Bobby Orr's Power Play
Bally, 1978
Gilligan's Island
Bally, 1991
Space Jam
Sega, 1996You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider packie1.
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Quoted from vid1900:You can always get Omni MC 151 at NAPA stores, same stuff, but with a different label to protect the PPG only stores.
Checked online and on Google this is not available. Any other brands? Also I am starting a restore and need to fill some inserts with clear, what would be the best way to make a small batch to accomplish this?
Mike
Quoted from vid1900:Also I am starting a restore and need to fill some inserts with clear, what would be the best way to make a small batch to accomplish this?
Mike
vid,
I looked at the insert clearing section and have one more question. After I fill the inserts, do I sand to flatten? Or do i apply the first light coat of clear to the whole PF and sand the entire PF?
I think the second way would create a ring around the insert as i assume the clear I applied with an eyedropper would be thicker than my first light coat on the PF. Please let me know which way is best.
Mike
Vid,
I have a quick (i hope)question. I have applied my first layer of clear before applying decals and airbrushing and have sanded with 800 grit to knock down the shine and look for low spots. I have the following and was wondering if I keep sanding till these shiny spots are gone or do I fill with clear( either another spray coat or spot coats on the playfield? any suggestions would be great.
Thanks
Mike
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Vid,
Wanted to drop a line and tell you thanks for this great tutorial! I have been working on my Firepower II for the past 3 weeks and am about done with all my repairs. One thing that I did try was replacing the thrust on 2 of the space ships which had off white planking and serious black speckling on the edges that I decided not to air brush them but apply decals over the damage. Here are a couple pics, one before20150101_115020.jpg and one after20150101_115903.jpg. Since I used a white decal, I had to touch up the edges with transparent air brush black paint(not shown in the after picture). I know there is some smaller planking on the ships, but I did not want a full "Right from the Factory look" and this is my first attempt and wanted to build my confidence so I will tackle future restorations. I think it came out nice and will now apply 2 light dustings of clear and then seal it for final sanding and polishing.
Thanks again!
Mike
Vid,
Thanks for helping me bring this Firepower 2 back to life. I started this way back in October with a good machine with a horrible PF. I was able to get another PF, but it needed some help as well.
I scraped off old worn letterings on decals. Scan the PF and photoshopped the bad parts and made new decals. I clear coated the PF, applied decals , airbrushed some worn spots and cleared the PF. I polished it to where I thought it needed to be and reinstalled all the parts. I plugged in everything today and smiled at a great looking job. Oh and I played the heck out of it. I have 3 pics, 2 from today and 1 from when I picked up the machine with the original PF.
Thanks again, can't wait to start my next project.
Mike
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2012-11-25 15.26.08.jpgTry the golden paints website. They have a virtual paint mixer which will let you upload an image to pick colors. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.goldenpaints.com/mixer&ved=0CFcQjBAwFmoVChMI6o_5sPb6yAIVBTs-Ch14RQwJ&usg=AFQjCNEyphAfcGXu7yPxwf9OylqZyCWcrg
I know it will show their paints but it can be a good guidea to help you mix a close match.
I bought the Createx Opaque Airbrush set and first tried using a paintbrush but the brush strokes were too visible so I thought what the hell and bought an HF airbrush.
I just can’t get the right marine blue as the original one and you can still see some of the underlying woodgrain. It gets even worse when I try to do the little lighter bleu line in between…
I tried mixing the color several times but it always end up too “flat” compare to PF factory shinny bleu, is there something I am
Quoted from vid1900:If the white is glossy enough for the decal to stick, you might be able to skip the clear.
Thanks I will give that a try this weekend.
Please see my forum titled Bally Eight Ball Restoration for Charity Event by packie1 to see what I am up to.
Thanks vid for all your help.
Quoted from heypat:anyone in the shelby township / Utica area in Michigan that is good at matching paint. I have my first coat of clear down and cannot match the paint on the man and women on my jungle lord. its driving me nuts!
