(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

By vid1900

7 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 6,845 posts
  • 640 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by La_Porta
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Topic index (key posts)

142 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #7 Playfield damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

Post #8 Insert damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

Post #34 How to sand your new inserts flat. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

Post #35 Cleaning old glue out of the insert holes. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

Post #38 Prime the insert with 3M Plastic Primer before gluing. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

Post #60 Repairing Insert Ghosting - fill, clean, remove bubbles, cover. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

Post #61 Repairing Insert Ghosting - clamp overnight. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

Post #76 Source for needles - https://www.dispensinglink.com/needles.html Posted by rancegt (7 years ago)

Post #84 Air brush information. Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#1429 5 years ago

Ok vid, have you ever "reconditioned" a pf versus rehabbing one? In other words, I have a decent playfield that I just want to play on without further deteriorating it's condition, although I would like to touch-up some areas that need a bit of attention.

If I touch-up areas around the inserts with glossy black paint, it'll stand out like the proverbial "sore thumb" from the other, duller blacks on the pf. Should I use a matte black instead - and does creatix paint make matte products?

I am also hoping to re-paint areas of decals on inserts that have worn away a bit, but again, don't want it to be "shiny new noticeable" versus the unpainted portions of the insert decals. The areas touched-up WILL be getting mylar placed over them.


#1438 5 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Once you put Mylar over your repairs, it won't matter if the orig paint was gloss or matte.
Createx is matte when it dries, but glossy after the clearcoat (or Mylar).

Thanks! That's what I needed to know.

#1477 5 years ago

Vid, can you use a clothes iron to heat the topside of an insert when removing mylar?

Of course, I'd put a cloth down between the mylar and iron - I'm having trouble with the mylar lifting the paint from the plastic inserts, otherwise, it is coming up fine with just me gently pulling it off - would this help, or is it possible that the insert decals are just too far gone and brittle??

#1479 5 years ago

Thanks vid, I'll try the iron, I have no idea where this pin has been - but it's been around and has seen some weather (a guess due to the rust in places)....

For now, I've cut around the inserts, leaving the mylar in place over them until I either a) get new decals or b) figure out a way to re-create decals that I need - I'm minus the hand-held scanner..........and I'll try heating the inserts with the iron to see if that helps........but not too hot.......

#1486 5 years ago

Thanks BJM-Maxx, I've seen those - will try the iron first and report back, the mylar is lifting what looks like a thin coat of the plastic right off the top of the inserts (along with the print) so will try to heat/melt it just ever so slightly, I think it's just the age of the plastic...........man, this pf stuff is NOT fun, this will be my first and last resto!!!

#1504 5 years ago

amazon.com link »

This look like a good purchase for someone using an airbrush say five times every 10 years!!!!???

3 weeks later
#1614 5 years ago

Two questions:

Anyone ever use spray paint for simple "colors" like black and white?

Anyone re-mylar a playfield - looking for hints before I do mine.


#1615 5 years ago

Another question about water-slide decals, it seems the fusers on laser printers often catch this type of paper and melt it! Anyone had this happen to them?

Anyone use the inkjet water slides? How did you like the results?

Thanks again.

#1617 5 years ago

Thanks Tezting.

#1620 5 years ago

Thanks Spaceport, I am concerned about ruining a large copier - will probably print the b/w with laser and the color (which are not many) at home on ink jet - I do know about spraying the inkjet sheets - thanks for the "heads up" on that.

#1624 5 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Print waterslide decals the moment the copier is turned on in the morning. That way the fuser will not be hot yet.
LaserJet inks usually fade quickly on playfield decals.

Thanks Vid, problem is this copier stays "on" but I imagine it is quite cool once it goes into "standby" - will give it a shot - I can't mess this fuser up if you know what I mean

#1636 5 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Usually I remove Mylar, Magic Eraser, and scrape paint off worn inserts .
Then I put down a light coat of clear.

Are you roughing the areas that you are painting so you have a good "grip" for the paint? Won't painting directly onto the clear layer your sprayed down inhibit good adhesion of your new paint?



