Photo: pinballphotos
  1. » Forum
  2. » Restoration
  3. » Playfield restoration
  4. » Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration
(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

By vid1900

11 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 8,789 posts
  • 803 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by Jagrmaister
  • Topic is favorited by 1,973 Pinsiders
  • Topic is sticky in its sub-forum

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

20240419_165132 (resized).jpg
20240415_125716 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240404_002101962 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240404_002010342 (resized).jpg
THUMP BUMP HOLE ENLARGE1 (resized).JPG
THUMP BUMP HOLE ENLARGE2 (resized).JPG
IMG_3225 (resized).JPG
IMG_3141 2 (resized).JPG
image (resized).jpg
Pinside_forum_1762038_386370 (resized).jpg
IMG_3141 (resized).JPG
PXL_20240304_203555066 (resized).jpg
20240301_160448 (resized).jpg
20240301_131123 (resized).jpg
IMG_2646 (resized).jpeg
IMG_3299 (resized).jpeg

Topic index (key posts)

143 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #6 Removing mylar and the adhesive left behind. Don't clear over it. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #7 Playfield damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #8 Insert damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #15 Removing inserts, step one - cut around it so you don't remove artwork with the insert. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #23 Removing inserts, step two - how to heat it, what to push it out with. Don't remove them if you're not replacing them. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #26 How a playfield is made and why your new inserts must be sanded flat before installation. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #34 How to sand your new inserts flat. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #35 Cleaning old glue out of the insert holes. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #36 Removing old mastic with a burr tool on a rotary device such as a Dremel. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #37 Prep your insert for gluing by sanding it with 100 grit. Epoxy can be chipped off the insert without this step. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider jazc4.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

0
0
0
#7420 2 years ago
 
ACE

jazc4

Pinside member

US Humble, TX

10y 90,050 1,679 10 8

Vid, I want to clear coat the playfield from a Road Show I picked up. I noticed that it has paint bubbled up in spots. A lot of the spots will be covered by ramps, but some won't. I tried sanding it very lightly in a place where it wouldn't show. Anything more than the lightest sanding removed the bubble. The ones that didn't pop turned lighter. What would you recommend I do to prepare the surface for clearing without making a bunch of paint spots where I may not be able to match paint? My original plan was to sand the surface with 800 grit to help the clear bond to the surface of the playfield. I appreciate your advice. Thanks!

rs ubble (resized).jpgrs ubble (resized).jpg
0
1
1
#7439 2 years ago
 
ACE

jazc4

Pinside member

US Humble, TX

10y 90,050 1,679 10 8

I'm almost ready to clear coat my RS playfield. I've done a lot of research. Please check my list and let me know if I'm wrong anywhere. Thank you.

1. Sand
2. Naphtha
3. First coat of clear
4. Wait 24 hours
4. Paint corrections
5. Lightly sand or scuff
6. Final coats of clear
7. Wait 24 hours
8. Sanding cascade
9. Wait 2-3 weeks
10. Final cutting and polish

1 year later
0
0
0
#8043 1 year ago
 
ACE

jazc4

Pinside member

US Humble, TX

10y 90,050 1,679 10 8

I've used Spraymax 2K with great success, but I want to try hvlp on my next playfield. What brand clear is everyone using these days?

0
0
0
#8045 1 year ago
 
ACE

jazc4

Pinside member

US Humble, TX

10y 90,050 1,679 10 8

Quoted from Zitt:

Having done clear with harbor freight hlvp gun on a pf. It's not hard... And kinda fun.

Thanks Zitt. I agree. I was surprised how easy and definitely fun it was with Spraymax. I'm sure hvlp will be also. I have all of the equipment. Which clear do you use when not using the lower tier clear?

1 week later
0
0
0
#8058 1 year ago
 
ACE

jazc4

Pinside member

US Humble, TX

10y 90,050 1,679 10 8

Quoted from radium:

Noticed you never got an answer. I just use the one vid recommended 50 years ago, PPG JC660. People will gush about others, but a lot of those people are more experienced than I am and I like that JC660 is beginner-friendly. Like... I'm not going to run out and buy the same clear that HEP uses.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/16#post-1669058

Thanks Radium!

1 month later
0
0
0
#8125 1 year ago
 
ACE

jazc4

Pinside member

US Humble, TX

10y 90,050 1,679 10 8

Here's the situation: ES playfield. First layer of clear coat placed. Sanded flat with 800 grit. It will need a LOT of paint repair. It's so much to paint, I have to airbrush one color at a time. When I finish all of the different colors, how do I wipe the playfield down with Ready-Prep and naphtha without removing any of the new paint? Maybe the answer is: carefully?!?!