Try the golden paints website. They have a virtual paint mixer which will let you upload an image to pick colors. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.goldenpaints.com/mixer&ved=0CFcQjBAwFmoVChMI6o_5sPb6yAIVBTs-Ch14RQwJ&usg=AFQjCNEyphAfcGXu7yPxwf9OylqZyCWcrg
I know it will show their paints but it can be a good guide to help you mix a close match.
Quoted from quinntopia:Just to clarify, only SOME areas of the blue wrinkled, other areas were fine. With the orange, 95% of it was fine except for one of those "inner arrows". If my memory is good, these were areas that I might have given more attention to with the air brush thus my theory of the too thick paint/not cured/heat set and therefore reacting.
Photos here are what I had going on (yellow, orange and blue) - now starting over!
I can't give an answer for the paint not holding other than when I had that problem, I cleaned it off and did very very very light coats of paint. After I shot a coat and was happy with it, I would quickly flash dry it. I ran a hair dryer on high for a very short time waving it over the wet paint. I then shot another light coat and flashed dried it again. I noticed that it was colors such as white that seemed to cause the most issues.
Now for the wrinkles, I only had this happen once and it was because I used my Harbor Freight gun right out of the box. I cleaned up my gun and my wrinkles, broke down the gun and clean all the parts with the highest strength rubbing alcohol I could find. I then reassembled the gun, loaded it with more rubbing alcohol and shot out quite a bit of it. I emptied the gun of alcohol and loaded paint and shot again. No wrinkles.
I have also switched to Golden High Flow Arcylic Paints. I have had more luck with them.
Just my 2 cents.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Do you need to thin that paint to airbrush it? If so, what do you use and in what proportion?
I normally do not thin it. Shoot straight from the hip. hehe. I notice other different comments on other paints, my suggestion is to always test your paints and your airbrush. I do this with each different paint i use. I now have a general idea of which paints to thin (if I feel I need to thin) and how much pressure and how the paint flows. Hate to say it but I also take the outside weather in effect when painting as well.
Quoted from lb1:Golden High Flow (https://www.goldenpaints.com/products/colors/high-flow) have colors that are very close to Cyan and Magenta. There're Teal and Fluorescent pink.
I know that I have posted this before in this thread but I have had nothing but good results with Golden airbrush paints and they have a color match program that I use all the time for good results.
"Try the golden paints website. They have a virtual paint mixer which will let you upload an image to pick colors. http://www.goldenpaints.com/mixer
Make sure after you pick a color out of your image to select the fluid colors as those are the airbrush colors. Now when I say air brush colors, I am saying that these colors are thinner and work well in an airbrush.
I know it will show their paints but it can be a good guide to help you mix a close match."
Quoted from tomds:I'm in the process of re-painting this playfield. I'm airbrushing createx paints, but I'm struggling to get anywhere near the peach colour round the pop bumpers. Any tips on which colours to try mixing to get this?
Try this. I would go 3
May have to adjust as I was going off your pic and it needed a little more light.
Mike
Quoted from DropTarget:Mike,
Am i missing something obvious? What do those ratios mean?
An Art teacher explained this to me.
She told me that it is the ratio of color to white. The color being made by 10 yellow, 10 red and 80 white. Then the "tints" are created by adding more white to the color.
It may not still be perfect, but it will be a better starting point. So mix that up put it in your airbrush and shoot a small spot. Let it dry (do not heat dry it) and see how it looks. If you have followed Vid's advise,you should have a base of clear on your playfield. With the Base clear, you can shoot and shoot color and wipe off what doesn't look right. Give that a try. Trust me, I am bad with color matching and my wife got frustrated looking at colors, so I ended up with this method.
Here is a Bally eight ball where I matched the green. Did the whole thing to make sure no color difference.
