Hi Vid, Thanks in advance, again.

Eight Ball Deluxe (LE) factory mylar. I pulled up a section about 2x3 inches to see what was going to happen, and the paint is flaking off, so I want to keep the mylar.

Questions. 1. How to reglue that piece of mylar back down, can I reuse it? I did not cut it off.

2. Is there a method for clearing the playfield up to the mylar without covering the mylar with clear? Recommended?

3. Is mylar refinishable? i.e., sanding, buffing, cleaning up etc?

4. There is a line of missing paint across the playfield starting in the left outline (pics attached) that goes across the playfield. Is this a crack in the playfield?

I've pretty much decided I'm just going to wait for a CPR re-run, but that may be a while.

Pics: 1 to show the mylar I pulled up. 3 to show the "crack" across the playfield. 1. upper playfield, to show the condition of the non-protected portion.

Thanks for you inputs.

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I looked through the clearing sections, but didn't see what is best for use to mask off what you don't want cleared. I saw ear plugs for lamp holes... how about how to mask of single drop target holes? I'm clearing EBD with the drop targets in place. Just use masking tape? Easiest way to protect the hole between the target and the edge of the hole itself?

Thanks.

Printing water slide decal question. I think most of the posts here relate to black only. Are there setbacks to printing other colors and/or large areas on water slides and using them? other than the cost of printer ink? Haven't done much of this, but it seems with the photoshop editor you could repair a large portion of worn playfield with water slides, rather than painting.

Thoughts?

Putting wiring harness back down, what is a good staple gun for the GI sockets? Those hard to get to spots are TIGHT for my staple gun... suggestions?

Vid, what's your recommended sanding block and sand papers that fit the block for between clear coats?

I live in Alaska, pretty much everything I need I shop online as getting anything local is next to impossible and time/fuel consuming.

Thanks again in advance.

About to clear my first playfield! Boom!

Flatten Playfield for clear question.

Once the edge pieces of wood are removed from the perimeter of the playfield, the playfield no longer wants to sit flat in a rotisserie. The middle sags. I'm assuming it's CRITICAL for the playfield to lay flat while the clear cures? For several weeks?

If I put the wood pieces on the bottom of the playfield to flatten it, I'm wondering about how to get the screw back out of the clear. Tape over screw heads?

Surely there's an easy solution to flatten the playfield in prep to clear, but I'm not thinking about it.

How long to leave the playfield perfectly flat to ensure the clear is dry/cured enough?

Thanks!

How long to let cure? (2PAC)

I'm cleared, sanded, polished. About to dimple and start reassembly. How long before a pinball can be put on the surface? I've read some places they recommend 6-8 weeks?

I'll post pics when complete. This was not a restoration, more of a touch up, and a clear. But, small steps. I'm SIGNIFICANTLY more confident now.

Thanks!

Probably not the correct thread to post this, but in reassembly I'm fighting how to remove and reinstall the metal from this plastic to a new plastic. Is there a tool for this? Bally, EBD.

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Getting ready to remove the temp rails under the playfield, and put the real ones on top.

Any issues with the playfield bending in the process and cracking the clear? Or does the clear keep the playfield flat?

Will clamp and screw the rails on top so eventually the playfield will "bend" (hopefully perfectly straight) to the new position.

I'm probably over thinking as it's damn flat the way it is.

Thoughts?

Drilling the wire form ball guide holes.

I understand using the brad bit for holes hidden under posts etc, but how do you get a good clean look AND protect the surrounding clear for wire form ball guides? The brad bit takes a lot of extra material with it, and therefore not a clean enough cut.

Thanks for any advice.

Bump... Vid... thoughts?

I haven't painted with an airbrush, just touch up by hand, but I'm looking into future airbrushing.

What type of "fading effects" can you do with certain guns?

Thanks!

Hi! second clear coat process is starting (currently in tear down).

Any special considerations when clearing over a Diamond Plated playfield? Clean, sand with 600, and spray. Anything specific to DP that I should be aware of? (late system 11)

What's the best cleaning material to get those deep dirt and grime scars out of the DP before clear/touch up.

Thanks as always!

Vid,

This is the sys 11 DP playfield I asked about a couple days ago.

