You're assuming that operators cared about "properly preparing" anything...
(Topic ID: 33446)
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1 month later
Quoted from tomds:Currently prepping a play field for restoration. What is the best way to deal with the areas where plastic posts have been installed. I have seen about using a nut driver or punch to flatten the raised areas, but I have round indentations where the bottoms of the post have been screwed too tightly against the play field. Should I use filler on these areas, or top up with clear coat like you would with sunken inserts?
The post is going back on. Why do anything?
8 months later
Quoted from koen12344:I'm currently working on my Blackout project and hit a minor snag. All of the arrow inserts were cupped, so I took them out and ordered new ones.
The red and orange ones are a perfect fit, but the green ones I ordered are just a tiny bit larger so they don't fit into the holes (they are a slightly different mold... may have gotten the wrong part?).
I tried sanding one down on the sides to make it fit, but that's tricky to do and I fear they will be sanded unevenly. Anyone have some advice?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I got green ones for my Blackout from Pinball Life. Fit perfectly.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Atari_Daze:Holy S, I could buy one of these for the cost of ONE of the cartridges for my current Samsung.
GEES.
Yep, printer manufacturers don't make their money on the hardware, they make it on the consumables.
1 month later
Quoted from frisbez:Following up my earlier post:
The cracks can be sanded out...but it's very easy to go too fast with a power sander.
Looks like a half-assed touch-up and clearcoat job gone wrong.
1 week later
Quoted from mjenison:Well, looks to me like all three are cracked.
So my options are:
1) Have them replaced by a professional, but they end up looking different than the others because no one can replicate the "fog" of the original clear coat.
2) Buy a new playfield from Mirco; his clear coat won't have the fog effect either, but at least they'll all look consistent, though not original.
3) Leave the inserts as-is and repair per your guide (is this an option if the inserts are cracked?)
4) ????
What are peoples' thoughts as the best option?
Play it and enjoy it!
1 month later
Quoted from plankalkul:vid1900 or anyone who might have dipped their toes in this water.
Considering removing gorgars eyes to light them up from under the playfield.
1.) what kind of “insert” could I use for this? I assume that a sticky clear decal would be too unstable to hold in moving the machine and coil shaking?
I don’t really have anything to cut plexiglass cleanly and because this is such a small insert, ... ugh.
Thoughts?[quoted image]
Fiber-Optic strands
1 month later
1 year later
Quoted from Mathazar:I haven't applied the clear yet. This condition is after (in order):
- Mylar removal with light heat gun
- Adhesive residue removal with Goo Gone
- Sanding 800-1000-1500 to remove the remaining artwork
- Wiping down with Naphtha
I was going to prep the inserts and apply clear next, but I'm stopping to figure out what this is and correct before advancing.
What does it look like when wet with naptha? That's a pretty good indication of what it will look like cleared.
6 months later
Quoted from gawlicd:Should I put this cam unit in dishwasher or clean by hand.
[quoted image]
Clean the contacts.
1 month later
Quoted from Boslaw:Buthamburg makes a very good repro BoP playfield. There are lots of old BoP playfields on the market that are in better shape than what you have. I enjoy restoration work but you could probably get one those NOS for $50-$100 from someone who upgraded to a repro and save yourself a ton of time and $.
And have some wood for the fire...
1 year later
7 months later
8 months later
Quoted from vid1900:Lately, I've been using "Emerald" paint by Sherman Williams.
I roll the cab into the store, the broad 'computer matches' some unfaded section (like under the coin door), they have me out of there in 10 minutes.
If I need more paint in the future, I can order by the mix number on the can's lid.
Way cheaper than rattle cans, the color is an exact match, no toxic fumes and I can clean my gun out with water instead of Lacquer Thinner.[quoted image]
Do you need to thin before spraying?
3 months later
Quoted from Garrett:Touch up with paint and try to get a mylar pop ring in there.
An adhesive mylar ring, not the floating junk Gottlieb used.
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