(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

By vid1900

11 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 8,789 posts
  • 803 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 hours ago by Jagrmaister
  • Topic is favorited by 1,972 Pinsiders
  • Topic is sticky in its sub-forum

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

20240419_165132 (resized).jpg
20240415_125716 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240404_002101962 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240404_002010342 (resized).jpg
THUMP BUMP HOLE ENLARGE1 (resized).JPG
THUMP BUMP HOLE ENLARGE2 (resized).JPG
IMG_3225 (resized).JPG
IMG_3141 2 (resized).JPG
image (resized).jpg
Pinside_forum_1762038_386370 (resized).jpg
IMG_3141 (resized).JPG
PXL_20240304_203555066 (resized).jpg
20240301_160448 (resized).jpg
20240301_131123 (resized).jpg
IMG_2646 (resized).jpeg
IMG_3299 (resized).jpeg

Topic index (key posts)

143 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #7 Playfield damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #8 Insert damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #34 How to sand your new inserts flat. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #35 Cleaning old glue out of the insert holes. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider flipper_mcgavin.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#7094 3 years ago

I just want to comment and say how much of a pain in the ass it is to color-match using Createx paint. It's probably not a drawback inherent to only this brand, but there are too many variables affecting your initial color-matched paint you mixed up. I had my paint change color when it dried which was expected, when it had mineral spirits applied (mimick clearcoat) which was expected, but it also changed color when I added required reducer to use in the airbrush. It's very difficult trying to project that many steps out on how the color will eventually be.

I finally airbrushed 5 of the 6 yellow bands to my liking, I still have to clean up the black edges. And I didn't airbrush the entire band on any of them, I stopped where there was a forgiving breakup of the color, as I only wanted to paint where there was severe planking and to keep as much of the originality as possible. One of the yellow bands looked fine so I left it original.

Are there more user-friendly paints out there that are of the same quality as Createx? I've seen Tamiya brand, but I do not know if that brand suffers the same high-learning curve on mixing.

DSC_2990 (resized).JPGDSC_2990 (resized).JPG

#7097 3 years ago

That online color mixer is such a valuable tool. You likely want to make sure your monitor is calibrated to accurate color. Nearly every monitor is set to a color temperature that is too blue, and some monitors don't even have color correction settings. Fortunately I have a colorimeter and a monitor that is color-calibrated, this thing could come in handy. The Golden High Flow paint is priced the same as Createx.

#7101 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

That looks great!

Thanks man, after a few other color touchups and a "Lost Treasure" insert text repaint, I will be clearcoating it with Spraymax and then re-swap out the Micro playfield with this one. I can probably try a waterslide decal for the Lost Treasure but I have no idea if the Spraymax would dissolve the decal or the printer ink.

I'm using the opaque yellow 5204, and I'm mixing it with the wicked colors orange 0004. After using the reducer I had to add more of the orange because it looked like it was reverting back to the 5204.

1 year later
#7790 2 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

I suspect the playfield wasn't sanded with the proper grit.

What grit are you personally using to sand a playfield before clearcoating? I use a magic eraser.

#7793 2 years ago

How thick can you spot-clear? I have an insert that is bowed upward where the center of the insert is level with the playfield and the edges are gapped maybe 1/16" at the most. I will fill the insert heavy with Spraymax 2K clear when i clear the entire playfield, right now it just has water in it to see how it leveled itself.
Untitled (resized).jpgUntitled (resized).jpg

#7795 2 years ago

Yup, already leveled the insert so that the highest point is level with the playfield. The center of the insert ("W" in Willie's) is the high point. The edges are gapped downward maybe 1/16" from the playfield. I think the Spraymax should fill it pretty good, I'll just shoot the aerosol into that spot for like 5 seconds straight, and then further fill it in after it dries.

#7799 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Spraying into a mixing cup is the preferred method (get small 4 or 6 oz disposable ones at the auto paint store) , then apply to the area with a disposable pipette.
There will be bubbles in the cup, let it sit 5 mins or so before applying.
If you see bubbles anywhere after splooging onto the playfield, poke them with the end of the pipette or a naptha cleaned needle.

I remember spraying Spraymax 2K into a cup to try and drip onto inserts. I got a lot of bubbles in the cup that weren't going away even after stirring for a couple minutes, and when I dripped it onto the insert it still had hundreds of tiny bubbles so I sanded it off. It was a plastic cup that the clear was slowly eating through so maybe the reaction is what was causing bubbles.

I bought glass bottles and glass pipettes to maybe try the drip method again. I read before that aerosol clearcoats require a lot of stirring to allow outgassing and remove bubbles, maybe I didn't wait the 5 minutes before using.

1 week later
#7846 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I have sprayed into a mixing cup with good results by spraying a bit slower (fast dribbling?) to not agitate the fluid too much before starting a spraying session.

I just tried this before going the route of buying different clearcoat for spot fills, and your tip worked well. Only a few bubbles showed up in the spot fills I did with the Spraymax unlike the hundreds of bubbles last time. The trick is to definitely spray very slowly into a vial, took me several minutes to fill up probably 1/4th ounce.

2 months later
#7910 2 years ago

Try liquid frisket, it leaves zero residue. It's what I use.

#7916 2 years ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

I’ve never heard of liquid Frisket until now; isn’t that by definition much harder to apply in the way we need it?