Quoted from DropTarget:Started the touch up. After all the stressing about color matching, I started out by using the GoldenPaints web site to get a basic recipe. Dayum if it wasn't waaaaaaay off. So, I just played with the mix, added different colors that weren't in the recipe, but that my eye told me that it needed. I think I came very close to the original green on the PF. Very satisfying. There were a few times that I thought it was a goner, but persistence payed off.
Here is a before and after sample.
The green is much closer in person than the pics show, you can tell that the "after" pic is bluer than the "before" pic. as I took the pic with my camera, while the "before" was from a scanner.
I'm starting to believe!!!
Damn Sorry the mix did not work out well for you. Did you make sure to select Fluid colors? The program likes to default to the heavy bodies, and I always have to switch. But you are correct that you still have to play with it, but it does put you in the ballpark. Looks good.
Quoted from DropTarget:Me either.
I'm going to have to spray the entire PF. Yes, a real pain, especially for my 1st attempt. The real time consuming thing is cleaning up the scan, in order to create vector art for my Silhouette machine to cut the stencils. I know I could use Frisket, but hell, I have this cutter so why not use it. Lots of curves to cut, I'd rather not freehand it. On the plus side, since I'm doing the entire play field, there is a little room for error in lining things up.
Again I have done the same thing with the eightball PF. Using a cutter saves time and headaches. I also cut some more difficult images for spraying and it took a lot of pressure off doing it by hand.
Quoted from DropTarget:..... getting there.....
Looks nice. Keep at it!
Quoted from DropTarget:SO....
I'm getting ready to bring my PF to the auto body shop to clear over the new art. But before I do that, I need to clean up the art just a bit. There is a small amount of over spray on it. Do you recommend redoing the areas that are over sprayed? Should the new art get sanded before shooting the clear, if so that may take care of the over spray. Also, how bad do brush marks look once clear coated, I had to do a bit of brushing.
Thanks again to the group for all of the help and support.
As far as the overspray, are you referring to clear overspray or paint? If paint, you could lightly scrap that paint away. Once you clear there is no turning back without lots of heartache. If the overspray is noticeable, you may want to fix it. As this is your first time, you won't catch everything. Most times I see the flaws and no one can.
I do not sand my paint, I take it to clearcoat.
As for hand brushing, I cant say as I airbrush, but I have seen hand brushed work and it looks good if done right.
Move forward!!
Quoted from DropTarget:Yes, it's paint over spray. I'll either try to scrape it off, or reshoot the area with the underlying color. There are a few mistakes, it's not perfect, but so far I'm pretty satisfied for my 1st attempt. It's been great learning experience. I probably should have started with a simpler project with less damage.
Here's a picture from last night, I've cleaned it up a bit since then but still some more to do before clearing. All of that ugly planking is gone.
-W
Looks very nice. Can't wait to see the clear. Don't forget after your clear is applied, you need to let it sit to harden. I know Vid recommends waiting until you can't smell clear anymore. I agree as well. The temptation to jump back into it is great but you must resist young Padawan.
Mike
I tend to eval the rails on my machines. If I think they suck bad, I have access to a woodshop and make new ones from oak or maple. Depends on the game. I have painted them to match the game, I have stained them and cleared them. Like I said it really depends on my mood and the condition of the rails.
New rails on this Eight Ball
Mike
Quoted from pinzrfun:Ok, so thanks to this thread I bought a couple cans of 2Pac, an airbrush, some Createx paints, frisket, circle template, etc, and I'm going to take a shot at touching up my Stingray. The center "ADVANCE" graphic is half gone and though I don't have a scanner, I think i can find close enough text online to make a water slide decal.
My question is, how would you guys do this? I'll lay down a coat of clear before I start, but if I were to repaint the white in rhe middle and lay down an ADVANCE decal, the white will stand out like a sore thumb compared to the other 40 year old paint. And repainting those white scores seems daunting.
And if I wanted to re-spray the red area, it would seem like a huge amount of work to lay down frisket and cut around all of those score graphics (not to mention it would look like hell, I'm guessing).
