(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

By vid1900

11 years ago


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  • Latest reply 2 days ago by vid1900
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Topic index (key posts)

143 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #7 Playfield damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #8 Insert damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #34 How to sand your new inserts flat. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #35 Cleaning old glue out of the insert holes. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)


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#1919 8 years ago

Vid, do i need to try to fill this before i touch it up? Also have you or anyone tried the testors acrylic paints? Also i know you recommend airbrushing over brush, but can you recommend a brush technique to use until i can get an airbrush and practice with it.IMG-20150407-01120.jpgIMG-20150407-01120.jpg

#1923 8 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

If you are not going to clear over the entire playfield, then drip some clear to bring the depression up a bit.

Thin the paint to minimize brush strokes.
Paint, sand out strokes, paint again, sand again, get tired and buy an airbrush.
That pink is going to be a nightmare to try to a spot touch up on - a really hard match.
I'd frisket off the whole pink and red stripes and airbrush the whole thing with new color.

ok, so drop in some clear to bring it up after I paint? I will p/u an airbrush at HF tomorrow. The paint you recommend, should I get the opaque? also where can I get the frisket? and no I don't plan on clearing the playfield. I just want to fix this spot and touch up the red where the mylar was under the pops.

#1927 8 years ago

What kind of clear do you recommend for little jobs like this?

#1929 8 years ago

sorry for asking questions you had already answered. I finally read the whole thread. Thanks for all your help. Who has the adhesive mylar for pops. PBR didn't the last i knew.

2 months later
#2145 8 years ago

Vid, looking for a recommendation for this. Its a PinBot that i'm working on for a friend. The mylar has bubbled over a few of the inserts. on the sun insert, the bubble is proud of the playfield. Can i just do the glue trick, like you recommended for under the clear coat? I really don't want to pull the mylar, the pf is in really nice shape, and i don't want to possibly mess it up.

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1 month later
#2232 8 years ago

Vid, can you or someone point me to a replacement for this plastic. its for a pinbot. also what is it going to take to replace..IMG-20150807-01274.jpgIMG-20150807-01274.jpg

#2265 8 years ago

Quick question on the Pinbot i'm working on. On a number of my targets, the rivets holding the target and switch to the bracket are broken, anyone know off hand the bolt size and length I need to be able to replace them? I can do a trial and error, hoping someone has the info handy..

#2268 8 years ago

i figured you would have the answer. sorry for the wrong thread..

6 months later
#2900 8 years ago

Vid, i have a question regarding removal of mylar. This is a thought i had, could you, or has anyone ever tried compressed air. Say take a ball inflation needle and insert into a bubble, and very slowly add pressure. Seems like it would pop the mylar off of the playfield. Maybe if you rubbed the edges of the bubble as you did it. Again just a thought i had, could be the worst thing ever to try, so please don't try thinking i said its a good idea.

1 month later
#2977 7 years ago

Has anyone tried any of the Testors Aztek paints? I know the normal testors paints aren't recommended. I ask because I can get them local, which is nice if I need a color I don't have, also they offer a clear which would be nice to shoot over a small spot repair if it wouldn't make it impossible to clear over at a later date.

#2985 7 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

The entire line is meh and the only upside really is that it's airbrush ready with no thinning required. I'd Stick with Createx. Better pigment and a much larger range of colors. If you can't find it locally buy it from the link below. Much better quality at about the same price. Cheapest anywhere online.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/Search.html?query=createx#/?_=1&filter.custitemcustitem_manufacturer_usoffice=Createx%20Colors&page=1

i have createx I ordered. I can also get at hobby lobby, hate going there, about 30 miles away. Just thought I'd ask about the aztek as Michaels carries it and are about 10 miles away. thanks for the info.

#3029 7 years ago

Quick question, I am working on a Pinbot. I want to glue 1 of the plastics back together. I was thinking clear epoxy, then take a piece of blisterpack material and put it on the bottom to reinforce. Any epoxy I should look for, or stay away from?

2 weeks later
#3122 7 years ago

Quick question, is there any "standard" as to how high you install the metal wireform lane guides back in the playfield.

#3124 7 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

The center of the ball should align with the rail of the wire frame.
There are a few exceptions, but that covers 98% of them.

thanks vid, you're awesome. I knew I could get the right answer here.

1 month later
#3255 7 years ago

same exact face I made, and it was before I scrolled down to see it....

4 months later
#3680 7 years ago
Quoted from Mike_M:

I'm working on a System 11 (Earthshaker) and am ready to polish the original mylar covering a large portion of the playfield to try and get some shine back.
Based on previous posts it sounds like some folks use the system from Treasure Cove for polishing mylar.
I already have Meguiar's Mirror Glaze (Medium Cut Cleaner, Swirl Remover 2.0, and Machine Glaze.) Is that safe to use on the mylar? Assuming I should probably skip the medium cut cleaner and start with swirl remover but not sure.

I'm not sure on that, I used one of those headlight restore kits. Seemed to work well. Maybe not as well as Treasure cove, but I've never used it.

#3703 7 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Glad to hear it!

I've been working on a design that would move them around and safely flip them upright too, but it would need to be welded - no way I can see how to make it a bolt together.
Once I get it perfected, I'm sure I'll post the step by step.

waiting patiently for your perfected design...

2 months later
#3927 7 years ago

Vid, any suggestions on how to fix this...I know some really good welders, and could probably have access to mig or tig, just wondering if there is an easier way...

IMG-20170118-01771 (resized).jpgIMG-20170118-01771 (resized).jpg

#3930 7 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Lucky for you, that would be a 3 minute TIG job.

perfect, thanks..

4 months later
#4485 6 years ago

Vid, something I didn't see, or just missed it, How many coats of clear? I know you have to sand between coats, but didn't see how many you recommend. I also didn't see too much about the actual spray method. I think you said something about flood and go. can you explain a little more, or point me to the post so I can read it. thanks

#4491 6 years ago

Vid, what is you recommendation on cleaning this? I believe this is planking? I started a little with ME/Alcohol. But wanted your opinion before I did to much. I can get a lot of it clean that way, but not entirely. On a positive, I picked up a bottle of Hot Pink Fluorescent Createx yesterday, and the color is almost a perfect match, so if I have to repaint all the pink, I'll probably shoot it right out of the bottle.

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#4493 6 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

On a such a light color, there probably is not really a sure fire way to **clean** if.
On a dark color like black or cobalt, you sometimes can wipe paint into the cracks and make them less visible.
I suspect, you will have to mask it off and repaint.

what kind of cleaning do i need to do before that, just good wipe with naptha? Or what? There are better pics in my thread.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dealers-choice-repair-restore#post-3821346

#4495 6 years ago

Vid, you say i need to spray a "lock down" coat of 2pac, is the purpose to just lock down the paint for where it is fragile? The paint on this isn't flaking or coming up anywhere. If it wasn't for the planking, it would be great. I think you are going to say its also so that you can easily wipe off or remove your new paint. But just want to make sure. I'm going to try to clean up as much as i can of the pf. Hopefully i can get away with painting the pink and toughing up the others a little. don't want to try to repaint the cards and the numbers. Also around some of the roll over holes, they are chewed up a little. i think i saw where i should bondo them, correct?

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