it on)

3 weeks later
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#1978 8 years ago
 
MAC

wantdataeast

Inactive member

US Lexington, KY

9y 58,900 590 22

It is time someone mentioned this.

Vid, you should have a paypal donation button on your all your posts. If that violates some TOS of pinside you should tell us your paypal address and all of the people you have helped should echo it in their posts.

Expert advice like yours should be rewarded!

2 months later
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#2150 8 years ago
 
MAC

wantdataeast

Inactive member

US Lexington, KY

9y 58,900 590 22

Vid, I just bought a nearly perfect Star Wars Data east, its biggest detraction is typically wear to “The Force” and “Sarlac’s pit” holes.

I have 3 choices to repair

1. Clearcoat over the worn areas and leave it alone.

2. Cover with hole protectors, Cliffy seem to look the best but are crazy expensive ($50 a pair)

3. Repair with wood epoxy (Quickwood, Kwikwood or Woodwise brand), paint and clear.

The last owner had it for 17 years. This pinball has found its permanent home with me, and might get played 15-20 games a week from here on out.

I do not mind doing the epoxy repair, but do not want to waste my time if the epoxy wood (like woodwise) repair is just going to easily chip away after it gets hit with a ball a few times.

So, how does compare to the hardwood of a play field, when taking a hit? Obviously you would want to round the edge a bit (not give it a sharp corner).

(input appreciated from anyone who has made this type of repair with wood epoxy.... not how it looked... but how it lasted in play).

Ideally I would like to avoid a metal protector there. Repairing it every few years would be acceptable (but not every few months)

IMG_0908.jpgIMG_0908.jpg
IMG_0906_1.jpgIMG_0906_1.jpg

2 weeks later
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#2201 8 years ago
 
MAC

wantdataeast

Inactive member

US Lexington, KY

9y 58,900 590 22

I have a radical thought regarding clear coat. I have scoop hole on a nearly perfect Jurassic Park that only has about 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch of wood damage. Instead of carving out wood to give it some bit then cleaning it up with wood epoxy, then clear coating it. Has anyone ever tried to use clear coat with a brush on technique directly on the wood damage; and just build layer upon layer of clear coat until you have ... well in my case have 3/16 of an inch of it.

I have have not tried it, but something got me thinking. I was experimenting on some scrap wood trying to mimic typical scoop hole wear and quick wood does not seem to stick very well (so to do it properly you have to make the damage worse, so you get some bit for the wood epoxy.) But if you were to start with well worn wood, it seems then if you were to clearcoat such a worn area, then the clear would penetrate into the fibers and give you some good bite as you built up layer upon layer.

Then you could paint it near the final layers.. then clear the painted area.

Would extremely thick clear coat have the tendency to chip like wood epoxy would?

Has anyone tried this?
Any thoughts are appreciated.

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#2203 8 years ago
 
MAC

wantdataeast

Inactive member

US Lexington, KY

9y 58,900 590 22

Quoted from CaptainNeo:

for brush on, I use just straight up lacquer. Works great. Especially for open wood areas. Because for some reason. lacquer doesn't darken the wood like clearcoat does. When sanding grooves in older fields, i'll use a layer of lacquer to seal it up and keep the wood a lighter color that blends with the original lacquered playfield first, before shooting it with clear.

What I am looking for is maximum strength, not appearance. I can paint it for appearance. My query was about the strength of building up layer upon layer of clear coat and if that would both adhere better to bare wood, and be more chip resistant to a clear coated wood epoxy.

2 months later
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#2421 8 years ago
 
MAC

wantdataeast

Inactive member

US Lexington, KY

9y 58,900 590 22

I just pick up a Addams Family with some magnet burn, which I intend to repair.

IMG_1796.jpgIMG_1796.jpg

I can follow advice in this thread, but have a question.

