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So say I am heating an insert to then C clamp it back into position and re-epoxy (this one just came in and I am looking to get it playable... will resto and clear coat later with new inserts at a later date). Everything I read says to 'use a heat gun'... but has anyone noted a good temperature to operate at? My heat gun is variable, and I'd like to set it as exact as possible.
Thanks.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:i've never had success with heat guns and inserts. If they are loose enough to pop out with your finger. Do it, apply glue in the wood part edge of the hole and put the insert back in. Use to flat blocks and C clamp it in. If it's not, go from the back, put glue along the edge, between the bevel and the plastic edge, then clamp down.
Neo - Thank you so much for chiming in. So far Alpha through Golf are reseated on this F14 without any issue using the flat oak and C Clamp method. Time will tell if the epoxy will be enough to hold it; but there's an above average chance this one makes it to a full tear down in the 1-3 year future even if it doesn't. Now to moving all the boards around to get the other dozen or so that are raised.
Quoted from sethbenjamin:Vid showed us that 12" black C-clamp from Hazard Fraught Tools early in this guide. I went and bought one, and it is a good tool to have for installing the inserts. However, its construction doesn't allow for much pressure. For hard to reach spots, I used this Vise-grip style clamp made by Kreg tools. It applies lots of pressure even at a 12" reach and is saving my biscuits right now.
Of course, I'm just crossing my fingers that the inserts don't rise again once the clear goes on...
Do you happen to have a link to that handy tool? I also bought the 12" C-Clamps from Harbor Freight and after a few not even redoing just releveling the existing inserts on an F14 mine are totally bent and jacked from putting them under solid pressure.
Anyone know what would make this type of pattern? Doesn't seem anything is alive in the machines by a long shot, but one head and one playfield have marks like this. Like a divot, not boring through like a termite or wood beetle.
Trying to determine how salavgeable this package deal is going to be. Also, if that is on say, 10% of a playfield is it even worth trying to save and clear?
Ok - Apologies for the Vague post above... Here's a picture that's more on topic. Long story short - I had a bulk purchase, and found one head (the big game pictured above), and more importantly, the Strikes n Spares playfield pictured here... After consulting with some experts (biologist and an exterminator) - the best guess we have is this damage is from Paper Wasps harvesting wood to build their nests. Nothing is living in the wood, or it won't get any worse as it sits.
My question is - Does any one have any recommendations for this? Other than the pic shown, there's more under the left arch and left orbit - but otherwise the PF is mostly clean. Since it isn't a high dollar machine and I'm not going for a full restoration by any stretch - I'm thinking clearing/painting/etc is all too expensive (i've never cleared myself and don't have anywhere near the set up yet). I can't imagine it's playable as it sits - so what would my options be? It feels like the best case here is to shoot for a player's machine with imperfection, but the PF would need filled/leveled with something. Any suggestions?
Thanks to everyone in advance.
So - here are two more pictures for additional looks at it. Further down the orbit on SnS and then the bottom of another head for reference. No worries about the head - it's internal, may just paint/varnish it to seal but not concerned. I think these two pictures account for at least 80-85% of the total damage, most of the rest of in pretty good shape with a little bit of 'normal' wear around a few inserts. Yes, the damage itself are a bunch of little divots - but no hole indicated any type of boring into the wood. That's how we ruled out anything like a wood beetle or something of that nature. It doesn't seem to go a full layer through the plywood or anything like that.
I like the idea of dripping 2Pac - but I'd imagine getting that flat without clearing the rest of the playfield would be a major challenge. Given where it is on the field it isn't like it's dead center above the flippers, but still could affect the upper lanes. I may wax and mylar and see where that gets me. Maybe I can find someone local to help me out with clearing and see if it's a viable fix. I know this PF was remade and available still, so that limits the sense putting time and money into this one makes even further. Then again maybe that saftey net makes this a perfect candidate to give resto a shot and try cutting my teeth...
Thanks again Vid. Any additional comments or insight is much appreciated.
Quoted from Silverstreak02:My mistake it is made by Montana. I use the same createx that I’m spraying for touch ups.
Ok I have to ask - As someone who is just starting to dip toes into restoration work and have literally never used a spray gun before - How well does this marker work? I'll get around to getting the sprayer bought and set, but I'm just moving to a new place and my workshop is a little less than set up right now - but I have a few temporary fixes to make and mylar before I get to full resto work.
Thanks!
Quoted from DropTarget:I ordered one.
Got an email saying sold out.
Ditto. If anyone finds another Laser around that price point, please post it here and I'm all over it. I'll have decals to print for a Pinball Pool in the next few coming weeks.
So here's one I just noticed... I'm cleaning up an old Flight 2k that's now nicely functioning, but definitely players condition and not a resto candidate. It's good enough to me to beat on until something nicer comes and replaces it.
Anyway - just as i'm finishing up my waxing I notice a little nick of wood in the shooter lane... finally realize it's a hole in the shooter lane from the prop rod - the sharp stern end poked the whole way through the underneath of the playfield from that heavy wideboard board over the years.