But is that how the pro's would do it? Just lay down red over everything and make water slide decals for the text and numbers? Should I make circle decals for the keylines or put down frisket and actually cut circles and spray? I don't have a laser printer so I'll have to get decals printed at Kinkos or a hobby shop.
I expect to learn a LOT in the next week or three and will document everything, for better or worse.
If this is all you are planning to do, I would scan the letters and pick complete whole letters to use one of the many what is my font websites to find a match. The letters can then be made and printed on decal paper. Or you can scan other letters on the PF and have decals of those letters made. I would then scan the white area and use as a guide to lay down the letters.
As for white area, I would use frisket to mask it off, blend an aged white, and spray the white. For the red, I would match the red, and use the wipe method to insert the red into the planked areas.
If you are not going to clear the entire PF, I would apply a light coat of clear to the paint, let it dry, apply the decals for the ring and letters, light clear again. If you can swing a third coat, do that in satin. IF this repair is not too high compared to the rest, I would stop here, wax the PF and enjoy.
I am sure Vid or others will have different methods, just my option based on what I see here. You could just do the paint touchups, apply decals, gently apply wax to this area and the rest of the PF and apply mylar over the whole area extending beyond the wear spot.
Again half one way and half of another.
Mike
Quoted from DropTarget:perhaps, or maybe thats just what they did on 1969. I probably won't glue them, especially on top of the clear.
I have done PFs from the 60s,70s and 80s. No glue ever, just screws. That is for the big 3, Bally, Williams and Gottlieb.
Quoted from DropTarget:I just got my Mini Pool PF back from the auto body shop. They did a very good job clear coating it. Total cost 125.00
I do have a question about how to proceed. You can see the area where the first lock down layer of clear had lifted. I did the touch ups, then sealed the entire pf again. Of course that left a rather large low area. Would you suggest attempting to sand the whole PF down to that level and spraying another layer of clear or just level everything else then fill the low spot like you would when filling inserts and then leveling everything?
Thanks
-Wayne
See if the Auto Body place will give you some clear. Then rough up the area of the low spot and fill with clear. Fill a little over the other area, so you will sand down to the rest of the playfield. Use more clear to fill other holes or low spots as well. Vid has a section on this. Looks good. You did good, young Skywalker.
Mike
Quoted from CaptainNeo:I didn't do that field.
HA HA my bad!
Mike
Quoted from DropTarget:Well,
After being away for a few weeks, I finally repopulated my Mini Pool PF.
Here's a pic......
Now to figure out where the short is! No PF lights, fuse blows immediately.
Nice work!! Cant wait to see it lit up !
Mike
Anyone have any opinions on 1-Shot Lettering Enamels? I recently saw a post about using them for playfield touchups and something about a Tom Considine who does remarkable work with playfield artwork repair. I have never seen or heard of either. I may be too out of the loop I guess. Just curious.
Mike
Quoted from vid1900:Super fast drying oil paint that stinks up the whole shop, make SURE you wear a chem-mask.
It even has a warning not to use it in a house.
Ok I got that but is it worth it to use? I have had great luck with the airbrush paints.
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:Are you powering the scanner when you plug it in or just inserting the USB. The scanner needs to be on. What OS are you using? I had problems on a Win7 laptop having it recognize it and it turned out the USB ports on the right side were the problem but the left side worked.
Yeah Can't plug a USB 2.0 device into a USB 3.0 Slot ( has a blue insert on the computer side or will say 3.0). Sometimes devices can to plugged into 3.0 but best results are to plug it into the slot it was designed for.
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:Not sure what you mean, USB 3 is expressly intended to be backwardly compatible with USB 2, you can plug devices into whatever you want if it fits. USB C is different though. In my case it would not work in my USB 2 ports, it would only work in the USB 3 port even thought the scanner is USB 2.
