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(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

By vid1900

11 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

143 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #6 Removing mylar and the adhesive left behind. Don't clear over it. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #7 Playfield damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #8 Insert damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #15 Removing inserts, step one - cut around it so you don't remove artwork with the insert. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #23 Removing inserts, step two - how to heat it, what to push it out with. Don't remove them if you're not replacing them. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #26 How a playfield is made and why your new inserts must be sanded flat before installation. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #34 How to sand your new inserts flat. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #35 Cleaning old glue out of the insert holes. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #36 Removing old mastic with a burr tool on a rotary device such as a Dremel. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #37 Prep your insert for gluing by sanding it with 100 grit. Epoxy can be chipped off the insert without this step. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

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#3469 7 years ago
 
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klr650

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Sorry to bud in, I've been meaning to post this for awhile. If you are bound and determined to have perfect airbrushed circles and keylines (without using decals) try using an Olfa CMP-1 circle cutter. Basically it's a glorified compass with a razor blade. It works very well for cutting beautiful circles in frisket. Just make sure to protect the point where the cutter pivots (at the center of the insert). The cutter comes with a small flat disc for this purpose. Apply very gentle pressure, you don't want to inadvertently cut the edge of the insert! These cutters are available at the higher end art stores.

olfa_(resized).jpgolfa_(resized).jpg

2 months later
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#3662 7 years ago
 
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klr650

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If you are set on using epoxy: People in the model airplane hobby will use 30 minute epoxy for areas with excessive vibration (engine firewalls). I don't know how it stands up to repeated whacking with a pinball but it should stand up better than 5 minute epoxy. I have recently switched from using epoxy to just using bamboo skewers and wood glue (as per Vid's suggestion in another thread). Dip skewer in glue, insert in hole, trim flush with side cutters. Quick and easy.

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#3678 7 years ago
 
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klr650

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I've only found the 30 minute epoxy in hobby shops. Here is a link to an adhesive application guide. On this chart, 30 minute epoxy is called "slow-cure"
http://www.bsi-inc.com/about/adhesive_chart.html

Post last edited 7 years ago: “Added URL”

6 months later
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#4362 6 years ago
 
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klr650

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Try depopulating more of that playfield or else your painting and sanding will truly be a "FML" experience. Slingshots /switches are easy to tuck behind the playfield. Bulbs can be removed and the holders filled with balls of painters tape. Pins and some wire guides can be carefully removed by pulling directly away from playfield with needle nosed pliers...

2 months later
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#4629 6 years ago
 
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klr650

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Hi Vid, is it always best to use the original style inserts or is changing, say, an opaque red insert to a red starburst insert considered acceptable? I am gathering supplies to start restoring a Quicksilver. A lot of crazing and cracking of inserts (and some very deep cupping). I have ordered original style inserts but I have also ordered some starburst inserts - just for kicks. Is there any room for artistic license when it comes to inserts?

1 week later
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#4696 6 years ago
 
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klr650

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Hi Vid, I can't seem to locate any 3M AC77 plastics primer but Loctite SF770 is available here locally at Acklands Grainger.

So far I have determined two things:
- Both the 3M and Loctite product are designed for improving the adhesion of CA glue to plastics.
- Both have two sevens in the product name...

Do you know if these products are equivalent with respect to bonding Epoxies to plastic?
Thanks Vid!

IMG_20170815_174321976 (resized).jpgIMG_20170815_174321976 (resized).jpg

2 weeks later
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#4735 6 years ago
 
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klr650

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I've completely depopulated a Quicksilver playfield (top and bottom). The grey paint on the bottom of the playfield looks like it went on too thin and hasn't really sealed the wood.

What is the best product for sealing the bottom, paint or clearcoat? If I use clearcoat, do I need to match the number of coats that go onto the top of playfield or is one coat sufficient?
Thanks Vid!

