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(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

By vid1900

11 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

143 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #6 Removing mylar and the adhesive left behind. Don't clear over it. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #7 Playfield damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #8 Insert damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #15 Removing inserts, step one - cut around it so you don't remove artwork with the insert. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #23 Removing inserts, step two - how to heat it, what to push it out with. Don't remove them if you're not replacing them. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #26 How a playfield is made and why your new inserts must be sanded flat before installation. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #34 How to sand your new inserts flat. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #35 Cleaning old glue out of the insert holes. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #36 Removing old mastic with a burr tool on a rotary device such as a Dremel. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #37 Prep your insert for gluing by sanding it with 100 grit. Epoxy can be chipped off the insert without this step. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

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#1235 9 years ago
 
BUR

TheRingMaster

Inactive member

SE Unknown City

10y 40,150 1,309

Hi there! First of all, thanks for an amazing guide!

I am doing a restoration of a bride of pinbot and I have now gotten to the playfield fixing. Need to repair some areas where the paint has worn off and also fix some yellowed areas that were outside the Mylar. Also some inserts with uneven edges. So I have removed the Mylar and all the glue and wiped it off with ME and alcohol trying to clean some areas. Done some sanding to level screw holes etc.

My question is how to prep the PF before painting. I have read the guide (but will do it again before starting) but I cant really find out if I should just paint now or if I should first clear a thin layer of 2PAC over the whole thing to settle everything? Also, should I go over everything gently with ME and alcohol to remove any old wax and things?

Thanks again, Andy

Edit: From what i understand by looking a little closer it goes like:
1. Remove mylar

2. Clean with Magic Eraser + alcohol + fix uneven screw holes, shooter lane etc.

3. Lay down a thin layer of clear to lock down the wood and prevent existing paint from lifting when the frisket is applied. (could be done in just the area that needs repainting?).

4. Do the painting and decaling

5. Clear coat it all

Sorry for taking up the time.

Post edited by TheRingMaster: My bad, did not read well enough =)

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#1248 9 years ago
 
BUR

TheRingMaster

Inactive member

SE Unknown City

10y 40,150 1,309

OP
Quoted from vid1900:

I think you have the idea!
No two playfields are ever restored exactly the same way.
Just make sure you sand any shiny parts of the playfield so the new clear can stick.

Good good! Fingers crossed I won't screw it but I think it will probably be alright. Hardest part seem to be the inserts since there is so much paint on them.

1 week later
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#1272 9 years ago
 
BUR

TheRingMaster

Inactive member

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10y 40,150 1,309

Hi all! Just wanted to share my findings concerning the plastic primer and glue. Not sure if it works 100% but a little more reading should do it I guess. I am located in Europe so it's always some more research to find matching products over here. Anyway,

I have, as others on here, been looking for a plastic primer. Can't seem to find the 3M stuff easily so I had a look and found a product that may work as an alternative. It's the loctite 7239. There is also one called loctite 770 that might work too. Here are some info:

Loctite 7239
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/391151.pdf

Loctite 770
http://uk.farnell.com/loctite/142624/activator-770-10gm/dp/1370163

Don't know exactly but I think it works about the same as the 3M.

Next, I am planning to use a glue called "Loctite power epoxy universal" that comes in a syringe style tube. Don't know what the same is called in the us but here in Europe it's called that. Here is what it looks like:
http://corkartsupplies.com/Loctite-Power-Epoxy-Mini-Universal-6ml-G01460

I have used it a lot on my RC planes after some hard landings and it's very strong and easy to use. Next time you crash it won't break the glued part. Also glued the rear view mirror of my car (metal to windshield) with it and it held up very well.

I wonder if the primer works well with an epoxy glue like that or if it's just for CA glues.

The research continues...

Edit: I contacted loctite to ask if the primers mentioned above was suitable for epoxy glue. They answered that it is for CA glues and that they do not have a primer for epoxy glue. I returned another mail asking if it's good, bad, or no difference to use it with epoxy and I'll edit here once they reply.
And their reply was that with epoxy one should not use primer but rather sand the surface (insert) with a coarse sanding paper. Then clean it with something like Loctite 7063 that they mentioned. Well, if you guys tested with 770 or 3M and epoxy I guess it works.

Just wanted to fill in some info.

