(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

By vid1900

11 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

143 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #7 Playfield damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #8 Insert damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #34 How to sand your new inserts flat. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #35 Cleaning old glue out of the insert holes. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)


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#4725 6 years ago

I am also considering outsourcing clear coating for similar reasons. I won't be making a job of this, and my health is important to me. So I am looking to follow this advice:

Quoted from vid1900:

I'd really just take it to a backyard auto body joint.
Go to your local Autozone and look on the bulletin board.
Find auto painters that work out of their garage.
Call and find someone "open" to the idea. A reluctant painter will be a sucky painter.
Remind them you want it shot flat on it's back (easy).
Work on his schedule for the lowest price. If he "cleans out his gun" at the end of an auto job, he might charge you $20.
Be sure to remind him you will be back for additional coats and additional playfields.

Reading this thread it does seem there are clear coating activities I can't really outsource. These seem to be the clear coat needs for my project:

1. Lock down any loose fibers and paint (outsource)

Quoted from vid1900:

Usually I remove Mylar, Magic Eraser, and scrape paint off worn inserts .
Then I put down a light coat of clear.

2. Fill/level inserts (in house) - I have edge wear from raised inserts, I want to level and prevent future wear and touch up or decal worn lettering. I think 2PAC and a glass eyedropper has been recommended several times.

Quoted from vid1900:

The edge wear is fixed by leveling the inserts (if they are popped) and then filling the chipped area with 2 part clear.

3. Final coats (outsource)

If outsourcing #1 and #3, I am hoping I only need a small amount of 2PAC and new filters for my respirator.

Any issues with this approach? If not, does anyone have a good recommendation (cost effective) on a 2PAC brand/product and where to purchase it for only step #2? Vid previously recommended getting a quart over a rattle can for small work, but $85 for a quart of MC161 seems expensive for this job.

Quoted from vid1900:

You might just get a quart of 2PAC from the local auto store.
The whole can of 2K will be hard in a few days, for the few drops you are going to use.
The 2PAC will be good for years as long as you don't get any activator into the clear can.

Maybe someone nearby has one of these opened "good for years" quarts in storage

3 months later
#5300 6 years ago
Quoted from arolden:

Well, I was thrown off because Vid recommended Createx specifically because it did not change colour when dry.
Is Createx still recommended at all for playfield repairs? If it does not dry the same colour, I cannot think of a reason to use it over other good quality water-based paints.

Many have your experience with Createx colors.

Quoted from Lonzo:

I use Createx paint as well and I have had issues with the paint drying darker than it is mixed

Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

Hey vid, just a heads up about the Createx paint - it definitely dries DARKER than the original mix.

Quoted from PhilGreg:

Createx dries darker

Quoted from dkeruza:

I am using Createx Opaque paint and I am experiencing the problem that I have a really nice match, but when I apply it, the color dries darker

Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Also, the green out of the bottle dries darker than what's on the playfield

On the flip side, that's not the only pro listed for these paints. Shooting and covering well (lots of pigment), being able to fix mistakes before heat setting, and knowing it interacts well with clear coats.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/2#post-629391

#5334 6 years ago

I was thinking of trying this product (or similar transfer tape) for masking (frisket). If someone knows better I'd really appreciated it.

https://www.amazon.com/Vinyl-Ease-Application-Transfer-Silhouette/dp/B008CEQR26/

The recommended product is out-of-stock (once in cart):

http://www.tcpglobal.com/KUS-CMF1230.html#.U-aPOWMa1dg

Here is my practice project. Very flaky. Formerly a "parts machine" that lived in MN garage temps.

LuckySevenProject (resized).jpgLuckySevenProject (resized).jpg

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