My question is how the inserts are inserted and cleared from the factory. Many of the inserts have lifted slightly, usually just barely on one side, creating wear on the high side. The clear on top of the insert is uniform to the insert, i.e. no cracking around the edges.

Do I need to reglue these inserts?

My plan is to spray, then sand to level until it's level (build up), then WSD the inserts, then finish coat of clear.

If that is a bad idea, please let me know. This is a players game, private collection. Functional, playability is the goal.

Thanks

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I reread that section. Thanks.

Just be clear, how long approximately do you hold the hair dryer? 10 secs/ side?

And, when applying epoxy, you're talking NOT to pull the insert out and rough up the edge, just press into place, and glue the bottom of the insert.

Preference on epoxy?

I completely forgot to sand the Diamond Plate playfield before I cleared... as in, no 800 grit sanding to "give it the tooth"

What can I expect?

Very clean, with multiple cleaning with naphtha and some areas magic eraser to clean marks.

I got everything ready, was in a hurry, and forgot to scuff it.

Lesson learned for me.

Is there anything I can do about the playfield now it's cleared. Several coats last night.

It is diamond plate. Worth sanding off and start again?

I cleaned it VERY well.

It's a WELL broken in Diamond Plate Rollergames.

I'm going to just play. and hope.

Vid, I've made great use of the rotisserie recipe you provided.

Any plans for a pinball dolley? something to easily move them around a house/flat surface?

Fortunately I have a welder! Can't wait...

Ok... I've reassembled eight ball deluxe and for several months been playing.

The only thing I can't solve is the slings. I keep getting the coil to repeat fire, 3,4,5,6 times after the ball hits the rubber. I've adjusted and adjusted. I'm to the point where I think I have the wrong switches... i.e. too flimsy and they just bounce back and forth several times making contact. In order to correct it as is... I have to adjust the gap WAY too wide, which on gentler hits the sling never fires.

I've adjusted the rubber for tension. I've adjusted the switches. Both sides do this, but the right is noticeably worse.

This is the LAST thing to make this machine play perfect. And it's driving me nuts.

Do you have a recommendation for switches?

Wrong size provided in kit. Correct size fixed it.

I'm really tired of cheap pinball kits that don't have the parts you need.

Trend in this hobby...

Thanks vid.

I used spraymax at 60* and it was perfect. Autobody guys will say no less than 55*. I live in Alaska and did this just before winter. October ish. Looks beautiful.

Would you even touch this playfield?

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Can I see a pic of the "most"???

To me this is significant. Thank you for sharing your thoughts.

Stern NFL I'm contemplating on buying.

I'm not familiar with this era of Sterns, 2001. There is mylar over the majority of the playfield. In this pic there is insert damage under the mylar ( I believe it to be insert damage, or decal?)

Were there clear coats on this era of playfields? Would you expect the mylar lift to be difficult on this or fairly straight forward.

Not many of these machines made, and they are hard to come by.

Thanks Vid in advance for any info.

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I notice it in the pics, it sticks out. I'm assuming it would drive me nuts.

I also assume there's no way to fix it through the mylar?

Same as my NFL post #4077. Following. No Mylar on yours though! Much simpler!

Why did Stern use Mylar on their early clear coated machines? Striker Xtreme, NFL, T3 that I know of? (2000-2003 ish)

Was the clear then less protective? Or maybe Mylar was the habit at the time?

Tommy (1994) came from factory cleared with no Mylar.

Just curious of the history/process.

Which aftermarket mylars do you prefer for post clear coat?

Clean clear with naphtha before applying?

Pops, slings, ball drops... anywhere else? Full playfield?

Why didn't games such as Tommy and newer Stern games come with factory Mylar over the clear? Maybe I'm wrong but many games, especially late 80s/ early 90s diamond plates did not have Mylar over the clear.

Thanks for all the additional information.

Brand new Ghostbusters pinball in the box. Before playing, wax? Protector?

How to avoid having to come back to this thread for new Stern games with factory clear!

Sorry as in the adhesive will not come off?

Last one on this subject I promise.

Even pull up 2PAC?

Same with playfield protector adhesive? Thanks Vid

Vid,

I've read the decal setting process and have done it several times with great success.

What I don't understand is if the clear that is sprayed over the decal is weaker than the clear that applied via tooth to the base clear.

