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so what are you going with for fixing the holes? I have the same on my TZ, hole from screw from under the PF... high quality scan and laser color printed on decal paper?
Should the hole be filled? Any protection on the top of the decal once installed?
Never done art repair on PF before...
Quoted from vid1900:You could just put a piece of Mylar over the area
Here is the damaged part, not really a screw hole but there is a hole on top of the PF.
Should I go HD scan of good PF and print a decal with some Clear Water Slide film or try paint/airbrush route?
I am hoping I can just remove the Mylar, fix it with either of above scenario then put new Mylar on top so I don't have to clear coat the whole thing?
Quoted from vid1900:Since you are not going to clear the playfield, you can just do a "good enough" spot touchup with a brush and acrylic paint and then cover with new Mylar.
One day when you want to do a high end restore, you can remove the Mylar and fix it permanently.
Yes, I wish I had the space and installation to do PF clearcoat... maybe some day! 
Quoted from hisokajp:Yes, I wish I had the space and installation to do PF clearcoat... maybe some day!
I would like to patch clear between the acrylic paint repair and the new patch of Mylar, I was recommended to use a high gloss ultra-smooth lacquer for special purpose (acrylic) but I couldn't quite find that in my HD this morning. Do you have a recommendation?
Quoted from vid1900:You probably need to go to an auto paint store if you want some good lacquer.
Even if you found it at HD, it would probably be crap.
(BTW, I'm not recommending anyone use lacquer rather than 2PAC.....do not email me asking questions about it)
ok thanks, I just thought Mylar directly on top of the touch up paint wouldn't be great without anything in between
Quoted from vid1900:Since you are not going to clear the playfield, you can just do a "good enough" spot touchup with a brush and acrylic paint and then cover with new Mylar.
One day when you want to do a high end restore, you can remove the Mylar and fix it permanently.
I am really getting nowhere on this...
I have filled the screw hole with bondo and sanded smooth (not uber smooth but some paint was coming off already…) with 2000 grit wet sandpaper.
I bought the Createx Opaque Airbrush set and first tried using a paintbrush but the brush strokes were too visible so I thought what the hell and bought an HF airbrush.
I just can’t get the right marine blue as the original one and you can still see some of the underlying woodgrain. It gets even worse when I try to do the little lighter bleu line in between…
I tried mixing the color several times but it always end up too “flat” compare to PF factory shinny bleu, is there something I am missing?
The Frisket helps for the bigger shape though when I do the second color some of the frisket glue sticks to the first one and I can't really wipe it clean without wiping the paint.
Quoted from vid1900:It looks like you need to add more dark blue to better match that color.
Once the paint dries, wipe the area with Naphtha to see how the color will look when shiny.
Assume that the paint will slightly darken once clearcoated or overlaid with Mylar.
So I went and got an “Ultramarine Blue” from Michaels and the shade is way better. I just couldn't get there with the Createx ones... I had the perfect match when paint brushing the color, even after drying but it does come out a bit “strong” once airbrushed on (pics). However after wiping a quick naphtha on it the color do look similar. The blue next to it now turned “white-ish” quite a bit from all the nearby sanding and action to try and fix the PF, not sure if that is an issue on its own? Looks fine when Naphtha is on it so I am hoping with the coat of clear in a can I will do before putting the new mylar on it should look ok?
I am a bit worried about the Bondo “edge” you can see in the picture. I covered up the screw hole and the surrounding where paint wore off and wood was visible to try and get a smooth surface (else the grain of the PF wood could be seen in the paint). I sanded down to a point where you can see through the Bondo but there is obviously still some “micro” edge where the Bondo stops… I am afraid that will still show even after clearing, should I push harder with the sanding? I still need the Bondo to cover the bare wood so I am not sure I can ever completely get rid of the “edge”?
Sorry for all the questions, I am really just shooting in the dark here
Quoted from vid1900:Lot's of people have done it, usually with backyard car painters.
so what would I actually ask a local car body shop if I wanted to see if they can do one of my PF? Just if they could give it a couple coat of automotive clear coat? What would be a 'normal' price range to see if they are not trying to rip me off?
Quoted from vid1900:A Brad-Point drill bit has two "wings" that are razor sharp. These wings will cleanly cut away the Clear from around the hole, without lifting the clear.
Choose a Brad Point bit that has wings just slightly larger than the threads on the screw. Always use a brand new bit; don't bite yourself in the ass by taking a shortcut here.
Warm the area with a hair dryer.
A brand new bit will easily cut away the clear, even when turned by hand.
3.jpg
brad_tip.jpg
what size of drill bit do you recommend for most holes on a TAF for example?
Quoted from vid1900:TAF has lots of different sized holes.
Usually you get a kit of 7 Brand-point bits, so that should cover you nicely.
nice, so something like this set?
http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Shop-Brad-Point-Drill/dp/B014XEJZPO/ref=sr_1_17
Quoted from vid1900:A Brad-Point drill bit has two "wings" that are razor sharp. These wings will cleanly cut away the Clear from around the hole, without lifting the clear.
