Would someone mind helping out with this post? Asking about what I can actually inject to fix a delaminating decal over an insert.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mylar-removal-lead-to-insert-delaminating

Refrigerate! Heck, I can just leave it outside

Awesome, thank you!

Thanks. So, sounds like the spraymax is good to go then.

Question for you folks... I am swapping an insert from my Jurassic Park playfield because the new playfield was missing the "S" in CHAOS. I sliced it out and heated and removed it but the "S" decal lifted off on one side and then basically peeled all the way off. I epoxied the insert in. The C also has some liftage which I need to inject clear into. Can I "glue" the entire S back on with clear as well? Maybe putting some wax paper over it and something flat to keep it seated? Or would it be better to go with a water decal? I have them but not sure my inkjet is working so don't want to go to the trouble unless I have to.

Oh, I've read.. that's why I was asking if I could glue the entire "decal" back down (the entire circle that covered the "S" insert). Meaning, would that be an appropriate way to solve it. I know that is a solution for the "flap" but wanted to know if that was also fine to try for the entire piece (which is completely detached).

Thanks on the note for inkjet... odd that I have these decal sheets from Testors that are inkjet only which I thought I bought for this purpose some time ago. Makes sense when you think about it.

Thanks!

Is there a way to laminate or clear a decal before applying it? For example, I have one insert on my TOM that is basically gone. Can I buy this set (ebay.com link: THEATRE OF MAGIC Pinball Machine Insert Decals ) and spray a clear coat on the decal first and then install it? I'd rather not try to clear it in the game. I was thinking my other option was putting some mylar over it. I figured I could carefully remove the rest of the decal with an xacto. I can't find these decals laminated anywhere, although it looks like they used to exist.

Thanks!

I can't find much information on installing pre-printed decals. I bought the two decal sheets available for my TOM, the main illusion area and the insert decals. I have one insert that is completely gone, so that will be an easy install. These are self-adhesive, so I assume that is fine and I don't need to use clear to hold it down?

The main playfield area decal has the insert paint/writing on it already for the illusions so from what I've read I need to remove the original paint from the inserts so the light will shine through. What is the best way to do this with minimal damage to the rest of the playfield? I mean, I know it's getting covered but I'd rather do the least damage and the only thing I can think of is sanding.

Are there any other tips for using these self-adhering decals? I am not sure if I am going to install wet, I feel like that would be the best for me since I can take time and align it properly. But, maybe if I can see light through the inserts and decal I can tape it down in place and remove parts of the back covering as I squeege it down (like I've seen large vinyl decals installed)?

Finally, I am not planning on clear coating this playfield. It's not in that great of shape so this is a bit of a bandaid to keep it going. I am going to install a playfield protector from playfield-protectors.com. Is there anything I need to consider with this and the decals or can I just apply the protector on top of them and it's all good?

**Oh, also, the seller said the decals were coated. I am worried there might have been some language barriers to that but does it matter either way since I'm putting the protector over?

The problem is the game isn't in good enough shape to support a brand new playfield. And the playfield isn't that bad that it's worth tossing. Cabinet has some dings, so I'd want to re-decal it. Head has some dings, so I'd have to fill and paint... I had to end up replacing the ramps and I'm going to do something with the wireforms (and probably the lockdown/legs/rails) either plated or powdered. I just had to get new plastics set too because a few that I need aren't available anywhere. So, for about 1/4 the price I am going to do what I can to retain this playfield as long as I can. One missing insert isn't really worth it...and frankly, the main illusion area is good enough that I could just leave it. There is only the slightest bit of wear around the inserts. I figured as long as I was doing the other insert and putting a protector on I might as well do the main area. It's freaking dim as it is already so how much worse could it be? I really can't justify $1100 on a playfield right now.

***edit... Damnit.. now you're making me reconsider. I just bought $250 worth of "invisible" glass too. Have the indestructible trunk. Argh

I don't know, you're advocating replacing a playfield because one insert is missing. Doesn't equate for me. Plus I am doing a playfield swap (with a used playfield) on my JP right now, not ready to do another right now.

Meh, already have the parts on the way. I can't see the harm in installing now even if I'm going to replace the playfield later.

Still looking for answers to my questions.

Damnit... now I'm talking with Mirco. You persuasive bastards. My wife is going to be less than excited, lol. But this is her game, so maybe she'll be pleasantly surprised. Now the question is can I boogie through my JP playfield swap before the Mirco arrives.

Yeah, I read it and saw all the comparison photos. I was not aware he was going to make the TAG version. I'll ask him timing on that.

He says he is working on it, 5 weeks. I'm looking at getting in on that.

