(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

By vid1900

11 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

143 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #7 Playfield damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #8 Insert damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #34 How to sand your new inserts flat. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #35 Cleaning old glue out of the insert holes. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)


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#7571 2 years ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

So…I had to cut this damn thing out with an Xacto knife. Vid has warned us not to do this, and he’s right - you’re going to get a rough edge somewhere that makes the decal hang up and potentially ruin itself on the way off the paper. It’s a major pain and yes, I had to do this twice. Second time laid down smoothly.

Always use a sharp, absolutely fresh blade to cut out a decal, it can help minimize areas of hangups. Most scale modelers do cut their decals, even the factory ones in the kits, to minimize the film. You also cut away from the decal always, even if it means cutting a curve in two pieces.

Quoted from sethbenjamin:

One drawback to this is that no home printer I have used ever throws down a really rich black.

If you're capable of doing a direct CMYK print to the printer, use "rich black", which throws around 40% coverage each of Cyan, Magenta and Yellow. It can really help deepen a black. But yeah, most home printers try to make everything look good and get in the way of a professional result.

#7576 2 years ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

I haven’t seen an option for that on my setup. Doesn’t mean it isn’t there, but my printer (a Xerox phaser) has a whole rat’s nest of sub-options to navigate through. There are Image Adjustment settings which allow for saturation and darkness shifts (among other things); on a plain black I just bump both of those to maximum. On a color decal they introduce so much variability I’ve tended to leave them alone while color matching. Might actually make sense to bump them up while making tests…it’s always a decision tree I struggle with.

Generally speaking, when I'm specifying a "rich" black, I'm setting it up manually in the art file itself - at work, we need to print both straight black (typically text), and rich black (typically large black fills), so we set it manually on those fills.

#7583 2 years ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

I want to understand this. I presume this is a function within AI but I haven’t heard of it before. Can you give specifics? Thanks!

So when you have the Color palette up, or you can even use the Swatches palette to have it available to assign, you make it C=50% M=40% Y=30% K=100%. Basically, the CMY portions help to "enrich" the K (Black), making it darker. In a print shop, doing 4 color work, it helps keep the black from washing out. It's only used for fills, we never use it for type.

1 year later
#8314 1 year ago
Quoted from zahner:

I have a question re an ongoing restoration of Flash Gordon and the interior walls adjacent to the playfield. The red paint on the interior cabinet walls wears off quickly and there isn’t really enough room to get my set blade protectors in there. Very tight.
Is there a paint or suggested process that would abate or minimize the rather substantial wear I’m currently experiencing?

Adhesive vinyl might work well... the same sort of stuff you'd feed into a home vinyl cutter for crafting. They sell it in rolls that would give the required length, and in a variety of colors and finishes.

5 months later
#8413 9 months ago
Quoted from Spunky1562:

How do I get that back diffused or slightly opaque insert look.?

Try some foamed plastic packing material between the insert and the bulb. Works best (safest) if you're using LEDs.

https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/uploads/articles/Lee_saber1_8.jpg

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