#1643 5 years ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

Usually I remove Mylar, Magic Eraser, and scrape paint off worn inserts .
Then I put down a light coat of clear.

Actually, VID said the above - my last post quoted his plus mine....anyway - here's my question///////

Are you roughing the areas that you are painting so you have a good "grip" for the paint?

Won't painting directly onto the clear layer your sprayed down inhibit good adhesion of your new paint?

I just started putting down white on the "unseen" areas covered by gi/plastics, and if I rub the white with my fingernail, it will come off???? Should I lightly sand these areas that I'm painting?

(I'm not clearcoating, painting directly on the pf - will be using whole mylar over pf and worried about mylar lifting and taking paint with it??!!)



#1646 5 years ago

Thanks Vid, wow, so now I am back full-circle to clear-coating!!!

I will finish the white at least, as it looks like so many posts, etc. will be installed overtop of it so as to help hold down the mylar - as for the rest of the pf, it may just have to remain....

Although I have already removed the pf light decals, most of them lifting with the old Mylar, would using Rustoleum "Varathane Interior Diamond Wood Finish (Water-Based)" be an acceptable alternative for spraying over the new decals and painted areas? I know this product takes 24hrs to dry, but that's ok.



#1648 5 years ago

Okaaay - hmmm......would you have any suggestions for alternatives? I know there is a canned version of the auto clear.....

Thanks Vid.

#1653 5 years ago

Ok, got it.........see what I can do.

Vid, have a great Holidays, you're a damn nice guy to post all this help and deal with the myriad of problems all of us throw your way!!

Merry Christmas -


#1655 5 years ago

No, it's not!!! *($*# I'm not even doing a full-resto, just trying to spruce it up so I can finally PLAY the damn thing!

Was going to go the Playfield Protector route, but even THOSE are sold-out for my game. Yeah, no more "fixer uppers for me!"

2 weeks later
#1676 5 years ago

Hey vid, just a heads up about the Createx paint - it definitely dries DARKER than the original mix.

I just spent a couple hours touching-up my playfield, exact color matches were drying darker. It was a pain to watch exact color mixed paint turn dark when dried!!!

You'll need to mix the color a noticeable shade lighter and then apply and watch for the correct match once it dries on the pf.

Have a great New Year -


#1679 5 years ago

Yeah, sorry to hear that the paint doesn't "dry as applied" - I had read about people experiencing that problem earlier in this thread, so just thought I would update the thread with this helpful bit of information after tyring it out myself.........maybe someone can discover a similar quality paint that will dry as applied....??

Best, Nate

#1700 5 years ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

I'm not so sure anything has changed. I wanted to ask the poster who said Createx was "drying darker" : What are they spraying on and letting dry for the color match? A "White" material?

No, no I'm applying directly to the color on the playfield that I'm matching, I wouldn't post a comment about the paint drying darker than mixed unless I had absolute proof from playfield results. It DOES dry darker. Just a heads up......


#1706 5 years ago
Quoted from cody_chunn:

I didn't see a section on polishing mylar. Is it mentioned in there somewhere?

I don't think it's mentioned, but you can polish, just use something like headlight cleaner......

Someone else asked about what new mylar looks like. I will be using a full sheet of mylar on my Taxi will post a photo here - I also have a Taxi restore thread going that it will appear on.....

1 week later
2 years later
#3963 2 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

^ Nice work and great step by step!

Seconded, good job bro!! Esp. for a first-timer!!!

2 years later
#6361 11 months ago

Ok Vid, give me a solution. After applying mylar, for some reason 3 areas decided they were going to "cinch up" and not adhere, causing a bubble-like tube to form. At first I scored the mylar, then cut away some of the lifted area, but the bubbling would migrate more so I stopped. What type of adhesive should I use to shoot into those areas to make the gd thing stick?? If I run my finger over the bubbled area it sticks nice n flat, but only for about 30 seconds, so some type of adhesive should work, I have water-thin crazy glue but that may be too watery for this?? Thanks.

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