(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

By vid1900

11 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

143 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #7 Playfield damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #8 Insert damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #34 How to sand your new inserts flat. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #35 Cleaning old glue out of the insert holes. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#2750 8 years ago

whoa, that's a divot alright

1 year later
#4157 7 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

The adhesive will pull the paint off the playfield.

Boy I think that's going a bit far don't you think? Or wait for a GB, never mind...carry on

1 year later
#5992 5 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

You can use Naphtha anytime you want .
Especially to remove the oil from your fingers

Or the film from your tongue!

2 weeks later
#6032 5 years ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

I cleaned my playfield with magic eraser and 99%alcohol. I’m pretty happy with the result.
It did leave a film in areas. I tried wiping it up before it dried and I tried naphtha with little effect. It does look great when wet with naphtha, but i would like to remove it if possible. Any suggestions?
You can see it a little in the orange and black
[quoted image]

Whenever using alcohol and ME wipe down with novus 2 right after

4 weeks later
#6109 5 years ago

There's a guide? Shit man...I think it's just mixing city, trial and error.
Teal is a classic shitty color for EMS. Very easy to mix the original color yourself, tough to get it aged correctly to match though

#6117 5 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

"Bright Orange" is not offered by Createx ...

It is, just not in the smaller bottles.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009MFRMSC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01

#6122 5 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

It's brick-orange when dry, I bought some and have never found a use for it in pinball.

It worked well on Stern Nine Ball cab. Think I only used a very small amount on PF if any.

#6134 5 years ago

For swirls like that it's ME time...so if you're scared of Novus 2 you might want to just live with it

7 months later
#6659 4 years ago

Wadded up painters tape works fine.

4 months later
#6787 4 years ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

If I put a game in the game room before it is restored, it never gets restored.

Pretty standard...which is why half the time when you buy an older game you get all the "extras." New plastics I never installed, new sound board, decals etc

2 months later
#6844 4 years ago

Mylar is fine. I put it down on every new game so when I sell it I don't have to hear newbs whining.
There are more expensive methods but overkill for me.

3 months later
1 week later
1 week later
#6929 3 years ago

Cream, buttermilk, ivory, parchment etc etc anything but white

#6939 3 years ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

I had to make it a mantra, PULL 180, PULL 180...

Interesting, i'll keep that in mind. i only tried Frisket once and it immediately pulled up paint so i never tried again, wonder if this was in the mix.

#6947 3 years ago
Quoted from jaybird5619:

Clarification, please -- do you paint black key lines or wet slide decals?

Paint, very easy to do

#6949 3 years ago
Quoted from jaybird5619:

Will take me a few days to get supplies and get going,...

Use whatever you like, but personally I like to use some nice Liner brushes. Around 4-5 a pop at Michaels but they are better balanced and higher quality. You can see the 2 on the right here, opposed to a standard "mixed back of small brushes" you're usually choosing from on the left. And the cutting the bristles down etc
20200512_203222.jpg20200512_203222.jpg

1 month later
#6977 3 years ago

Easily touch those spots up with a brush, 100%. You'd be able to paint each color on the side and the black in the middle.
Areas like that blue pop, get your god blue color mixed, brush a little, smear it with your finger fills in spots like that nice. Same with the red in the middle of a PF

#6983 3 years ago
Quoted from Beatnik-Filmstar:

Assuming I can get RGB/CMYK codes for close matches to the playfield, is there a way to order small amounts of custom colors? Or will I be limited to "go buy the closest blue/red/purple and try to lighten/darken as best you can."?

What I would do is start with a createx opaque set from wherever
https://www.amazon.com/Createx-Colors-5803-00-Airbrush-Multicolor/dp/B000NW182O/ref=sr_1_2

Your standard colors can be mixed pretty well for a lot of area; but once you start getting in to the purple area it's a little tougher.
So starting with the basics and then adding in acrylic bottles for a closer match can help. Decoart Americana is a fine paint to use.