Key post
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#1288 9 years ago
 
BUR

TheRingMaster

Inactive member

SE Unknown City

10y 40,150 1,309

Speaking of sanding, the first layer of clear, that is done before painting and decaling as far as I understand it.. Should it be sanded as well? Feels like it shall be as flat as possible just wondering. I'm doing lots of research now to begin my first try on a PF. Very interesting!

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#1290 9 years ago
 
BUR

TheRingMaster

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SE Unknown City

10y 40,150 1,309

Alright! Thanks =) basic thing that need to be learned before hitting this project. And thanks again for this thread and baring all the noob questions!

1 week later
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#1339 9 years ago
 
BUR

TheRingMaster

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SE Unknown City

10y 40,150 1,309

Another question =),
I am going to fix most inserts on my BOP playfield. They have some different wear. Some are shrunken in, some are raised and some just have plenty of wear on them. I have not inspected them super careful yet but I think none of them are broken.

Anyway, when I have leveled an insert, how do I fine tune it? What i want to adress are some small chips in the paint/wood around the insert where the ball has struck while the insert was too low. (might even be some chips in some inserts too if they were raised..)

Whats the best approach to fill/fix these cracks? (especially the ones in the PF wood that resulted from a shrunk insert). Epoxy, 2PAC (Not the rapper though... ), bondo or something completely different? Also not the micro cracks on the insert glass in the middle of the space shuttle. Will that be fixed by sanding it or has the insert suffered too much UV light and will need to be replaced?

I will do a first coat of clear over the whole PF and then paint and decal the inserts and some other spots, and last lay down the final layers of clear. Im about to start this project very soon so just need to get some of these questions straight.

Here are some pics:

bopins.jpgbopins.jpg
shuttleins.jpgshuttleins.jpg

Lets hope this has not yet been adressed in the thread.. read it but cant seem to find it.

/ Andy

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#1342 9 years ago
 
BUR

TheRingMaster

Inactive member

SE Unknown City

10y 40,150 1,309

Allright! Makes sense to fill with clear. And the shuttle and other stubborn inserts.. I am planning to scan, clean up, paint the colors then add a decal for the black outlines. Most inserts on this game have art on them. Except for the EBs that are a bit more normal. A note to anyone who needs new inserts for BOP extra balls, they should not be red but amber colored. I thought mine were faded and ordered some new but then when I double checked it turned out they are amber. So need to get some of those instead.

Thanks for the info and the vid vid... =)

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#1376 9 years ago
 
BUR

TheRingMaster

Inactive member

SE Unknown City

10y 40,150 1,309

Really love this thread! I have written down the major parts and I am studying it every day like a homework. Soon soon I am ready to take the plunge! Thanks again!

1 week later
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#1402 9 years ago
 
BUR

TheRingMaster

Inactive member

SE Unknown City

10y 40,150 1,309

OP
Quoted from vid1900:

Fill the cracks with 2PAC .
The cracks in the clear coat of the shuttle can be scraped out with a razor, but you should scan the area first in case you slip and chip out the black ink. Or just scan, make a decal and scrape out the whole shuttle...

Me again with my BOP PF. I have started to clean up some inserts and it looks that even though I sand them like with new inserts some micro cracks are buried deeper in them.

Question 1: Should I worry about it? Like have the plastic degenerated from sunlight and tension in the wood and have it now become too fragile to accept? Do you have any experience from micro cracks like these bastards resulting in broken inserts?

Question 2: Most inserts are level with the wood but some, like in the pics in my earlier post, have these worn edges. When I slide my finger over them and inspect them I imagine the difference in level is maybe half a mm. At first I thought I should warm them and push them in/out but now I am thinking it would be best to not mess with them (like some earlier post in the thread stated, if they have not moved in 20+ years...) The clear will fill any minor "unlevelness" and if I secure them with some extra epoxy on the back I might be fine. Still new tension from new clear and all that...What do you think?

Thanks in advance!

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#1413 9 years ago
 
BUR

TheRingMaster

Inactive member

SE Unknown City

10y 40,150 1,309

OP
Quoted from vid1900:

If the micro cracks are in the plastic itself and not the clear coat, then that will give some charcter to the playfield.
If they are real cracks, then replace the insert or if inserts are unavailable, reinforce from behind.

.5mm of difference will be buried in the clear, but make sure you glue on the backs.

