Bobby Orr's Power Play
Bally, 1978
Gilligan's Island
Bally, 1991
Space Jam
Sega, 1996You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider sed6.
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Can I do any or all of this work without completely disassembling the underside of the PF? I know drop targets will need to come out, same with regular targets and pretty much everything that sticks up above the PF surface. But I've never stripped the underside of my PF and would hope I can leave most of the wiring and what not in place. Is this possible or am I deluding myself?
I've just re-read the whole thread over the last 2 days. Waiting 5 days now for an update (hopefully how to clear coat the PF) is like waiting for the next installment of my favorite pinball podcast. I can't wait!
Thanks Vid for the awesome how to help! I'm ready to dive into mine, once I learn how to do that all important clear coat 
Quoted from vid1900:I'm going to walk you guys through clearcoating with just normal tools you can find anywhere. Sure I've got a bunch of high end HVLP guns, but I'm going to show you how to do it with a $12 gun and get totally pro results.
Thank goodness, and finally! Some of us have undoubtedly been waiting since this threads inception (just 8 months for me though) for this part. Everything you've outlined so far has been tremendously helpful. That hardest part is that I (we) need to lay down that thin layer of clear before any paint touch ups can be completed. So this 'last' step is really one of the first to be done, before so many of your other helpful steps can be applied. I'm glad you've carved out some time to get this important and sort of scary process outlined for the rest of us. I cannot wait to see the rest of the clear coat process. Thanks Vid!
Quoted from vid1900:Good pics to show where you are at!
1. Sand out the shooter lane and see if it can be cleaned up.
2. Sand out the ball trail that is in the natural wood before it enters the black field and wizard's cape. Either sand all the surrounding wood, or tone the repair to match the old wood.
3. Spray a light coat of clear to lock down any loose wood fibers.
4. Touch up where the paint is worn through. Do it any way you feel comfortable.
5. Scan and make up some waterslide decals to replace text on inserts.
6. Keep updating us on your progress.
Hey Vid, what about the ball trail in the paint? How would you handle that?
Quoted from vid1900:spray down a light coat of clear to lock down wood fibers, then start the repair.
Hey Vid, I didn't mean to let you off so easy. I don't think that you've covered a gouge in the PF yet, which the ball track basically is. So I'm thinking clear to lock the fibers down, touch up the paint, then level the track (gouge) with clear from an eyedropper? Or would you level it first then paint? I'd imagine frisket (and tape) for paint masking would perform best on a smooth surface? Will the eyedropper trick even work for this like it does for leveling PF inserts? Inquiring minds want to know.
Thanks Vid!
Vid, my new, reported HUO TSPP playfield was scratched to shit. The balls looked and felt like 320 grit sandpaper. Some good cutting polish knocked most of it down. The remaining scratches are visible only in the right light but I can feel them with my finger nail. How would you tackle them? More polishing, sand then polish, other? I'd like to hope I can avoid a new CC, for now at least.
Thanks!
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