Generally I would:
-sand down planking
-frisket off burn area

area-to-do.jpgarea-to-do.jpg

-paint white area
-re-frisket then paint yellow area
-re-frisket then paint orange area
(okay, so I will have to do red area as well)

use waterslide decal for black outline (roughly like this)

addams_blackoutline.pngaddams_blackoutline.png

(this is my real question) then Can I use a combo light green/dark green water slide decal like this:

addams_green.pngaddams_green.png

If I can use the light green/dark green letters as a decal, then I could obviously just combine the green lettering and dark outline on one clear waterslide decal?

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#2423 8 years ago
 
MAC

wantdataeast

Inactive member

US Lexington, KY

9y 58,900 590 22

Quoted from ckcsm:

Looks like fish eyes, this is a surface contamination problem. There is a product to use called "fisheye elimator". I'm not sure who's paint booth you are using, but I would ask them prior to using it as this may cause future painting to use it also as this stuff is like spraying airborn silicone.
Are the "air bubbles in the same area as when you clear coated prior?

I do not know the validity of the post below (not mine words but some other guys old post), about silicone:

"Yeah, it's very true - take it from someone who has been refinishing for 40+ years. Silicone is something you want to avoid at all costs. Yes, you can use smoothie or SW fisheye additive or many others - but once you contaminate your coating, you also contaminate the gun, your shop (due to overspray), and possibly even other surfaces that you need to spray that would not have needed to have treated finish applied! In the refinishing business, it was common practice to add fisheye remover to all the coatings all the time whether they needed it or not, just to be safe rather than sorry. So many people used cleaning products such as Johnson's wax or Pledge that when it came time to refinish, everything was contaminated and the refinisher would contaminate his whole shop with silicone in the process. Once it is in the shop, it is there for good. Try not to use it in your shop at all. Take projects like that to a refinisher instead and keep your shop free of the problem.
Also keep in mind that the sanding of both the finish and wood surface on contaminated surfaces infect the shop with fine particles of siliconized material that can cause future problems. And these may show up sporadically from time to time also. So be wise and keep it out of your shop altogether. Throwaway guns are not the answer unless you do it outside and away from your shop.

- See more at: http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/FishEye_Reducer_Is_It_Addictive.html#sthash.qwFGJtKI.dpuf

1 week later
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#2463 8 years ago
 
MAC

wantdataeast

Inactive member

US Lexington, KY

9y 58,900 590 22

Hey Vid you can you answer my Addams Family repair question back on page 49?

1 year later
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#4605 6 years ago
 
MAC

wantdataeast

Inactive member

US Lexington, KY

9y 58,900 590 22

OP
Quoted from vid1900:

I use Two Heads epoxy, but you can use just about any brand. One of my favorite restorers has been using the Harbor Freight $1.50 stuff (http://www.harborfreight.com/super-strong-quick-drying-epoxy-92665.html ) for years with perfect results.

Test your epoxy first! I'm a big fan of Harbor Freight just like Vid, however I just bought some two-part Epoxy from them and it was absolute feces. I mixed it in the proper 50/50 ratio and the stuff would not set. Even hours later The stuff on my scrap cardboard would still would not set.

I'm not saying don't use it , I'm saying if you decide to use it test it first. Harbor freight is great but quality control is not their strong suit.

I think if you're going to use $4 dollar a bottle createx paint ( which I do ) instead of $.99 junk. You should not skimp on epoxy with a questionable quality control. Mine could be an isolated incident so definitely test your epoxy first and make sure it sets properly.

4 weeks later
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#4728 6 years ago
 
MAC

wantdataeast

Inactive member

US Lexington, KY

9y 58,900 590 22

Quoted from PinballBillinFL:

3) What's the best way to get the gummy rubber residue off the plastic posts?

I always use my HF ultrasonic cleaner to clean plastic posts from the playfield, works great cleans inside and out.

https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=EAScore%2Cf%2CEAFeatured+Weight%2Cf%2CSale+Rank%2Cf&q=ultrasonic

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