Yeah you would think so, but we manage over 1000 devices and have seen it work both ways. It might depend on software, vendor etc.
Quoted from packie1:Yeah you would think so, but we manage over 1000 devices and have seen it work both ways. It might depend on software, vendor etc.
I also have this scanner and it works on my laptop running win 7 64 bit using the original driver. I now have the scanner plugged into my win 10 64 bit ASUS and it uses the native Win 10 scanner driver. It scans to win 10 scan software, didn't load the HP driver. If you have can find a close pinsider with an HP scanner, maybe they can test your unit for you.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Well now, that would be mighty handy to have access to.
How would someone get access to this color information?? Would this be a case for the CIA? They seem to know about getting hidden information.
Question that I seem not to get a good answer anywhere I check.
I am in the middle of a Secret Service restore and I need to see if I can polish the mylar that covers the playfield. It is dull and I will be putting alot into it for that area not to be brightened up to match.
I read about Treasure Cove, but all their stuff is sold out and I saw reviews on both sides of the fence. Then I looked at using Maguires polishing compounds and heard things like "will burn through the Mylar" and " no big difference"
Any help out there?
Mike
Quoted from pinballinreno:Matching for touchups is always very difficult and takes some experience.
Most restores find a good or better match and just airbrush the whole playfield color instead of spot touchups.
I know that I have posted this before in this thread but I have had nothing but good results with Golden airbrush paints and they have a color match program that I use all the time for good results. I have substituted Createx paints as long as the general color is the same.
This method may not be an exact match but it helps me get a good start in the right direction. Way better than pour a little of this and a little of that and guess.
"Try the golden paints website. They have a virtual paint mixer which will let you upload an image to pick colors. http://www.goldenpaints.com/mixer
Make sure after you pick a color out of your image to select the fluid colors as those are the airbrush colors. Now when I say air brush colors, I am saying that these colors are thinner and work well in an airbrush.
I know it will show their paints but it can be a good guide to help you mix a close match."
Quoted from vid1900:Maybe.
Comet was made by a couple of different vendors, so even when brand new, one Comet's grey might not match another.
The original films have been recovered by PPS, so in theory, you could read the Pantone color code from the films and see if they both spec the same grey
You mentioned this before about the Pantone colors, where do you find these? I checked the PPS site and did not see anything posted. Also is there a site that lists all the years Pantone colors?
Mike
Quoted from Silverstreak02:After[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Super Job!!
Quoted from wolffcub:It’s all 100% paint.
Then was it stencils for all the artwork or freehand?
Quoted from Atari_Daze:Unless you're going to do a full restore, your assumption above is what I would do.
You could try Vid's tip and epoxy from the underside and press the inserts back down. this would at least stop the ball from hopping over the arrows.
Just a suggestion.
Mike
Question?
If I wanted to save the mylar covering a playfield, is there a way to deal with the air bubbles that have formed between the mylar and the playfield? I am not sure if this was addressed earlier. I really cannot risk removing the mylar on this game, so I need to deal with the air bubbles. Any way to flatten them?
Mike
Quoted from vid1900:If the bubbles are more than a year old, you probably won't be able to get them to stick back down.
If they just happened (like you had a pin in a freezing garage for a few weeks), you can try a household iron with a 100% cotton pillowcase to protect mylar
It's "Transporter - the rescue", So the bubbles are old, it was stored in not the best conditions but the playfield is damn near perfect. Looks like a good cleaning, waxing and call it a Rescue! (couldn't resist that!)
Thanks
Mike
Quick Question. I have sanded these kick out holes with 150 and then 220 grit and cant seem to get the ground in dirt out. I have no issue going to a lower grit, but am curious to see what others are doing to remove these. I also do not want to enlarge the saucers if I go down to low a grit.
Mike
InkedPXL_20210616_005250680_LI (resized).jpgQuoted from pinballinreno:Its tough. You have to draw it out.