1 month later
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#4939 6 years ago
 
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klr650

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Using an Iriscan Book 5 but same issue. Stitching is a pain - so I just scan individual "chunks" of the playfield artwork that need to be saved. It can scan directly to jpg files at 300 dpi or higher but playfield must be flat (no chunks of wood sticking into the air around screw holes). Only use a hand scanner as a last resort!

iriscan-book-5-by-canon-portable-scanner-with-software-d-2017032815562298~547968 (resized).jpgiriscan-book-5-by-canon-portable-scanner-with-software-d-2017032815562298~547968 (resized).jpg

1 week later
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#5011 6 years ago
 
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klr650

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Quoted from DropTarget:

OH, also I went to buy some Createx paints today, my local art supply store stocks them. They did not have opaque yellow, so I bought a set of their Wicked colors. Do you know anything about that line of paint? When I was at the check out, the woman at the register volunteered that I was going to love using Createx paint. Said they're the best.

The wicked colors are excellent for filling in larger areas because they stick very well to smooth surfaces and don't require heat to set. They will work very well for that larger blue and that larger purplish area. Unfortunately, they are not opaque (except for opaque white) so for touchups they are a pain. Not quite as good as the regular opaque createx in that regard. For yellow you will need to first spray the wicked opaque white first, then spray yellow over that. Otherwise you could spray 8 coats and will still see the old paint beneath.

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#5013 6 years ago
 
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klr650

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Quoted from DropTarget:

Thanks,
Maybe I'll mail order the Opaques.

If you are ordering some, grab one of these as it is a stock opaque color (sky blue). Won't have to tweak it too much to match your playfield.

1508902137167-1202781536 (resized).jpg1508902137167-1202781536 (resized).jpg

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#5024 6 years ago
 
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klr650

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Quoted from DropTarget:

I've also spoken with Createx. Wickeds are opaque, they have a line called Wicked Detail, those are the transparent ones.

Strange that Createx would say this. I mean, just have a look at the Wicked brochure on the Createx website. It shows what each color will look like when sprayed over a white vs. black base. Other than black and white, most colors seem to be transparent to a certain degree.

2016-wicked-colors-color-chart (resized).jpg2016-wicked-colors-color-chart (resized).jpg

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#5040 6 years ago
 
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klr650

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OP
Quoted from vid1900:

I have the Createx DVD and it shows airbrushing a T-shirt, then ironing it for 30 seconds on high to set the paint.
It's possible the formula has changed, but I just heatset a fresh quart of Opaque Black, and it locked in normally.

VID you are correct, Regular Createx MUST be cured with heat (as per the Createx Application Guide on their website). For Createx Wicked, heat-curing is an optional step so I don't usually bother...

AppGuide_CreatexAirbrushColors.pdfAppGuide_CreatexAirbrushColors.pdf

3 months later
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#5537 6 years ago
 
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klr650

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Definitely scan that Stars playfield first. Then if something goes wrong you could still try these two other options:

1. Use scans to make spray masks for the stars. A cutting machine can be used to print out some masks for airbrushing. Consult the Silhouette Cameo thread for more info. I personally would avoid this option if you are planning on replacing any small text.

2. Use scans to make dry rub-on transfers. There are a few threads for this, look for threads from @Drano, he's got this whole process figured out. I have used his technique to completely replace all of the white text, black keylines, and black insert text on a Quicksilver playfield. The biggest advantage here is that you avoid some of the headaches of using waterslide decals. One disadvantage is that it takes at least one more layer of clear to completely "bury" these transfers. Here is an example, before and after adding the dry rub-on transfers:

IMG_20170930_174507493 (resized).jpgIMG_20170930_174507493 (resized).jpg
FYI, the "camo" look is deliberate, it's not tiger-striping, really!
IMG_20171006_152912763 (resized).jpgIMG_20171006_152912763 (resized).jpg
Text and white bonus arrow were color-matched to the original playfield text color (off white). Any whites under plastics were painted bright white. All airbrush masking was done with Frisket as per Vid's guide.

1 week later
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#5569 6 years ago
 
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klr650

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Quoted from DropTarget:

Hi,
Has anyone seen / used the "Playfield Insert Repair Discs" shown on this website?
If so, what were the results? If not, what are your thoughts?
http://www.oldpinballs.com/store.htm

Haven't used them but looks like you start with smaller discs at the most sunken portion of insert and keep adding the larger diameter discs till the insert is level with playfield? Seems like a good, albeit temporary, fix to prevent further flaming of inserts or even prevent chipping of clear around improperly-filled inserts.

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