Is there evidence that using decals can cause the clear to lift, separate etc over time/use in high impact areas. I used decals around the pop bumpers to recreate the rope on Eight Ball Deluxe. Have not had a problem yet. So it works...

Curious how the clear attaches to decals as well as it attaches to other clear.

As always, thanks.

Vid, do you put down full Mylar then cut out switch, sling, post, flipper, WHATEVER holes... or do you install Mylar in sections?

How do you use the 22" roll when installing?

Entire playfield for a couple pins, and high wear on others (depending on the state of where I stand with teardowns of different machines)

I have several projects to do.

What's Alps?

Copy the Florida humidity comment. What about temp? 90* with 100% ok? I know below about 55-60* is just too cold for clear. (Florida panhandle myself).

Do you place the decal on sanded (1000 grit) area, or do you sand around where the decal goes?

Does the sanded area look different under (through) the decal... i.e. dull sanded finish vs shiny polished finish.

What color white did you use and how did you do the lettering?

Thanks. Looking good. Agree with Vid, use a planet scan to fill in the damaged area. Random helps.

Firepower forever!

Best printer for printing yellow (and black) decals without breaking the bank?

Also, for the insert, better to remove and clean the hole/glue or just clamp and glue from behind?

Thanks for your input!

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Vid I was referencing the large blue arrow insert that is lifted in all corners.

Thanks!

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Ok, one more time... not sure what you meant.

I understand paint yellow... do I also repaint the white and then decal just the black over those two colors?? That's a difficult white to get right.

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Vid, didn’t you have a “how to build wire guide?”

I could only find the ball guide thread about wall style, not wire guides.

If not, what do you make wire form guides and ramps from?

I’ve read piano wire?

Really tough to see from the glare, but when I clamped the inserts and applied epoxy, I got epoxy on the insert flat.

It looks horrible now. The green insert is easy to find to replace, however the red arrow (non-jeweled) I have not been able to find a replacement.

I don't know if the epoxy can be sanded/polished off the backside. But now, this looks terrible.

Either -- a source for red non-jeweled inserts (I've looked at all the normal vendors)? or a safe way to remove the expoxy?

Thanks!

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Vid how much insert "movement" do you accept before you take the insert out and reglue the entire thing? ie, some looseness is acceptable and just reglue from the back without removing, or if the insert moves, always remove it and reglue?

Thanks.

Vid any techniques for bending smooth long curves with the welding rod? The small tight curves are simple enough, but for guides with a good curve?

Is there a file sharing / repository for insert decals etc?

Say, if one was looking for Black Knight decals... they’re available somewhere I’m sure?

Any leads appreciated.

What causes this discoloration in the center of the inserts? It's not a scratch (on the top side) as it doesn't "fill" with naphtha. So a assume no amount of sanding will remove it.

Is it stress?

Thanks for any info?

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Haven’t located any used (aged) inserts for this.

I need 4 3/4” inserts. New ones are too WHITE. Is there a way to age the new ones with an effect somehow?

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I still say, there should be a repository.

Who has Bally KISS playfield scans?

Yes, I know, you know who removed them. Period .

I know there's some smart printer folks here. Here's my frustration. Just bough a new Canon MF632Cdw laser printer. It prints great. EXCEPT.... The colors are completely different than the original scan.

Not as noticeable in the picture but the (what is supposed to be) white in the checker pattern is MUCH darker than the original in real life. The picture difference doesn't show this well.

The green is a completely different color of green.

I've ran the auto adjust twice, where the printer prints a rainbow then scans it to determine the difference between original and product.

Is my expectations of scanning/color matching to much? I know it would be impossible to be exact, but this isn't even close.

Thoughts?

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Sorry, I don't know what you mean... How do I do this?

If you can, PM me instead so we don't clog up Vid's thread (any more)

Thank you for any and all input!

This faded Bally (NGS) grey is IMPOSSIBLE to match. Spent all afternoon and not even close.

I saw the earlier post about adding purple... still didn't help.

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I've had this "flaking" issue on a couple lately, and I'm not if it it's something I'm doing wrong, or if it's the condition of the playfield itself.

In this example I'm in the process of leveling the playfield, clear, sand, clear, sand etc.

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Any idea why this WSD cured like this? I’ve never had this problem before... (film didn’t “dissolve”)

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Well it’s stuck down now for sure.

Going to dig it out and start over.

