(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

By vid1900

11 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

143 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #7 Playfield damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #8 Insert damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #34 How to sand your new inserts flat. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #35 Cleaning old glue out of the insert holes. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)


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#210 11 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Usually I remove Mylar, Magic Eraser, and scrape paint off worn inserts .
Then I put down a light coat of clear.
This:
1. Locks down worn wood fibers, letting the paint adhere cleanly, without fuzz or texture.
2. Locks down existing paint - so masking tape and frisket don't lift paint and make more work for me.
3. Fills in planking and swirl. Sometimes the tiny cracks simply fill in and do not need further painting.
4. A new coat of clear highlights low spots that need to be brought up so the playfield is dead flat. A quick run of 220 grit sandpaper over the field will show much work needed. If you see shine, that spot is low!

Great guide Vid! I know that the water-based clear will yellow over time, but will it yellow if it's covered with automotive clear? Are they even compatible?

If someone didn't want to invest in the equipment needed to spray automotive clear, but wanted to lay down a light coat as per the above steps to do their touch-ups before they took it to someone to shoot the final clear, would that work?

2 weeks later
#230 11 years ago

Vid, I'm seeing "adhesive promotion" sprays for sale at car parts stores. VHT has one that sprays on clear and looks to be aimed at rubber bumpers, plastic parts, etc. I may try one of these if I can find the 3M primer.

1 week later
#242 11 years ago

Grainger carries this 3M adhesive primer. Is this pretty much what you use? http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/3M-Elastomeric-Primer-2XLU5?Pid=search

1 month later
#320 10 years ago

Received my Molotow markers yesterday, and used them to do a little touch up around some inserts and some other black areas on my Whirlwind that I'm doing. If they do hold up to clear coating, they will be the cat's pajamas!

#321 10 years ago
Quoted from Pafasa:

How do you go about cleaning clear out of the holes? Specifically, the rollover switch slots, lamp holes, and especially the star cutouts for star rollovers? Is there a timeframe where the clear is soft enough to use an exacto? Is there a better tool or procedure you recommend?

This link from CPR may help you out: http://www.classicplayfields.com/guides.html

1 month later
#374 10 years ago
Quoted from erichill:

Hey Vid, can you recommend a source for the clear trays you use for mixing colors?

Not a tray, but Hobby Lobby sells clear plastic containers about the size of the old film canisters. They have a nice cap too, so when you are done you can snap the cap on and keep your excess for touch-ups or whatever. I think 6 of them were about $1.

I tried plastic packages that some RAM came in that I brought home from work, but ended up ditching it for the Hobby Lobby containers. I use the tray to put my airbrush parts in to soak when I tear it down.

3 months later
#509 10 years ago
Quoted from NickRocco:

This may be a dumb question but better to ask.
To remove the playfield would I disconnect all of the plugs that are bundled at the bottom left corner of the playfield?

Payfield.jpg 273 KB

Yes. Take some good pictures of the connections to the boards in the back box of the machine. You won't need to disconnect all of the plugs coming up from the bottom to the boards, but many of them. Some of them will be for flipper wiring, coin door wiring, power from the transformer, etc, those can stay plugged in. You can label them if you like, but good pictures should be sufficient. When it's time to plug them back in consult your pictures. The wires will have a memory from being bent in the same position for decades and want to go back where they were.

#512 10 years ago
Quoted from NickRocco:

Should I be disconnecting plugs at the boards or on the underside of the playfield?

Don't mess with the plugs (red circles). All wiring should be bundled together and then run up into the bottom of the back box (blue circle). It should run into some corrugated black tubing and then up into the back box.

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10 months later
#1221 9 years ago

Finished up my Whirlwind playfield this weekend and wanted to say thanks to Vid for all his invaluable advice. There are a few touch-ups that aren't perfect and some dust in the clear in spots. Is it perfect, no, but for my first playfield restoration I'm happy with it. IF I attempt another one in the future it will go much faster and better.

This Whirlwind didn't appear to be in bad shape, but when I got the mylar off I a lot of the paint came off with it over the inserts. I pulled most of the inserts and made my own waterslide decals to replace the lost artwork. When I was wet sanding the clear I found some inserts that weren't flush and got into the replacement artwork. That's when I discovered my clear wasn't adhering like it should, and ended up scraping off 75% of it with a razor blade and regluing the inserts flush and having to rework some areas. I think it got too cold overnight in my garage when I applied the clear.

I'm sure once I get the playfield repopulated with nice new plastics and clean parts it'll look great and play great!

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2 years later
#4119 7 years ago

Vid, how can you recreate the cloudy nature of inserts on later Williams games? I'm fixing slam-ramp damage on my NGG and had two inserts that had lifted by one of the gofers that I ended up re-gluing. I'm going to make new water slide decals for them, but they'll be clear compared to the other inserts that have a cloudy look under the ink. The original artwork was too damaged to use auto clear to hide the lifted edges.

Any tips on how to reproduce that look?

#4125 7 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Go to any real artist store, and get some rice papers.
A layer or two give that cloudy DiamondPlate look.

So a layer of rice paper, a coat of clear, and then the decal and clear? Thanks Vid!

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