(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

By vid1900

11 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

143 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #7 Playfield damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #8 Insert damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #34 How to sand your new inserts flat. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #35 Cleaning old glue out of the insert holes. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)


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#74 11 years ago

Fantastic work vid. Love seeing all these tips. With how extensive this kind of work is, will you also be covering how to fix a "playfield poke-through"? I've seen on some pins here on Pinside and out in the wild where someone probably used too long of a replacement screw for something and it ended up piercing the artwork on top.

I'm sure there is a fix for that.

1 month later
#154 11 years ago

I think the answer is kind of obvious, but I'll ask anyway....

I have a playfield "aberration" that is not in the field of travel for the ball, ever, and you have to look for it to find it and even know it's there, but it is there and will need some real attention to be fixed properly. My question is this: Should I worry about trying to fix it now or wait until I do a full playfield strip and clearcoat to fix it?

Like I said, the ball doesn't roll over it at all and it appears to be stable(hasn't changed since I bought the pin back in October), so I think I'm safe waiting so I can do a proper job on it.

#156 11 years ago

I'll have to do that when I get home.

I'm just having a REALLY slow day at work, so I checked the forum early today.

1 week later
#165 11 years ago

Alright vid, finally got good pictures of my "aberration". Here's one with the ambient light and one with a flashlight on it. I thought it was a screw poke-through, but didn't see any screw actually poking through. Then, upon inspecting the underside of the playfield, I saw the one screw that looks completely different than all the others. It was a brass countersunk phillips head amongst all the #6 hex heads.....it kinda stood out. If it were just one of the screws on the other side of that bracket, this wouldn't be a problem because it'd be behind that stainless wall to the left! Thankfully, it isn't in the ball track at all so it hasn't been exacerbated since the original op's "fix".

How did he not feel the massive amount torque he must have used as being somewhat different than that of the other three screws?

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#167 11 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Or just knock it down and paint it without any clear. If you every do a clearcoat, you could fill it then. (this is what I recommend you do)

That's what I was thinking, too. Since it's not in the travel path of the ball, it's not too big of a deal. Nevermind the fact that it took me two months to even find it! But yes, it'll be on my list of things to fix when the teardown and restore phase comes. My only other concerns with the playfield(that I've seen so far, anyway) are the wear lines from the ramp flaps. There seems to be a lot of crap that has accumulated there over the years and I'm certain some of it has ground into the artwork.

4 months later
#350 10 years ago

http://www.whatfontis.com/

Another great site for identifying fonts. Make sure the text is black and the background is white, or vice-versa. If it is reversed, there's a radio button that needs to be checked denoting that.

Still, post a pic here if you get the chance.

9 years later
#8010 1 year ago

You could try to get a piece of red or blue transparent material, like a spotlight gel/cell or something like that, that you can most likely find at a hobby store fairly easily and cheaply. Then, put that between the decals and scanner glass. When you scan it, the letters should show up a bit better as they're not as glossy as the backing paper. Then you can play with all the values to hopefully get them to stand out a bit better. A good idea to see if it'll work is to bring those decals in with you and test them out to see if you can see the difference between the white lettering and the backing paper. If so, the scanner will see it, too. If not, save your money.

Or...

Get on to IPDB and see of there are any really good pictures of those inserts and work from those. Or ask someone here who has that game for a really good straight on shot of said inserts.

2 months later
#8151 1 year ago

Are there any national chain brick and mortar stores that sell frisket in sheets or rolls? I've found plenty of places online to buy it, just curious if there might be a store I could just walk in a choose from a selection of different offerings. Plus, I'm old school. I like paying for something and receiving it right then and there.

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