Toronto, ON
I remember Treasure Cove was the top of the heap for pin restoration a decade ago. How times change.
(Topic ID: 33446)
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3 months later
Vid, here's a question for you.
I'm doing a Paragon where the centre bonus area is totally blown out, but all the inserts are perfect - the numbers are still perfectly intact and probably only need a bit of levelling.
Should I still chip them out to decal the whole area? Seems a shame to ruin the original numbering when it looks fine.
2 months later
Here's one for you. I've been hitting this with alcohol and MF but no matter what I do, I can't get the swirls out. If I press any harder or go longer I just wipe out the ink. Is there something else I can do or do I just have to live with it?
We don't have Bleche White in Canada, and I hear the good stuff isn't available anymore anyway.
Quoted from UvulaBob:If I'm going to be doing a small bit of screen printing onto the playfield, do I want to go with the Speedball acrylic inks or the fabric inks?
If you're using water-based inks, you'll need to be printing directly on the wood and not over other graphics, because it will just wipe off. Also I'm pretty sure clearcoat will make it run.
Quoted from UvulaBob:But do you have any insight into why nobody uses Speedball Acrylic ink on playfields?
Because Speedball is hobbyist quality ink with low solids? Also, water-based inks tend to swell the wood?
UV is really the way to go in the 21st century.
Quoted from UvulaBob:Maybe I have no idea what I'm talking about, and your condescension is deserved, but I'm not sure acrylics are as water-based as you seem to think they are.
I've done a lot of screen printing with Speedball and Nazdar water-based inks over the years, including on wood, and there's a lot of swelling that happens even straight out of the container, let alone when its thinned to get through a 320 mesh screen. Nazdar is way, way better in terms of ink quality and density. Speedball is cheap and easy to get at art stores but it's barely good enough for paper printing.
Sorry if I came off as condescending, but you automatically discounted Vid's advice on what inks to use so I was a bit incredulous at that.
Quoted from UvulaBob:If I'm going to go with Nazdar ink, what type? Is the multipurpose UV good enough, or do I need a specific ink line?
You need a UV dryer to use the UV inks, they don't air or heat dry. You can get one of those UV dryers they use for nails, that would work.
4 weeks later
3 weeks later
Quoted from Pmaino:Wont Naptha remove the wax and also the clear coat?
No, Naphtha will only remove the wax, it is clear coat safe.
Isopropyl Alcohol and the Magic Eraser (Melamine Foam) will remove the top coat since it's sandpaper, essentially.
1 year later
I'm airbrushing a playfield using vinyl stencils and Createx, but I'm finding it difficult to get perfectly sharp lines with them - it's mostly fine but not "screenprinting" perfect - so now that I'm on the black layer, I'm considering options for the lettering.
Either use a very thin vinyl I can cut on my cutter, or decals. The issue is, I'll be using a roll-on clearcoat (KBS Diamond Clear) because I can't spray in my space. So I haven't been clearing between colours or anything. So, since it's an uneven surface, will decals even work?
Since it's a roll-on, I'm not sure how thin a layer I could get, so I'm concerned about it being visibly on a different layer. I could maybe use Rustoleum clear in a can to get a thin lock-in layer but then I'm concerned about incompatibility with my final clear. The issue with vinyl letters is the thickness of the vinyl - not sure how thin I can get. I know I can cut it very small, though.
So, thoughts?
Quoted from dr_nybble:Why are your lines not crisp?
It was a combination of not pressing the mask down hard enough, and too much pressure on the airbrush pushing too much paint. I'm getting very consistent lines now.
Quoted from dr_nybble:Here is a Canadian place that does it: http://www.allout-graphics.com/
Oof, you're not kidding - $100 for a tiny sheet! I'll try my hand at the decals first since the text is all black. Thanks though!
1 month later
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:Vid, didn’t you have a “how to build wire guide?”
http://pinballmakers.com/wiki/index.php/Construction#Wireforms
2 weeks later
Quoted from Pinball-Pat:My first question is how to paint the black around the stars.
I'd scan it, paint it all black and repaint the stars by hand.
Quoted from tomds:Well so far my playfield restoration has been a complete disaster.
This might be your only solution...
Goodbye perfectly good artwork
Hopefully that mold doesn't go too deep and can be sanded! I have complete scans of the playfield if you want.
2 weeks later
What's the best way to get the slurry residue out of the holes, and to clean up star inserts with clear in the grooves? I think you may have covered both of those but it wasn't obvious in the tagged posts.
2 months later
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