(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

By vid1900

11 years ago


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  • Latest reply 5 days ago by Jagrmaister
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Topic index (key posts)

143 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #7 Playfield damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #8 Insert damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #34 How to sand your new inserts flat. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #35 Cleaning old glue out of the insert holes. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)


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#6364 5 years ago

I've got a question regarding waterslide decals and when to apply them. My playfield is pretty bad, the color is flacking in some areas and many parts are beyond a simple repaint.
My plan is as follows:
1.Get the dirt off using ME and isoprop and take off the mylar and the glue. Since it's an old playfield I assume using a heat gun should do the trick.
2. Give the playfield one or two light coats of clear.
3. Apply the decals (a lot of them) to all areas and repaint the others with acrylics.
4. Give the playfield a light and a heavy coat of clear.

Now I'm totally unsure how long I have to wait to apply the decals to the first clearcoat? The clear I'm using is dry after 12h (according to the manual), is this enough or should I wait longer? Next question would be the time the decals have to "sit" on the playfield before they are ready to be coated?

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1 month later
#6481 5 years ago

This might be a pretty stupid question. I'm trying to clean and strip a playfield and I'm wondering how to get the wodden "frame" of the playfield off? The left, wooden rail of the shooter lane was screwed on from the back, so no problem, but the frame pieces don't have screws on the back. Are they nailed on the playfield from the back? If so, what is my best option to get them off? Pulling on the painted wood with pliers seems not optimal.

#6487 5 years ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

frogger1108 - when you reassemble, consider using screws instead of re-stapling. Some Bally machines I've seen that were stapled actually had screw holes pre-drilled (empty) on the frames, right next to the staples. Probably a MFG cost-cutting move at the time.

Thanks. You were right, the side was stapled on with 7 stables and they had pre-drilled holes for screws. I removed them and drilled holes for new screws, makes one wonder how much money they saved by that ?

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