Can I get a bit of insight into the waterslide situation? Specifically a new/old playfield for JP I got was missing the "S" in "CHAOS" insert. I had a donor playfield that I attempted to cut around the insert and remove it using the methods here, which worked fine but the "decal" with the lettering on it flaked away from the insert. I don't know if this was a decal originally, but I have a circular piece of transparent (slightly yellow) material with the S and a black border that came away from the insert. I saved it, hoping to glue it down with clear but it's looking a little bad (is cracked a bit). I still might attempt using it, since I think the clear might mend the crack but I wanted to look into the water slide option.

Is this good stuff? (20 sheets thinner film) https://www.amazon.com/Sunnyscopa-Urethane-Transfer-Transparent-sheets/dp/B07L5829GY/ref=sr_1_2

While I'm doing that, I have another insert that had some ghosting from pulling up mylar (the one issue with a lot of mylar removal, argh!). I have some smaller needles from giving my dog shots, I'm wondering if SprayMax is as thick as regular auto clear? I read about needing a larger needle to inject and all I can find on amazon are blunt needles, but I am guessing sharp tip would be preferred. I saw the vendor posted but it seems like their options are expensive. I can't really test this since I only have one can of clear and if it doesn't work I can only make the can last so long in the fridge. Another thought I had was I could just remove that insert decal and replace it since I might be doing waterslide anyhow. This alleviates the need for needles and it sounds like I can just lay down a bit of clear on the inserts, lay down the water slides and clear the whole thing. Am I understanding that correctly?

Which is the best way for me, a relative novice in playfield restoration? I am somewhat apprehensive about the waterslide option, that I could match the fonts and layout well enough.. although I already scanned and re-created the S in photoshop. Then again, I also question if I can get the existing decals to lay down again with clear injection, never having done it before and not really having a way to practice. I would think the waterslide route would be more forgiving, I can just redo them if they don't look good (before I clear over).

And then what? Use my non-existent magic airbrush and non-exisent skill to paint a semi-transparent consistent layer of black to make it match the decals right next to it? That sounds like it would only work if a lot of luck was involved.

It's a semi-transparent letter... it's not solid black. The light shines through it. I have no experience doing this.. why not waterslide? That's what OP suggests?

You guys are killing me. So much work and stuff to buy just to replace one decal. I don't envision doing this much, if ever again. I read all about water decals and how those fix missing inserts, etc... why is that not a good solution?

What about the needle situation? Does anyone have input if a small veterinary 3ml needle for injecting my dog would have a large enough needle (I don't see where it says the size) to push out the SprayMax clear? It has the luer lock or whatever. I've used them for thick e-liquid THC and it was tough if the stuff was too thick but that was comprised of some solids/wax. I just don't want to break open the 2X and find out the needle is too small to push it through.

My plan, per the threads and key posts here, was to clear the insert missing the decal first. At the same time I'd inject and clamp the ghosting one. Then apply the waterslide decal. Then clear the entire playfield.

Is that correct?

Thanks guys. I only have one missing decal and one ghosting. I don't really want to replace them all and they are just black lettering with a circle outline (CHAOS on JP). I sanded the playfield up to 800 grit so far, need to work on the shooter lane a bit with a rounded backer. So then I'll clear, sand, apply decals and clear again. Guess I should probably pickup another can of SprayMax.

I have one lifting insert (but the decal looks fine). It's lifted just enough that my fingernail catches it. Is that worth trying to lower with the hair dryer method?

Createx was supposed to be airbrush ready, as far as I read. That is what I bought but I've yet to get an airbrush. I did touchups on my WOZ cabinet with paint brushes. It stands out a bit still because it isn't cleared yet.

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Can you talk a bit about what you did there? Did you end up sanding the inside/bottom of the cabinet to get that result? Did you do anything after that? I am doing a JP right now and the cabinet interior is HORRIBLE but I didn't remove anything yet, just the playfield, and wasn't sure if I would but I guess now is that time.

So, I've been tempted with the restore of my JP playfield (following the guides here, doing waterslide decals, paint touchups and clearing) to also clear my TOM playfield. I am restoring it using the decals which are sold (for the main illusion area and for a few inserts). Can I just lay down a coat of clear, add the decals and then add a few more coats over that? I am envisioning just like the waterslide decals.

Thanks.

I was aware of what this thread had to say, but wasn't sure on the specifics of using these sticky labels versus waterslide. That's exactly how I did my waterslide.

So, according to the guide I found the "thin" waterslide paper. Well, on my JP this was not the correct choice. It left the inserts about half the thickness shallow of the waster paper. So now the two letters "C" and "S" in CHAOS are indented a bit. I thought 3 coats of clear would smooth it out a bit, it did not. When I sanded the edges of the raised portion around the lowered decal got sanded too much and I had to do additional touchups.

I am now considering spraying some clear in just those areas to let it build up a bit, then re-clearing the whole thing and sanding down again. I only sanded with 400/800. The rest of the playfield looks awesome.