I'm about to give up on this playfield. Every time I put clear down I get a new problem.

Now, this WSD (the circular checkerboard pattern, and green circle) has been cleared over with several light coats. Sanded between each. I put down a fairly good coat of clear and it bubbled up. About 1 inch or so total affected area. Could this decal "suck" air in from the holes in the playfield for the pops?

I already know the wood on this game is suspect, as I've had significant flaking around many of the edges/holes etc.

Does a thicker coat of 2PAC have too much heat at times for weak paint/wood?

Thoughts?

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Fair enough!

Here you go.

Bally NGS. The original art around pops was heavily damaged from mylar removal. I recreated the art in photoshop, printed on white waterslides and put them down. Several very light coats of 2PAC as I always do.... however, after a couple of heavier coats, I got this bubble underneath.

I haven't cut it yet to see if it pulled the original art from the playfield. I sanded between each coat and this was sandwiched between layers of clear.

I don't know why/how I got this bubble?

Is is at all common with WS decals?

Thanks!

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What grit do you sand the area before a decal for tooth?

So this is the tricky part. I like to sand with something for tooth otherwise I’m afraid the clear won’t adhere around the decal well. I usually use 6-800 grit. Maybe I used too rough.

It was stuck down good for 2-3 coats of clear BEFORE this bubble appeared.

I did

White vs clear Waterslides - is the white material made of something different than the clear material? Does it adhere as well? The way I understand the process is the decal material is "eaten" by the clear during the cure leaving only the ink. After pulling of a WSD that bubbled I found there was still WSD material not just the remaining ink from the WSD.

In order to preserve ink color on the WSD (My Canon inkjet color fades as soon as you put it in water, even on 100% settings) i've sprayed a very light coat of clear onto the decal and let that coat cure before soaking in the water.

I'm wondering if this method does not allow the decal material to cure into the clear as well.

All thoughts are appreciated!

Filling VERY deeply cupped inserts -

Is there a depth that you recommend to be the max with one cure of clear? ie... fill half way up then sand and top off? I've had great success in the past with filling, however this Grand Prix has by far the worst cupped inserts I've seen.

Thoughts? Thanks.

Best way to frisket this area to spray the white? How to leave all the circle/arrow inserts covered? Will small frisket circles stay in place?

Thanks!

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Installing full Mylar.

What’s the trick? It never looks perfect! Almost like tiny (and sometimes not so tiny) bubbles. Really shows through.

Also, do you cut out every switch/lamp/spinner etc hole after the Mylar is down?

Any tricks you have are greatly appreciated!

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How do you warm it to 85? Space heater in a garage?

That’s quite warm.

Sanding personal protection.

Lately I’ve had serious sinus problems. For the last several months I’ve has sinus infections, inability to breathe though the nose, and I’m actually having surgery Tuesday to correct the problems.

I think this is a shop-related problem. I’m wondering about the dust from sanding the clear.

I’ve never worn PPE while sanding. I always do while spraying, and I think it’s possible the fine dust of the clear after sanding is giving me problems.

Wet sanding I would assume would be safer as it creates a slurry mess, however many times I use a green scrubbie to scratch the surface in prep for the next spray.

Wondering what everyone’s thoughts are here!

I get bubbles quite often when filling inserts. The bubble or bubbles do not appear when filling and for the first 20-30 minutes after filling.

They appear hours later or the next day once it’s cured. It’s up at the surface and almost always no longer a bubble, it’s a crater, what’s left of the bubble as it cures.

Humidity? Something else? Thanks for your thoughts.

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Trying to find blue inserts, and everybody that has them in stock there a different color between the round and the arrow inserts.

Doing a BK hard top, and the original inserts are horribly faded, and a couple missing.

In order to match colors, I ordered all new starburst inserts. All other colors are good except the blue.

Anybody have a source that has these? Pinball life, Marco, PBR do not. They all have the light blue round and darker blue arrow.

Thoughts?

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I'm assuming you use the "soak in boiling water dye/mix" technique?

If I dye the insert and match the color, then sand the dye flat to the top of the playfield (after clamping/epoxy), sanding will remove that dye color... I assume.

Thoughts?

I’m trying to understand the need to sand original art off on a hard top install.

If you put down a layer of clear, does it really matter? As long as it’s flat.