Magic eraser. Silly putty, RTV sealant, various bleaching compounds etc. Tons of things have been tried.
Its a crap shoot.
Pro's just paint them with wood color base, then clear over it.
I am not a pro, but I have painted some in the past. Don't like the look. Almost looks a little plastic like. I also tried wood stain, but sometimes you have to go dark in order to hide the dirt and then that throws off the look as well. Maybe better to leave it as it is.
Open for any other suggestions.
Mike
Quick thoughts out there from everyone.
I have a Bally Transporter where the playfield is in good shape. Small amount of wear and mylar over 80% of the main PF. I have cleaned it and polished the mylar. I am happy with it, but have the wording on the 2 outlanes and the ball launcher that is worn or missing. Would it be better to leave it as is or attempt to section off that area, apply decals and clear over trying to feather that clear into the old finish? As I write this I think I know the answer.
Mike
PXL_20210624_121902501 (resized).jpgQuoted from vid1900:Feathering always chips (just like on a car), so it would be best to clear over the entire playfield after you repair the damage.
Thanks Vid but with Mylar over 80% of the playfield and its in good shape, I think i will just clean up everything else and play it as it.
Thanks
Mike
Quoted from Mathazar:pinballinreno - I can't thank you enough for recommending Unscrew-Ums. I ordered a few sized bits last week and they came in today. I'm happy to report that not only was I able to extract out the busted screw from the topside (in less than 5 minutes), there was virtually no damage to the hole. After the screw came out, I just re-drilled the pilot hole to the correct size, applied a dab of screw wax, and I'm back in business. I just finished the rest of the topside posts as well.[quoted image]
Can i ask what sizes you picked up and which one did you use on that screw?
Thanks
Mike
Quoted from RightNut:Question. If this has been answered, please point me to it.
For inserts that are still glued in place properly and level with the playfield, but either the wood has expanded or the insert has shrunk so there's a little gap around the top between the insert and the wood. What's the best way to fill that little gap in? [quoted image]
Throughout this post you can see the answer. Fill the gaps with clearcoat, sand and reapply if needed. I would look back and see any specific methods you might need depending on how much work you are planning on doing to the playfield.
Mike
Hello All:
Since we are on a small discussion on inserts....I recently epoxied some inserts that had fallen out and one had sunk a little too much on one side when the glue was setting.
I did'nt see it and now its glued in good.
Would the heat trick work on this insert as well? Too much drop to leave the way it is.
Mike
Quoted from vid1900:Post a pic, but most people would probably just drip in some clear to level the mis-glued insert
make sure you touch up the black keyline before you fill, so your eye does not get attracted to the repair
Vid
I may not be clearing the PF after I finish all the repairs. The guy wants the machine as close to orginial as possible. Here is a pic of the insert. I used a ruler to better show the amount of drop.
Mike
PXL_20220526_011942780 (resized).jpgQuoted from vid1900:Touch up the paint, put the playfield somewhere level, and drip in clear to level the inserts.
On old EMs, you can spray clear to protect your repairs, but just don't buff it out to full mirror. Stop buffing at the 2nd polish stage.
Looks vintage, but will last forever
Thanks Vid. Happen to have some pics of finished PFs? Would love to see some examples.
Mike
Quoted from pinballinreno:It might be time to revisit a technique to fix screw pops thru the playfield surface.
I just got a WWF in trade that has a screw pop that barely goes thru, but it makes a 1/2" circle sized bubble.
I beleive I can glue it from the bottom and clamp it down with my 12" c clamp to flatten it and put a mylar over the area while waiting for clearcoat.
Im hoping this will flatten it down so it doesnt get worse and chip out.
Can you show a pic of this? I cant seem to visualize the damage or your fix.
Thanks
Mike
Quoted from pinballinreno:More and more, people are direct printing these old playfields.
Intricate restorations are probably going out of style in favor of fast wearable surfaces that can be rapidly and cheaply re-inked.