On another note, the laser printing on the waterslide was not dark or consistent enough to match the other characters. So I ended up painting over the letters with black acrylic. It looks much better in terms of transparency and solid matching of the other letters but it has my "close" to the lines touchups which makes it look somewhat amateurish. If I was better I am sure I would cut out some vinyl to match the decal and airbrush the various areas but I don't have that kind of interest or investment.

So, I think I would have been much better off with the thicker waterslide paper. If you have any suggestions on this I'll hold off a bit to see if someone responds. I assume there is no clear filler that anyone can suggest. I really don't want to remove the decals and start over.

What the F is 2Pac? He's dead! I can't find reference to this and I scrolled back in the posts and Vid just mentions it but can't find where he talks about what it is or where to get it. Amazon has no idea what 2Pac resin is.

Well... now that I'm at this stage not sure if I should add a 2nd water decal (it may be too thick at this point) or leave it as it is (I can add mylar over these later I suppose) or try to fill with "2pac". I guess another option is to remove the decals again and then start over with two. But that means I have to clear again under them, ugh.

OOOOOHhhh... so just 2 part auto clear, ok. Well, I'm using SprayMax so I'll have to bust open another can. When I tried to re-adhere the old decals (ghosting) I tried the needle injection method with the SprayMax and didn't get good results, so I just removed them and did the waterslide. Can I do the same with the SprayMax in sort of spraying it in to a cup and using an eyedropper to fill in the void? I assume it's the same process since, as far as I know, SprayMax is pretty much just like any other 2 part auto clear.

Posted. TY

Just about done polishing. I went with 400/600/800 grit, Mazerna intensive polish, 3M swirl remover, Mazerna final polish II and then carnuba wax. I am still on the final polish, taking a bit to get out those fine scratches. It's really like glass... I also didn't wait 1 week, 2 weeks, 4 weeks to let this stuff cure (Spray Max). I don't see how that is really a thing when this stuff is used for auto repair and there is no way those cars sit for any length of time. I'd say, based on the time I put in, it was well worth it. I'd probably not have spent $1k on a playfield but a few hundred for a playfield and some labor seems worth it.

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AHHH success. What a chore polishing is, even with a powered polisher. I now remember why I have all of these car care products and never used them. Thanks for all the help and the great guide @vid1900. Now I need to clear out all the holes and remove the light sockets (I forgot to cover them up, oh well). Then, on to wiring!

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I did it, I'm a noob. If decals are available, I'd do that. I am doing it now on my TOM. IF not then you make your own or worse case airbrush them back on with stencils.

Doh yeah, forgot the adhesion promoter. Hopefully they stick, I put a light coat of clear below them. Or maybe it's the clear to the insert that is the issue, they were sanded well. Guess we'll see.

Good note, I go LEDs anyhow but good to know.

Ok, so what are the possibilities that I can clear my TOM playfield without removing the under playfield elements?

I was thinking maybe I could plug up all of the holes (switch slots, lamp sockets) but still would be worried about water from wet sanding getting down there (and polish from buffing). Is this just a bad idea? If I was doing a playfield swap I'd be less hesitant in removing all of the assemblies as I have no problem putting it back together but I know I'll have some wire cutting to do and I really don't want to deal with re-soldering it all back together. I was trying to do a "quickie" restore with the playfield decals and a playfield protector but my work on the JP playfield has me jonesing for a freshly cleared TOM playfield. Then again, Mirco is supposed to be making the right colored ones for the US market soon. Argh, the decisions.

Thanks!

Awesome, thanks for the details. I'm thinking I'll give it a try.

BRILLIANT!

Heh... I did that on a few holes on my JP because I ran out of older bulbs and then pulled all the bulbs out to do something (I think sand) and forgot to put them back in. So I cleared most of the sockets. I'll replace them with the ones from my other playfield or new but wasn't planning on it.

Smrt.

Cool, thanks. Now the Spray max thread has me concerned about PPE and respirators after I just did my JP playfield.

How would you treat this large of an insert area? I have a large decal to apply to the whole area, so there will presumably be sunken areas where the inserts are. I wasn't sure if in this case it would be prudent to try and raise the inserts level? Or should I hit the area with a coat of clear first so it can level itself a bit, then apply decal, then clear the whole thing? Or maybe I should drop a bit of clear in each insert to level it and smooth it out?

I had this situation a bit on my JP (first time using waterslide) and overall the lower areas smoothed themselves out pretty well after a few thick coats of Spray Max.

Open to suggestions. Btw, this was sanded to about a 300 grit and then I'm going to do 600 to get it smooth.

The other inserts on the game are fine since the decals are just the insert area.

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The repro isn't the right one for the US market yet, wrong colors. They said they were reproducing it in the right colors, waiting on that to see.

But, I have the decals... I have the playfield... I have the clear... why not restore it? Isn't that what this thread is?

Thanks everyone! Clear it is.