(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

By vid1900

11 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

143 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #7 Playfield damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #8 Insert damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #34 How to sand your new inserts flat. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #35 Cleaning old glue out of the insert holes. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)


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#388 10 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Let your decals dry overnight and you are ready for clear coat.
Two-part auto clear is "hot", meaning that it has very active solvents that will melt your fragile decals if you are not careful.
If this is your first time spraying clear, practice on some decal scrap stuck to a beer can or piece of sheet metal. Get the feel for how much clear melts the decals on some scrap rather than your precious playfield. When I say melt, I mean destroyed; the effect is not subtle.
Spray your first coat as dry as you can. Almost dust over the decals.
Ten minutes latter, give another very, very light coat.
Ten minutes after that, you can finally give a normal, light coat of clear.
Now your decals are protected. You can make any other last minute painting touchups you found, or go ahead and finish clear coating the playfield.

Vid, After applying a water slide decal I sprayed it with a clear gloss acrylic to protect it from melting from the final clear coat. Seemed to work ok. Is this technique ok!

#390 10 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

The investment is quite small, as long as you can borrow someone's compressor. Way under $75.
You spend $150 on a plastic ramp, so by comparison, this stuff is cheap!
You'll need an air compressor with a bigger size tank, 30 gallons or larger (nobody ever complained they bought too large of a compressor). That's the High Volume part of High Volume Low Pressure (HVLP). If you are going to get a really big air compressor to use with air tools and the like (60-80-100 gallon), don't get a crappy aluminum head Husky or Craftsman. Get a real iron headed compressor (like a Saylor-Beall) used on Craigslist. It will outlast you and cost less than the Husky. The iron headed compressors can be completely rebuilt, unlike the aluminum.
You'll need a water separator:
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/air-tool-accessories/12-standard-air-filter-68279.html
You'll need a moisture filter that installs at the gun:
http://www.harborfreight.com/disposable-inline-moisture-filter-68224.html
You'll need a regulator that installs at the gun (you don't want to keep walking back to the compressor):
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/air-tool-accessories/125-psi-air-flow-regulator-with-gauge-68219.html
You'll need the HVLP gun:
http://widgets.harborfreight.com/wswidgets/common/displayCoupon.do?week=0813&campaign=b&page=coupon18.html&single=true&cust=77933728034&keycode=1012
-
Of course once you have a nice sized air compressor, you can wet sand pneumatically and get the playfield really flat.

Can you elaborate on your technique and what equipment you use for wet sanding pneumatically.
Thanks Vid

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