0
1
1
#8130 1 year ago
 
ACE

jazc4

Pinside member

US Humble, TX

10y 90,050 1,679 10 8

Vid1900 and Pinballinreno thanks to both of you for all of the information in this and other threads. You two have helped my restoration skills immensely.

4 weeks later
0
0
0
#8169 1 year ago
 
ACE

jazc4

Pinside member

US Humble, TX

10y 90,050 1,679 10 8

I have a WCS94 that plays good but needs the playfield cleared and touched up. It will be a year or so before I can get to it. I want to put a mylar playfield protector sheet on it for now. I'm worried when I pull it off later to clear the playfield it might lift decals, etc. Am I worried in vain? If my worry is valid, is there any precautions I can take to keep this from happening?

0
0
0
#8170 1 year ago
 
ACE

jazc4

Pinside member

US Humble, TX

10y 90,050 1,679 10 8

Quoted from jazc4:

I have a WCS94 that plays good but needs the playfield cleared and touched up. It will be a year or so before I can get to it. I want to put a mylar playfield protector sheet on it for now. I'm worried when I pull it off later to clear the playfield it might lift decals, etc. Am I worried in vain? If my worry is valid, is there any precautions I can take to keep this from happening?

E7637D79-6132-4CF6-9189-91E5BFCD10CB (resized).jpegE7637D79-6132-4CF6-9189-91E5BFCD10CB (resized).jpeg
5 months later
0
0
0
#8368 1 year ago
 
ACE

jazc4

Pinside member

US Humble, TX

10y 90,050 1,679 10 8

I have a CF playfield where the inserts are sunken. Could I do my first layer of clear and then build up the inserts with clear? Or does the fact they are sunken mean they need to be removed and reglued?

3 months later
0
4
4
#8394 9 months ago
 
ACE

jazc4

Pinside member

US Humble, TX

10y 90,050 1,679 10 8

I scuff sand the surface with 600 grit sandpaper before naptha and tack cloth. Then I use a full can on the first session. I do 2 light layers about 7 minutes a part. Then I empty the can and let it cure 24 hours. Then I wet sand with 600 grit sandpaper to flatten before I do any paint repairs.

I bet you could sand with 600 and put more coats on and be fine.

0
0
0
#8400 9 months ago
 
ACE

jazc4

Pinside member

US Humble, TX

10y 90,050 1,679 10 8

Quoted from jfbenson:

This is my first clear coat and I am (rightly) afraid of fucking it up. Thanks for the information it is all helpful and a relief.

Don't worry. I felt the same way. I've found if you follow PinballinReno's advice it is a pretty forgiving thing.

0
0
0
#8410 9 months ago
 
ACE

jazc4

Pinside member

US Humble, TX

10y 90,050 1,679 10 8

On my last playfield I gave it a heavy coat at the end and it looked milky in areas too. But the next day it was clear. That was a year ago and it looks awesome. Don't worry.

1 month later
0
3
3
#8461 7 months ago
 
ACE

jazc4

Pinside member

US Humble, TX

10y 90,050 1,679 10 8

Quoted from ManbearpigOG:

Been doing lots of reading and learning as I am very close to starting my first coat and doing touch ups. I decides to go the 2K spray route and even with searching haven't read (or maybe skimmed over) if I put my first layer down and then spray some into a cap to fill cupped inserts.... how long do I have to paint? Say it takes me 2 weeks to get all my touch ups done, can I just spray the next coat right over it all with no sanding? I assume you don't want to sand your fresh paint, but will the 2K stick to itself after waiting and curing for a while?
Also have seen some of the scanning in the last few pages. I bought (and not returned) a Canon LiDE 300 to scan my PF. It did work but I basically had to take the whole thing apart. Also the colors are a little off. I tried asking in a few groups on Reddit, but no reply on if there is a newer scanner that works upside down, but no luck. The construction of the Canon is super basic and upside down it binds and shakes, so can not scan that way, I hade to build up around it and scan the PF face down, which was a treat.
If anyone knows of a better scanner (not the HP since they are basically non existent now) that maybe has internal rails and could scan upside down

Once you put your base layer of clear to lock in the original art, you can spray into a cup the 2K to fill in low spots. Once hardened enough (24 hours in my experience) you'll sand it to give it tooth. Then do your painting and retouchups directly on the scuffed clear. In that way once you finish painting you can go ahead and clear again to lock in the new paint. I've only done as few playfields, but this has worked very well.

0
0
0
#8465 7 months ago
 
ACE

jazc4

Pinside member

US Humble, TX

10y 90,050 1,679 10 8

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Some helpful info in the spraymax 2 thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-spraymax-2k-auto-clear-in-a-can-club
One interesting development is that some are using Diamond Clear "brush, roll on" paint with good results.
Some info on that at the end of the thread.