Its not better, but faster and cheaper.
Where is that? Not a fan of cheap and quick, more curious about the process.
Mike
Quoted from pinballinreno:You need laser printers that use toner.
Toner is wax based.
This is why you can transfer it off of the paper or slippery substrate.
Dry transfer is exactly this method.
The printer should also support ghost white toner.
A large format t-shirt or fabric printer would be ideal.
Damn IT!!!
Hello All
Working on an old pin that the rubber rings have rotted and appear that they have melted and now I have little spitballs of old rubber on the playfield. Any way to clean these off? I have tried gently scrapping with plastic razor blade. It does take some off, but when I rub my hand over the PF, I can feel them still.
Thanks
Mike
Quoted from pinballinreno:Sand it all off, finish removing all the mylar and mechs you left on. Just let them hang by their wires and tape them up the masking tape.
You really cant do a good job if you leave the mylar and all the mechs in place....
Sand it totally flat.
Brush this stuff on thick enough to cover brush strokes, it will cover almost anything and is not as finicky as P2K, no respitator or spray booth needed, just brush it on:
amazon.com link »
Sand it flat and buff it off.
You have used this? The reviews on Amazon are okay but not great. Some of the pics of folk's work are bad. Do you have pics of PFs you did with this?
Mike
Quoted from pinballinreno:What I really like about that product is that you can easily repair chips and defects WAY after the fact.
It bonds very well to the cured product, unlike P2K.
Its nearly ideal for pinball and dries ROCK hard just like P2K. It also "dies" back like P2K.
You can also thin it out to "wick" it into cracks or loose chips.
It takes a bit longer to dry, but if your not in too much of a hurry, it works VERY well.
They also claim that it bonds to old P2K. I havent tried it yet, but it looks VER/Y promising for repairs.
So could I use it to fill missing clear holes with a pipette and it will self level to a point?
Mike
Quoted from vid1900:Lately, I've been using "Emerald" paint by Sherman Williams.
I roll the cab into the store, the broad 'computer matches' some unfaded section (like under the coin door), they have me out of there in 10 minutes.
If I need more paint in the future, I can order by the mix number on the can's lid.
Way cheaper than rattle cans, the color is an exact match, no toxic fumes and I can clean my gun out with water instead of Lacquer Thinner.[quoted image]
I am in the process of painting an Evel Knievel with Sherwin Williams paints as VID describes. Prep and how you treat all the different layers of paint makes the big difference. I love being able to paint in my basement with no fumes and clean up is a breeze. I had to thin down some of the colors for my spray gun, but no biggie. Here is the red during and after removing stencils.
Mike
PXL_20231107_004449771.MP (resized).jpgPXL_20231107_004459044.MP (resized).jpgPXL_20231107_012655158 (resized).jpgPXL_20231107_012659086 (resized).jpgQuoted from joshmc:I think the cracks in the shooter lane present a more challenging issue than what is described by vid1900 in that post. But maybe I’m wrong
I’m thinking that filling and painting the shooter lane is the only way to fix this however I don’t know what created colours I would need to match the colour of the wood
[quoted image]
I think you're over thinking this. I followed Vid directions and created this with just a darker color and a stencil for a Bally 8 ball.
Mike
IMG_5656 (resized).JPGQuoted from joshmc:Great idea! How far up does yours go? I.e. up around the arch at the top
worse after wiping with naptha. cracks are more prominent
Just that inner arrow in the shooter lane. I did not to attract too much attention to the shooter lane. Never thought about doing the arch. I assume you are referring to the wear that happens in that ball travel area. I know that I have seen older games where that portion was painted as part of the artwork. Never thought to try and revive that back on some newer titles. I may have to try that on an upcoming game.
Mike
Quoted from cookpins:What should I be looking for in the formula? And is this the brand you got off Amazon? I've not used it before but assume its all the same as Klean Strip[quoted image]
I use it all the time.
Mike
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