Allright! Thanks for the reply, I am sanding off the inserts up to about 400 grit and it looks allright. Hard to tell what the micro cracks really are but it does not look that bad. Hopefully they will hold up a couple of more year (like 20 more at least =) ). Looking forward to shooting the first layer of clear. Still waiting for some inserts I ordered though and the sanding and prepping takes time.

3 weeks later
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#1596 9 years ago
 
BUR

TheRingMaster

Inactive member

SE Unknown City

10y 40,150 1,309

Let me know when I can buy the book =)

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#1598 9 years ago
 
BUR

TheRingMaster

Inactive member

SE Unknown City

10y 40,150 1,309

Good and popular thread and if those digests are popping up like bumpers on a PF (oouh) the book might some day too.

1 week later
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#1613 9 years ago
 
BUR

TheRingMaster

Inactive member

SE Unknown City

10y 40,150 1,309

I have sanded the underside of my pf slightly to make it look brand new. Now, I want to coat it. The question is, what's best to clear it with? I'm thinking I won't like it just as hard and shiny as the top so going with the same clear would be overkill. Next I was thinking I could use some regular furniture wood clear that I just brush on to secure the fibres and sand it slightly. But I wonder.. Would this give issues? For example if the different clears would react in some nasty way if they get in contact even though the bottom would be cured way before the top is shot, and second thing, could it cause different unnecessary tensions on the top and bottom causing risk of bending the PF and/or put extra stress on the inserts? (I won't clear the back of the inserts apparently but I mean the wood) reason I ask is cause I have a good looking furniture clear left over that I used on both sides of the cab bottom and it turned out really good and looks how I want the PF underside to look.

Thanks in advance =)

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#1623 9 years ago
 
BUR

TheRingMaster

Inactive member

SE Unknown City

10y 40,150 1,309

Thanks vid!

So different tension from a different clear (water based furniture wood clear) won't be an issue? The PF is for a bop so I'll go with clear and not paint this time since it was like that from factory. My HS has that grey underside so when I do that one I will paint it grey again for factory loyalty.

1 month later
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#1723 9 years ago
 
BUR

TheRingMaster

Inactive member

SE Unknown City

10y 40,150 1,309

Hi vid and everyone else!

To clear or not to clear is the question im asking this time

Got an independence day the other day and together with it came a spare PF that is in better condition than the old. Ive stripped it totally and cleaned it up and its much better than I first thought.
My plan was to clear coat it but now I wonder if thats really necessary, it will be home use as long as I have it (cant account for possible future buyers though.)

A pic of the PF (this was before the cleaning):

1.jpg1.jpg

And some pics of the inserts.

id4ins.jpgid4ins.jpg

Im thinking it will suffice to just fix the inserts, level them and/or put some glue under the clear that has lifted. Then wax it real good, apply some new mylar on the waxed surface and polish and be happy.
IF im gonna clear it, is it sketchy to do if the old clear reacts in some unknown nasty way with the new? Need some advice here.

Andy

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#1725 9 years ago
 
BUR

TheRingMaster

Inactive member

SE Unknown City

10y 40,150 1,309

Allright! I'm thinking just a thin layer or two to seal it and make it bulletproof. Thanks for the tip! If you would've suggested not to clear it I wouldn't but since I'm already tempted...

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#1729 9 years ago
 
BUR

TheRingMaster

Inactive member

SE Unknown City

10y 40,150 1,309

Me again with the ID4 field.. is it safe to warm up the inserts and push them in with a clamp etc. Im worried the old glue will get ruined if I do that.. I can always add some extra on the back but.. I dont want to remove the inserts completely cause I dont want to crack the good side of the art (even if I cut the outlines with an exacto). The art in these spots aint the best for trying to recreate either.

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#1732 9 years ago
 
BUR

TheRingMaster

Inactive member

SE Unknown City

10y 40,150 1,309

Allright, thanks! Lets hope the old glue will hold up good together with some new on the back.

1 year later
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#3483 7 years ago
 
BUR

TheRingMaster

Inactive member

SE Unknown City

10y 40,150 1,309

Hi all!

I know it's not Halloween but just wanted to show an example of how playfield restoration should NOT be done. It's scary...Found this on a spare pf I bought for my High Speed. Apparantly I need to restore it.. still better than the original one that came with my game.

cheers

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touchups.pngtouchups.png

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