(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

By vid1900

11 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

143 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #7 Playfield damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #8 Insert damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #34 How to sand your new inserts flat. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #35 Cleaning old glue out of the insert holes. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)


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#5900 5 years ago

I need some of your opinions, i have a whirlwind that im restoring, had mylar on it, was not bad maybe just one or two inserts bublled, and i had the bad decision to remove the mylar, i dont lose any of the paint, "just" inserts... Also ive check for my experience that freeze method works best for inserts than hairdryer... but ok, lets move on

1 - I have order some insert decals, that im going to scan and do some waterslide decals, my problem is that i dont have color laser printer, and some inserts have color on it... white also...
Question: any way to resolve that?

2 - After waterslide decals i dont have the tools to clearcoat with 2k.. small apartment
Options
* I have a small airbrush, i can clear locally and put a playfield protector.
* Use some substitute to clear 2k, non toxic option, and apply it, then protect with a good wax or a playfield protector
* waterslide decals, wax, playfield protector

3 - Goo gone to remove the mylar glue?

#5902 5 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Go to your local real hobby shop (not Hobby Locust) and have them print the decals for you. They can print white on their Alps printers.
If you wife has a Cricut, she can cut you masks that would let you do your white layer with an airbrush, then top with a decal.

So find someone who does.
Look on your local auto parts store bulletin board - there are a dozen backyard auto painters in every city.
No sense spending all those hours touching up a playfield, then put a crappy Poly or Waterbased topcoat that won't polish out like 2K, dull all your colors, and then will turn yellow (non-yellowing formula means it will certainly turn yellow).
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/16#post-1667109

Alcohol and baking flour works great, and won't remove paint.
Here is one I did a few weeks ago with a full playfield Mylar:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-hardtop-restoration-comet#post-4468664

1 - The masks are really really small... is almost impossible to do it i guess, maybe is the best way to search for local REAL hobby shop...

2 - I agree that the 2k option is the best, but i dont want to remove all the element on the playfield, maybe the best option is waterslide inserts and a playfield protector, if someone on the future wants to clearcoat is easy..

3 - Ive done the trick with baking flour and alcohol and take ages to remove it, this time maybe i´ll try goo gone.

#5904 5 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:There are tons of people on this forum who have used the Cricut & Cameo to cut tiny stencils.
They cut much smaller detail than a normal vinyl cutter

Yep, keep your local business in business.

It takes less than 20 minutes to completely strip a playfield top.

You could do that; they are around $100 and offer full protection for all the wear areas:
https://www.playfield-protectors.com/Home/Details/NiJmk4oYAEerDYBdGXrbWA?categoryid=22&category=-&name=Whirlwind%20%7C%201990

It all depends on if the Mylar is factory, aftermarket, or not even Mylar and just some mystery polyester film.
That Comet I did a few weeks ago was factory 1985 and it took less than a half hour to completely clean.
Your mileage will vary, lol

I also have a cameo... well i can try make something on the decals that have some color on it, paint the market area and place the black decal over it... is an option yes...

20 minutes? no way you can do that on all the machines, but i get your point for sure.. is not about time, but how you want things done..

Maybe i go that route, waterslide decals, a small local clear to fix them in place and a playfield protector...

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