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(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration


By vid1900

7 years ago



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  • Latest reply 11 hours ago by CryptKeeperAUS
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Topic index (key posts)

142 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #7 Playfield damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

Post #8 Insert damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

Post #34 How to sand your new inserts flat. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

Post #35 Cleaning old glue out of the insert holes. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)


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#4511 3 years ago

Is it normal for Frisket to leave some glue residue on the playfield after being cut and removed (and after painting?)?

I use the stuff the sell at Hobby Lobby, the first set was fine, but this second set will randomly leave glue residue on the playfield.

Is it possible for it to go bad?

I can clean it off with Naptha, but I don't like doing that right before spraying.

#4515 3 years ago
Quoted from tezting:

No, that is not the way it should work.
Do you know the brand? For how long has it been on the playfield before removed?

The brand is 'Grafix' it comes in 9x12 sheets (6 to a package ). My first package was a bit more matte (which i purchased from Hobby Lobby and did NOT leave any noticeable amounts of glue) while the new package I am working with I got from Amazon (its clear vs matte) and seems to be what I am having issues with:
amazon.com link »

I very gently heat-setting it before removing the frisket (not sure what sort of damage too much heat can do to both the acrylic paint ant the frisket)- probably not enough as my paint was in some places too thick and not quite cured. I think in the future I should wait until after frisket is removed before heat-setting?

I thought that too much heat was the problem the first time this came up. But I did some tests and even when removing the cut-out sections of freshly placed frisket (before spraying anything), I've had some glue residue sticking to the playfield.

#4516 3 years ago
Quoted from tdiddy:

I've had this problem in the past. Are you heat setting your paint? I noticed if I heat set and then remove right away I get glue residue. But if I wait 5 minutes for everything to cool back down I don't have the problem.

Hmm...that's a good idea. I will try test that out AND get some new frisket paper just in case this is from a 'bad batch' too!

#4517 3 years ago
Quoted from No_Skill:

I had this issue when I used high tack frisket and left it on for a few days. Nightmare to remove and lesson learned.

Yeah, I've been nervous about keeping the frisket on for too long. This problem has happened even before heat - setting and when being applied for only a few minutes for cutting. I think that the heat-setting, removal right after heat-setting, and then leaving the frisket on for 3 days (just once thought due to some work travel) all did their bit to contribute.

#4518 3 years ago

Okay another idiot question here. Createx paints. I'm hoping that Vid and some other experts here can provide some feedback on what I'm doing wrong.

A couple of issues going on that may be all related.

First, even when sanding the surfaces with a good 400 grit and removing all gloss, the Createx is not really adhering as well to the surface as I expected it. It's still fairly elastic and can be pulled up or scraped off in some areas fairly easy. For sharp areas like flame tips, some of the paint often comes off with the Frisket (even when I pull "against it" but with some angles there are no good directions to pull against, and I always remove at a low angle so as to not lift paint).

Is this normal?

Second, I am getting some pretty awful wrinkling with some areas (but not all). These areas were all cleaned in the same way and shot at the same time, yet when Spraymax 1k is applied with a thin coat, some places wrinkled, and others did not.

My theory is that the wrinkling may be caused by too much water still present in the Createx acrylic (not completely cured) and the reason for this is that in the areas where it did wrinkle I applied the Create too thick and did not effectively heat set it.

I'm in the process of stripping it all off right now, but before I start spraying again I want to have some confidence that this might be the issue so I don't have to repeat making the same dumb mistake!

You can see how bad it was in the blue, but also note the inner portion of the arrow (orange part) which was the first time I saw this. The yellow went on perfectly.

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#4519 3 years ago

Just to clarify, only SOME areas of the blue wrinkled, other areas were fine. With the orange, 95% of it was fine except for one of those "inner arrows". If my memory is good, these were areas that I might have given more attention to with the air brush thus my theory of the too thick paint/not cured/heat set and therefore reacting.

Photos here are what I had going on (yellow, orange and blue) - now starting over!

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#4526 3 years ago
Quoted from SteveinTexas:

Sorry if I missed the part about using 1k clear not 2k clear.
I use 1k for general clear of cabinets etc it's fine. I have never used for playfields over createx paints. Do we know how hot it is?

I don't. I checked their website but couldn't find anything that helped me understand what it might react with. I assumed that it was less than the 2k, but not sure.

#4527 3 years ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

I use Createx and an Iwata 5mm and even though I was suggested to shoot straight from the bottle (especially with 5mm at 40psi), I had more success thinning the paint to milk+ consistency with my special mix of water, 99% alcohol and flow improver.

Would you be willing to share your secret formula? ? I shot white last night and it was the consistency of white glue! Ever tried the Createx reducer?