Wood putty the hole and forget it (Topside exposure is absolutely minimal)? Something better/worse?
Quoted from vid1900:Wood putty has no strength, the prop rod will instantly poke it's way back through.
Better to use fiberglass resin.
Any tips for someone who's never used fiberglass before?
I believe this is the same mask Vid just recommended - but via Amazon for those of us with prime shipping and 5% cashback amazon cards 
I'll feel a lot safer rocking this when I'm cleaning my planked playfields with Naptha...
https://smile.amazon.com/3M-Paint-Project-Respirator-Medium/dp/B00004Z4EB/ref=sr_1_3
Quoted from grantopia:Dumb logistical question, for actually "inserting the inserts" into the playfield, I assume you want to put them in from the top, so any excess glue would run down towards the cabinet - correct?
Yep - It's covered way back on page one - linked post #40
Vid - I had a quick question regarding bare wood and recoloring it. I searched the thread, but the best I could find was the below. Can you elaborate on using shellac (or lacquer or some other method) for staining bare wood back to a similar aged color? If it was just the shooter lane, I probably wouldn't worry about it for my first PF repair - but it's a Pinball Pool and had a lot of bare wood wear right in front of the flippers as well I'd like to at least get close.
"2. Sand out the shooter lane (paint if necessary), sand out the ball trail that leads up to the top arch (don't try to spot sand, sand all the wood to the edge of the graphics, sand the bare wood by the flippers up to the graphics, sand the two kick out saucers (wood filler and paint if necessary), sand in front of slingshots. Use some shellac to "stain" the wood back to a realistic color for it's age. "
OK - one more stupid question. I know we've talked laser printers to make water slides. (still trying to find a decent one that isn't expensive - they always sell out when you post them here). What about scanner beds? Is HP kind of the gold standard, or would any see through type scanner fit the bill?
Can you guys throw out a model number or two for the ones you do have? Maybe I'm searching by the wrong verbiage, but I keep finding either regular old flatbed scanners or small 'run the paper through it' type scanners. The clear/see through flatbed portables aren't showing. (are they phased out even?)
There is one - but it's only 300-600 DPI. Is that sharp enough? https://www.amazon.com/Flip-Pal-adapter-EasyStitch-StoryScans-software/dp/B003VPPA56/ref=sr_1_3
or if anyone has a lead on a cheap laser printer again - I'll be quick this time, haha.
ok - Back with another question... Anyone have a good 'color matching for dummies' article. I'm using the Createx airbrush paints as per the guide and have the basic 6 color set. But trying to determine what color to add to how much of the other is almost an exercise in futility. I guess I always sucked in art class and it's finally coming back to bite me.
Thoughts on one of the color matching scanners that uses its own reference light to eliminate bias? https://colormuse.io/ - Is there anyway to translate the CYMK or RGB output it gives into createx? (even if it's just getting it close then eyeballing it for perfection).
Any other tips greatly appreciated.
Quoted from vid1900:Know that there are certainly colors that are tough to match.
Yeah but I'm struggling with basic Yellows and Reds. I was hoping to find something to get me in the ball park - then I could try and lock in from there. Maybe it's just experience and I'm in for a bunch of trial and error.
Quoted from vid1900:I just take the cab into the hardware store on a hand cart and have them match under the legs with their computer.
If I go that route - What's a good paint choice to then put on the PF? I didn't think Sherwin Williams/Benjamin Moore/etc could mix an acrylic.
PBResource has a rubbery grommet for under the screws that were originally used on Gottlieb games with PF windows (black hole/Haunted House/Street Fighter/etc). It might be a good idea to get new ones of those and redo them. they're like 30 cents or so a piece and work great. I had the same issue on my SF2 car crunch window
I finally read a printer post that wasn't OOS when I went to buy it! My cheapie laser comes tomorrow. The off times I'll need color, I'll try taking the decal sheets to work... Vid - Thanks again for all the help
Ok, wanted a quick opinion, though I'm pretty sure I know the answer.
Down the line - this PF will likely be one I consider going the full nine on (if the game sticks in my collection). The inserts are cupped and the planking is rough, but roughly flat to the touch.
My question is - this is it after some vigorous naptha. Until I go to restore it (already have one in the works, it may be awhile) - just wax and play from here? I'd like to clean it better, but with the extensive planking I'd be afraid anything else could absorb and damage the board. I figured I'd ask the pros before I go any further. Thanks in advance for your help!
20190127_214355 (resized).jpgLooks like this Color Laser is on sale at Amazon... anyone have any experience with Canon Laser printers or this model? I bought a black/white one, but need to print full color decals for a playfield and this looks to be a nice entry level one that'll fit the need nicely.
https://smile.amazon.com/Canon-imageCLASS-LBP612CDW-Color-Printer/dp/B06XY1N25H/ref=sr_1_4
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Upper Saint Clair, PA