Thanks Vid for continuing to post. I appreciate your dedication and love reading this guide.
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Quoted from vid1900:Sand first and see where you are at.
But you may have to fill many of them with drops, because another coat might not level them out.
The pic makes them look close to the surface, so they might just sand out fine.
Vid is absolutely right! I had a playfield come out much like your picture when I pushed the clear in low temps. Thankfully 95% of them sanded out. You might get just as lucky!
Quoted from tezting:What happened to the last 5% ?
Vid's covered the sanding here, but for the last 5% I got out the 2PAC and the pipette's to fill 'em in one drop at a time. Live and learn. Never made that mistake again, and part of that reason is due to the fact that I follow Vid here on his restoration guide.
Now I'm expanding my horizon's by delving into Air Brushing instead of Acrylic brush fixes thanks to Vid.
Quoted from tezting:Starting to investigate the air bubble issue. ( https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/31#post-2045280 )
I am now in a warm and nice place. So I was filling up inserts with clear and there where starting to come air-bubbles again! This time it can not be the temperature.
So what is it?
1) The clear is "bad".
2) Applying to much product can course air bubbles? When I got air bubbles the first time my first layer was heavy (Last project I did light coats first) And when filling inserts there are also a lot of product?
3) Something I can't think of?
EDIT:
Or could it be me shaking the product too much?
PA-LEEZE tell us you aren't shaking it up.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Let me know when I can buy the book =)
F*@kin'-A! Just take my money now.
Whew - your black keyline doesn't look that bad, but when I saw that gray testors enamel under the ruler....yikes! It's nice that you want to correct this. Good Luck!
Quoted from vid1900:Tell him you will have other jobs for him (you want him to be your friend).
F*!KING A! LOL. Exactly. This is great advice!
Quoted from Frax:And of course, Createx would change their stuff right as I'm waiting for my first order to come in....
I'm not so sure anything has changed. I wanted to ask the poster who said Createx was "drying darker" : What are they spraying on and letting dry for the color match? A "White" material? Something LIGHTER than the playfield color? I think the base color underneath the createx affects how the final color turns out. At least for me it does. I try to lay my test color down on top of an identical shade of what I'm actually going to paint. It gives me a "truer" color - if this makes sense.
Quoted from PhilGreg:Yeah that's what I figure... a big spot would become noticeable, not a 1 or 2mm line...
Keep us updated with pics on that one Greg!
Quoted from vid1900:AIN Plastics
Grainger
Vid - I'm wondering if Dupli-Color's "Adhesion Promoter" would work as well? It's designed for plastics. Especially Urethane bumpers and such. I use it in Modeling. Spray it down as the base coat (it's clear, and hardens great) then I spray Dupli-Color's Self leveling automotive primer over that.
This creates a bond so that the final layer of paint cannot be pulled off when using masking agents like #M blue painters tape or friskets. Kinda sounds like what you're recommending. We use it in modeling because it goes on so thin and self levels so that fine details aren't lost in the buildup.
Dupli-Color products are available at all AutoZone or O'Reilly's parts stores.
On a side note, I've been experimenting with using Spies Hecker Acrylic Urethane paints on my playfield this month. After locking everything down with 2PAC, the S/H with reducer goes on and dries like a final finish. A very thin layer has incredible opacity. Pics to come later this month.
Quoted from swanng:Vid-
I've sent an email to the best restorer we both know to see if he thinks it can be corrected. Whether he would be willing to take this project on is another story....................
Greg
The best restorer I know started this thread. Some that I "thought" were great restorers use "touch up" techniques which Vid has pointed out doesn't cut it years down the road.
Quoted from xeneize:Mr. B:
Vid, what is your take on "carbon fiber adhesive"? What would you recommend product-wise?
Thanks!
Xeneize
Hope you don't mind if an old sailboat builder (and long time pinhead) chimes in here. Not sure why HEP is mysterious in his blog about "carbon fiber adhesive". But for bonding wood it's only West System 105 epoxy for me. I've seen Carbon Fiber products built using this resin, but for clinker sailboat building this is what we use with the ultra clear hardener. It's available at all West Marine stores.
It's manufactured by the Gougeon Brothers, and they have many videos on their websites showing exact how to use their materials.
http://www.gougeon.com
West System applied, and then using the brackets while it hardened would be the way to go. Once you take the brackets off the joint will be stronger than the wood around it. It won't break in the same place again. Cleans up with White Vinegar and is very safe to use.
Murphy
Quoted from bobnatlanta:Huh...masked off a bunch more areas and started painting again this afternoon. Somehow or other, I've got a TON of moisture in the paint or the line, or both. I've got the basic set up from harbor freight. What am I doing wrong? Do I need to add some kind of moisture filter?
While at Harbor Freight, you should pick up these:
http://www.harborfreight.com/disposable-inline-moisture-filter-68224.html
Mount it just before the gun. I buy the pro kind from FinishMaster. They are so cheap, I throw them away after every paint job.
The moisture in the compressor is sometimes hard to control based on humidity and also heat generated by the compressor itself. You can never have enough moisture traps.
Quoted from bobnatlanta:Thanks Murphy, but how do you attach that filter (or any filter) to this airbrush?
http://www.harborfreight.com/deluxe-airbrush-kit-95810.html
Bob - I feel your pain. I'm about 2 hours up the road from you, and for about 5 days now it's been incredibly rainy and humid.
Yes, you enlightened me with your airbrush link. My small iwata airbrush is powered by a Sparmax TC-620 compressor. My compressor has a built in moisture trap, though in this weather I'm not sure anything will completely help.
What compressor are you using sir?
Seeing your compressor you could certainly add an extra moisture barrier filter between the tank and the airline to the gun. You'd just have to find the right thread size. On the bright side - we're coming into paint season. Mid 70 highs and lower humidity.
I run a cheap dehumidifier in my shop.... it's always something.
Quoted from vid1900:5f25e14d-33f8-4bbe-81f5-b2be2d41ee7e_1000.jpg
Sorry Vid, but I have to disagree with your choice of a polyester resin. It stinks, it''ll burn your skin, your eyes, your lungs, doesn't wet out well, dries yellow or sometimes brown (if you need to have an exposed clear part), etc, etc. Yes, polyester is 1/2 the price, but it's not a true bonding agent. The SAFE way and STRONGER way to bond is with an epoxy resin like West System 105. Doesn't stink, you can get it on your skin and it doesn't burn, it cleans up easy with White Vinegar, wets out incredibly well, dries ultra clear with the right hardener, and with cheap West System fillers you can bond in vertical positions with no sag. No, I don't work for the Gougeon Brothers, but 20 years of wooden sailboat restorations teaches you a lot.
Has anyone ever taken all of just Vid's posts from this thread and consolidated them into one file for download?
Quoted from ajfclark:You can click the little person silhouette link on any post to filter to just to that user:
[quoted image]
e.g. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration?tu=vid1900
Thank you! I had no idea. Greatly appreciate you taking the time to show me that. : )
Murph
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