#4528 3 years ago
Quoted from packie1:

I can't give an answer for the paint not holding other than when I had that problem, I cleaned it off and did very very very light coats of paint. After I shot a coat and was happy with it, I would quickly flash dry it. I ran a hair dryer on high for a very short time waving it over the wet paint. I then shot another light coat and flashed dried it again. I noticed that it was colors such as white that seemed to cause the most issues.
Now for the wrinkles, I only had this happen once and it was because I used my Harbor Freight gun right out of the box. I cleaned up my gun and my wrinkles, broke down the gun and clean all the parts with the highest strength rubbing alcohol I could find. I then reassembled the gun, loaded it with more rubbing alcohol and shot out quite a bit of it. I emptied the gun of alcohol and loaded paint and shot again. No wrinkles.
I have also switched to Golden High Flow Arcylic Paints. I have had more luck with them.
Just my 2 cents.

Thank you. I actually sprayed white last night using this approach, which is what I should have done in the first place! The more I think about it, I do think I was rushing it and assumed that since the paint was dry to the touch it was cured.

#4541 3 years ago
Quoted from arolden:

Did you manage to figure out what was causing your first issue?

No, I haven't. I have some theories:

1: Combining Wicked Colors with Createx may be a problem. I assumed that given their common producer that Wicked is just a different brand name for wilder colors. It turns out they seem to be designed for different applications. I won't mix them next time!

2. Add even more "tooth". I hit my surface with 400 grit, but probably not enough

3. Laid down too thick. This is the most likely suspect. More light coats. Heat set better in between each. I did some white this way and. It seems to have stuck much better than my orange, which was a Createx/Wicked combo and applied in one coat vs multiple thinner coats.

If the problem persists I may switch to another brand if I can't figure it out.

#4543 3 years ago
Quoted from lb1:

3 is likely the culprit. I have had the same problem. Being in a hurry and trying to get coverage with one thick coat. It creates all sorts of problems particularly with raised edges. Not only does the surface tension pulls more paint towards the frisket paint, but the air flow also pushes more paint towards the edge.
Createx would be out of business if they sold two lines of acrylic paint that are incompatible without extensive warnings.
400 grit is plenty for tooth. Createx paint is actually very sticky when the layer is thin. See how it's very hard to fully clean the airbrush cup.

Thanks. Good to know. Trying to eliminate every possibility, but that can also drive me crazy!

4 weeks later
#4624 3 years ago
Quoted from Hitch9:

I’m hoping for some help from Photoshop users /experts.
I’ve scanned the playfield parts that need to have decals and put it into photoshop.
Once in the scanned image, I outlined the area to be cleaned up, copied that area and added it to a layer. I then cleaned the image up in the layer.
Now I have several files with layers in them.
How do I now take all these images in layers, put them into one sheet and then print them to decal paper?
I also want to make several copies of one particular image that is used a lot on the playfield. Is that done by copy and paste ?
Thanks for any help.

I'm a lot better at Photoshop than playfield restorations, so maybe I can help.

It sounds like you have a Photoshop file with multiple layers of art you've modified and you want to know how to make all of your work into a single file (e.g get rid of layers) so you can print out decals?

There are a couple of things that might be useful for you based on your exact needs (there are many different ways to do what I think you want, so I'm just going to try and keep the simplest):

1. What you "see" in your photoshop file is what will print out. So you may not need to do anything at all. Note that you can 'turn off' the visibility (and thus not print) a layer by clicking on the 'eye' icon next to each layer. When you want it back, just click the eye again.

2. The above is not helpful if you want to align multiple layers next to each other and then work on them as one larger, combined layer rather than a bunch of separate layers. What I do is create a duplicate of the original photoshop file (just in case you need to go back to this step) select "save as" and create a new name for your file. Once you're in this new file (still with all the same layers from your original) you can align your separate layers or whatever you need to do, and then when you are happy, cmd-click to select all the layers you want to combine and then right click and then select "merge layers" from the menu that appears. Another method would be to "flatten image" which is in the "edit" drop down menu (I think, might be under "layers" instead). Either of these will combine the layers if you want to edit them all in one 'image' or layer.

3. You can save your photoshop file as a jpeg, png or a PDF file if you need to by going to "File" "Export" then usually "Save for web" and then select the file format you want to use. Similar to #2 above this will 'combine' all your layers (that are visible- as in #1 above) into a single jpeg, etc... file. To save as a PDF you select "Save as" in the "File" menu and then in the dialog box select "photoshop pdf" as your file type (you can uncheck all the options to keep layers or retain original Photoshop editing abilities to reduce the file size).

I hope this helps. The options and menus might be slightly different depending on what version of PS you are using and your operating system.

#4626 3 years ago

Hi Vid

I picked up a cheap Sinbad which I can use for parts. The playfield was in good shape for the most part, but absolutely filthy.

My question is related to these pockmarks in the shooter lane and the "rut" along the top arch.
These photos are after a simple surface cleaning.
They seem to be very small holes in the clear where dirt has accumulated.

I would assume that the right approach would be to start with ME and alcohol. If that doesn't work, I suppose the only way to remove the dirty spots/holes and fix the upper arch ball rut is to sand it down.

Is that the right approach? Is there a better solution I am missing?

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