You can also take your matches to Michaels or whatever and try to match them as close as possible. Pick up a cool brush whilst you're there in the painting section, not crafting. Princton Liners are nice.

Maybe someone knows a good off the shelf purple for Gottliebs?

#6986 3 years ago
Quoted from Beatnik-Filmstar:

Forgive my ignorance. Are you saying pick up a set of the Createx primary colors and try to mix my own custom colors? Adding cheaper acrylics to hone in on what I'm looking for?

Correct.
The acrylics are great, and come in way more colors. Sometimes you can get a spot on match. But I think Gottlieb the red & blue are easy with createx primaries.

#6988 3 years ago

Well the red on there is probably straight red primary, give it take a little yellow or white.

4 months later
#7114 3 years ago

You should be extremely nervous. You might get it off fine and be left with a ton of glue residue, and cleaning thst can be what does the most damage

1 week later
#7140 3 years ago
Quoted from dtrimberger:

Re-doing a Stern Stars. Would everyone recommend painting the GI areas under slings, plastics ,etc...

Nope.

Well I guess I should ask are you really re painting every part of the PF?

And then the answer is still no.

#7142 3 years ago
Quoted from dtrimberger:

I thought I read on Vid's guide here somewhere that one of the main errors with...

Yeah he probably said that, but you should be OK. Light spread should be OK even without LEDs.

Again, unless you're clearing over everything anyway and want to get deep into it; Even then I wouldn't.

1 week later
#7155 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

You can easily polish them back to shiny with Novus2]

Hmmmm no sorry, Pinside told me I shouldn't use Novus on plastic.
Yes...I know....

#7157 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The Novus line of products are primarily designed for plastic repairs and maintenance.

Quoted from TheLaw:

Yes...I know....

2 months later
#7247 3 years ago

Clamp, block of wood, wax paper if you like

2 months later
#7371 3 years ago

In general I wouldn't use a lossy format like jpg.
I'd go TIFF

3 months later
#7478 2 years ago
Quoted from dmgambone:

I’ve been wiping it down with Naptha, but don’t want to go to hard and damage it more.

Well you gotta pay to play! Ball marks/swirls only repsond to muscle and abrasive materials, so it's sketchy because you are already losing paint.
Novus 2 might clean it up a bit, and might take some paint off.
Magic Eraser & Alcohol really works on those things, but is really is abusive to paint....which is already coming off! Plus you gotta novus 2 right after ME

So let me ask you a question...are you good at painting PFs?

EDIT: Might as well take a razor blade and cut that pop bumper mylar off that isn't doing anything.

3 months later
#7700 2 years ago
Quoted from vipe155:

Has anyone tried using acrylic inks for touch up painting? Like Liquitex or Amsterdam?

Nope, is there a reason we should? Is it better that createx?

1 month later
#7736 2 years ago

Looks like you could just paint the black and cover with some mylar to me.
If its an early TNA those things has some horrible PF quality

1 week later
#7755 2 years ago
Quoted from Insanity_Falls:

So, assuming I’m an absolute buffoon when it comes to anything regarding playfield touch up, do I have any chance of saving this insert art or should I just leave well enough alone before they all end up looking like that old painting of Jesus that got restored into oblivion in Italy a while back?
Would like to shiny up the jewels above too, but that’s most likely waaaay above my pay grade.
[quoted image]

Honestly no chance; Just wax it and enjoy.

1 month later
#7821 2 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

If a pro that paints cars everyday is not using all that, why would you.

Don't know if I'd trust the dudes down at Maaco with health advice.

2 years later
#8720 50 days ago
Quoted from Ollulanus:

Info is bound to be in here but damned if I can find it. Getting my first one ready to go as soon as I catch wear weather (also, what's the coolest temp you'd consider clearing in?)

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/20#post-1795975

#8722 50 days ago
Quoted from Ollulanus:

JFK, I looked through the keyed post list 5 times, lol. Thanks.

Ha, there's A LOT of'em!

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