I have a couple of wall art level playfields that I need to clear before hanging. I'm thinking of trying the Diamond Clear roll on technique on those since I'll have no rush to let them cure properly.

2 months later
0
0
0
#8603 5 months ago
 
ACE

jazc4

Pinside member

US Humble, TX

10y 90,050 1,679 10 8

Quoted from BMGfan:

Whelp I'm back to the drawing board again.
Second coat came back, I let it sit for 5 days and then started working away at stenciling inserts. The stencils were going down and coming up really well and the results were and are going great:
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I'm very happy with the fine lettering even.
I hit a couple of very small, very localized areas of clear coat lift (less than 2sqin each) and didn't think too much of it. I attacked the edges and ripped up as much as possible of the weak stuff and it was small.
I then laid down a large piece of stencil to cut some larger colored areas. That's when I noticed noticed that the clear was coming up, queue pulling up anything weak, and the whole top 3rd sheeted off again.
[quoted image]
I'm telling you guys I followed all your advice and sanded the crap out of it, there wasn't ANYTHING shiny before I dropped it off. I also cleaned it with alcohol, water and rapid prep before I dropped it off.
Something has to be wrong with his process, so I'm back to the drawing board. Currently debating whether to go spray max or buy a gun setup, the wife isn't thrilled about the wasted clear expense so far.
At least if I fuck it up when I spray it, then I can learn something. I'm pushing through, and I know the results will be worth it, but this is demoralizing....

I go over the playfield with naptha after rapid prep. I think I read on here that you do rapid prep and then Naptha and then clear.

1 month later
0
1
1
#8667 4 months ago
 
ACE

jazc4

Pinside member

US Humble, TX

10y 90,050 1,679 10 8

Quoted from insight75:

Sorry if this has been discussed here or elsewhere. I have an IJ that has a good number of stripped holes holding the flipper coil assemblies. I usually use the old toothpick/glue method but really want to make sure I have a good bite on these screws so they hold up over time. Is there a better way to fill these holes to ensure I get a good bite?

I've used this method with great success. But I'm sure there are multiple ways.

0
0
0
#8670 4 months ago
 
ACE

jazc4

Pinside member

US Humble, TX

10y 90,050 1,679 10 8

Quoted from pinballinreno:

My Doctor Who resto had every single screw stripped out.
Bamboo skewers fixed all of them perfectly.

Never tried Bamboo. Interesting.

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Bally/Williams Blue Lighted Shooter Rod Plate Cover
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 36.95
Eproms
ROM SPACE JAM -SOUND
Pinballrom
 
$ 69.00
Electronics
Bally/Stern rectifier board AS-2518-18/49, Stern A-430
Pinball Haus
 
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
ORANGE Lighted Shooter Rod Plate Cover for Sega
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
From: $ 9.99
Eproms
Gilligan's Island Pinball -Sound Roms
Matt's Basement Arcade
 
3,000 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Bobby Orr's Power Play
Walnut Creek, CA
stevemac213
$ 179.00
Cabinet - Other
Bally POWER PLAY Premium Pinball Cabinet Stencil Set
Pinball Pimp
 
$ 18.95
Eproms
ROM BOBBY ORR POWER PLAY -CPU
Pinballrom
 
From: $ 399.95
Boards
PinSound Plus
PinSound
 
$ 12.95
Eproms
ROM SPACE JAM -GAL/PAL-U213 BLUE DOT
Pinballrom
 
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
PURPLE Lighted Shooter Rod Plate Cover for Sega
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 27.95
Eproms
ROM GILLIGAN’S ISLAND -SOUND
Pinballrom
 
From: $ 209.00
Displays
Pin2DMD Colour DMD Display for Data East / Sega x32
Retrocity
 
$ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
3D Start Button -- Space Jam
Rocket City Pinball
 
$ 9.99
Eproms
Gilligan's Island Pinball - CPU Rom [U6]
Matt's Basement Arcade
 
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
RED Lighted Shooter Rod Plate Cover for Sega
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
GREEN Lighted Shooter Rod Plate Cover for Sega
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 9.00
Cabinet Parts
Cam Lock Anchor Plate
Third Coast Pinball
 
$ 22.00
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Pinbawlers Handmade Shooter Plate for Sega Space Jam
arcade-cabinets.com
 
From: $ 35.00
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
Pinbawlers Stern and Sega flipper button wear protectors
arcade-cabinets.com
 
$ 18.95
Eproms
ROM SPACE JAM -GAL/PAL-DISPLAY
Pinballrom
 

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider jazc4.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!

This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration?tu=jazc4 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.