Quoted from vid1900:Usually I remove Mylar, Magic Eraser, and scrape paint off worn inserts .
Then I put down a light coat of clear.
This:
1. Locks down worn wood fibers, letting the paint adhere cleanly, without fuzz or texture.
2. Locks down existing paint - so masking tape and frisket don't lift paint and make more work for me.
3. Fills in planking and swirl. Sometimes the tiny cracks simply fill in and do not need further painting.
4. A new coat of clear highlights low spots that need to be brought up so the playfield is dead flat. A quick run of 220 grit sandpaper over the field will show much work needed. If you see shine, that spot is low!
Great guide Vid! I know that the water-based clear will yellow over time, but will it yellow if it's covered with automotive clear? Are they even compatible?
If someone didn't want to invest in the equipment needed to spray automotive clear, but wanted to lay down a light coat as per the above steps to do their touch-ups before they took it to someone to shoot the final clear, would that work?