You paint the liquid frisket around all the detailed areas using Grafix Incredible Nib and wait for it to dry clear which takes maybe 20 minutes, and then mask off the larger areas of the playfield with paper so that you don't waste so much of the liquid frisket. It leaves zero residue, and I mean zero. I read too many posts from people saying frisket film leaving a residue so I'll never use the stuff. I used liquid frisket when airbrushing parts of the aqua blue water on my playfield.
a7c8eddc0ad9c542838dfe692b57b889d7de2ea7 (resized).jpga7c8eddc0ad9c542838dfe692b57b889d7de2ea7 (resized).jpg
20220109_142122 (resized).jpg20220109_142122 (resized).jpg

#7919 2 years ago

Using that nib or paint brush, you can paint the frisket fine enough to go right up to the keylines. It is a liquid so it does very good at preventing 100% overspray getting into the areas it's applied at, unlike tape where the touchup paint can still find a way to get underneath it if not sealed 100%. It dries to a rubbery silicone touch and will not pull up any touchup paint if this liquid frisket is applied over it and later removed. I never tried trimming liquid frisket with a blade.

#7921 2 years ago

I used to draw with pencils that's about it. I've never painted or airbrushed before, I have done two playfields now. I learned how only by screwing up on the playfields, wiping them off, and restarting.

#7926 1 year ago

I use liquid frisket only for the detailed areas, and then apply painter's tape beyond the boundaries of the liquid frisket. Then I use a roll of brown kraft paper to cover the larger areas of the playfield. The only important thing when masking are those detailed adjacent edges to the area you are airbrushing which is why liquid frisket works so well, and beyond that I just try to find whatever I can to cover the larger areas of the playfield and kraft paper works easily. I have recently read you can spray liquid frisket and that also you can trim liquid frisket with a blade, two things I had no idea about.

1 month later
#7996 1 year ago

Since they all disappear when you apply naphtha, they are fish eyes: tiny open craters at the surface. I doubt you have one, but you can use a jeweler's loupe to better see them and understand. You probably had solvent on that area of the playfield before you cleared. The easier way is so shoot more clearcoat rather than sanding, it will fill all those fish eyes. The letters on the inserts began disappearing because the inserts were elevated above the playfield wood, so they are the first thing to go when block sanding. I had to repaint letters on inserts on my White Water I'm restoring because of this also. This is why I now prefer using 4+ cans of Spraymax to clearcoat a playfield as it builds up the clear enough to allow more grace when block sanding. Playfields are not flat enough to blocksand properly with only 1 or 2 cans Spraymax. Next time I want to buy an HVLP sprayer with a gallon of clear coat that way I can more easily flood an entire playfield.

#7999 1 year ago
Quoted from rdrapeau3171:

You may be right about the fisheyes, but this occurred only after my 5th application of clearcoat.

I have had scenarios where my first few cans of coats laid perfectly on the playfield, then the next can I would get fish eyes. They could be caused by more than just solvents on the surface, maybe improper technique, weather, or quality control of the cans.

2 weeks later
#8027 1 year ago

I doubt you have one, but you can probably use a high magnification jeweler's loupe to see if the clearcoat around the lettering is elevated above the black ink. Then you'd know for sure you can wet sand.

1 month later
#8124 1 year ago

Diamondplate playfields are durable enough you can use a magic eraser and rubbing alcohol. It will clean and get into crevices of dirt nicely, it removes touchup paint without removing original paint, and since magic erasers are abrasive it also sands the playfield for clearcoating.

I do touchups before clearcoating otherwise the touchups will look like they are floating above the surface, but if you spray a thin enough layer of clear then i think it would be ok and you also get the benefit of seeing how the original paint looks when cleared since the colors turn darker. It would help in regards to paint matching. I just finished restoring a White Water playfield, it was fun.

5 months later
#8311 1 year ago

Do you guys have decent luck removing large pieces of mylar from System 11 playfields without much paint lifting? Or, is there any way to tell beforehand if a lot of paint will likely lift up with the mylar? It's factory mylar that probably covers half the playfield. I use an upside-down compressed air can to remove mylar.

1 month later
#8356 1 year ago

I bought some Rapid Prep for cleaning the playfield before clearcoating. Does it have to be cleaned off with naphtha afterwards? My state banned naphtha. Wondering what the alternative is to clean it off, or does it evaporate on its own?

#8358 1 year ago

I can try that. It doesn't wipe off with isopropyl alcohol and a paper towel?

#8360 1 year ago

Ok good. I already did touchups so i won't even attempt to try it on this one. Or maybe carefully go around all the touchups.

I also used pinballinreno's Rapid Remover recommendation for mylar adhesive removal. It took that stuff right off. Whatever formula is in it is in an entirely different league than Goo Gone. Half the playfield was factory mylared, it would have taken a frustrating entire day with Goo Gone.

1 week later
#8369 1 year ago

Yeah sunken inserts are easy to fix by dropping in clear coat. It will not impair clarity of the inserts when dripping a thick layer of clearcoat in them (or at least it doesn't when I use Spraymax 2K). I like to spray 1+ coats of clear after the dripped clearcoat has flashed off, it helps even everything out when wet sanding.

9 months later
#8684 3 months ago

Next comes the fun part of cleaning all the holes of the wetsanded dust. If you rub some finishing oil in those areas the dust mostly disappears.

#8685 3 months ago
Quoted from Spunky1562:

How thick should the clear coat be? My factory coat plus new coat is .8 mm thick.

That's about how thick my clearcoated playfields are. I use 4 cans per playfield, sanding between each can. I can't get a level surface with just 1 can.

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
$ 12.95
From: $ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
 
$ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
 
$ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
From: $ 170.00
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 36.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 27.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 22.00
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
arcade-cabinets.com
 
From: $ 209.00
3,000 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Walnut Creek, CA
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 179.00
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 40.00
$ 10.00
$ 18.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 149.95
Boards
Allteksystems
 
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 18.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
 

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider flipper_mcgavin.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration?tu=flipper_mcgavin and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.