Choose a Brad Point bit that has wings just slightly larger than the threads on the screw. Always use a brand new bit; don't bite yourself in the ass by taking a shortcut here.
Warm the area with a hair dryer.
A brand new bit will easily cut away the clear, even when turned by hand.
What size of bits to you recommend to use? something like the 1/8" on this set?
http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW1720-Brad-Point-6-Piece/dp/B005GOM3VO/ref=sr_1_1
Quoted from vid1900:You will want a few small sizes depending on the hole in question.
Think of those little headless finishing nails in some games....
right, I ll have to look around more, I couldn't fine anything under 1/8"
Quoted from vid1900:STUFF YOU ARE GOING TO NEED TO CLEAR A PLAYFIELD.
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paint-respirator.jpg
Next you need the all important Chem-mask. You can get one at the store that sells you the clear for $29. Home Depot sells an Isocyanate rated mask, but it is not with the other dust masks, it's in the isle with the Mold abatement products. Don't ask me why.
You need to wear the Chem-mask anytime you spray clear, rattle can paint, work with solvents (Naphtha, Toluene, Lacquer Thinner...) or sand painted cabinets (commercial products continued to use lead paint well into the 2000s - you can safely assume any pinball cabinet is painted with lead paint). Do not sand pinball cabinets in your basement or garage - you will NEVER get the lead dust out.
Your Chem-mask only works if it is sealed to your face. That means you need to shave the day of the spraying. That means you people with fancy facial hair are going to need to shave the mask's pattern through it.
You need to keep the mask in it's thick zip-lock bag when not in use. The chem part of the mask lasts about 40 hours of use, and then you can start to smell the stench of the clear. Don't continue if you can smell the clear - stop and replace the cartridges!
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Is that the one form HD? I could not fine one that specify Isocyanate rated?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Medium-Lead-Paint-Removal-Respirator-62093HA1-C/202080148
it's not really a PF question but since I don't think there is an "Ultimate Apron Restoration" thread... 
My BTC Aron could use some love... there are pretty deep scratch in the plastic, not sure how to smooth these out?
Haven't found decal for that one either yet, not sure airbrushing the graphic back on would work great either?
Quoted from vid1900:See if a magnet sticks to it.
Definitely plastic, no magnets stick to it
scan_(resized).jpg
So should I go with any Vinyl sticker printing solution? I get my water slide decal at Staples, they may be able to do that as well?
Quoted from vid1900:At 2000 grit, you can just start to see the outline of the overhead lighting on the playfield.
You can go to 2500 grit, or jump to polishing.
Many auto re-finishers jump to polishing after 1500 grit, so 2000 is a good jump off point for us.
So I feel like I may have sanded too much of my CC... I did all the way from 600-2000 as advised but maybe too much/too strong on each grit? Maybe my CC was too thin to start with?
I can feel some of my insert edge now which make me feel like I may have sanded even some of the factory CC on a NOS PF... It's not bad but I can definitely feel the edge with my finger and the "mirror" look is gone, even with a whole lot of polishing... I feel like I just took too much off? :S
Quoted from marspinball:Here is something I shouldn't have to fix but what's the best thing to do with a chip in the shooter lane on a new machine. I contacted Stern and they have sent me a small bottle of clear coat and a small sheet of sandpaper (200).
whoa... that some great support for a GB LE... O_O
So I have a repro gold PF from CPR which at a big glow of glue? behind one of the insert. I tried cleaning it out with a Qtip and alcohol but it just spread it around. It all stuck and dried out now...
I am not sure how to clean that out without damaging it? I can't imagine the insert needs to be swapped and the whole thing recleared... right?
20200918_182508 (resized).jpgyeah, looks very cloudy and blotchy, with or without light it's pretty visible... it looks better when I put some Naphta on top so I am wondering if I could put a couple drop of clear in the back? or something similar?
I feel if i tried too hard the lens will get worse, i really don't want to have to get the lens swap and PF cleared again...
Quoted from PinFixin:What would you recommend to fix these enlarged hole?
This is on my future spa on probably the highest stress area on any pinball machine. A mini post bolted through the playfield right in front of the flippers. These things get pummeled quite a bit. I've read that people say Bondo is too soft and to use Qwikwood, and then others say Qwikwood isn't for use on playfields and to use Bondo, and HEP uses Bondo. One of those answers is completely wrong for this application but I don't know which, or if there is something else?
I wanted to fill with something to remove the hole, then drill a hole for a #10 mini post bolt, and either go into a t-nut (preferred) or just a washer and nut underneath. Or would you guys recommending something different?
Pics:
[quoted image][quoted image]
I'm even open to the idea of thinking outside the box and putting a different, newer style post there that would hold up better to the onslaught, but not be any larger in diameter to make the shot more difficult.
most people would use good wood dowel with wood glue to fill holes like this but for post that get hammer hard like this one i would seriously think about using a Tnut and a mchine screw type post, with a washer underneath that may cover your hole anyway?
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Redmond, WA
Got mine from PBressource