(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration


By vid1900

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 6,784 posts
  • 634 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by brandsilence
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Topic index (key posts)

142 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #7 Playfield damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

Post #8 Insert damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

Post #34 How to sand your new inserts flat. Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

Post #35 Cleaning old glue out of the insert holes. Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

Post #38 Prime the insert with 3M Plastic Primer before gluing. Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

Post #60 Repairing Insert Ghosting - fill, clean, remove bubbles, cover. Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

Post #61 Repairing Insert Ghosting - clamp overnight. Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

Post #76 Source for needles - https://www.dispensinglink.com/needles.html Posted by rancegt (6 years ago)

Post #84 Air brush information. Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#1642 4 years ago

Vid -
Working on my beater Gottlieb High hand & this thread has given me enough confidence to attempt air brush touch up & clearcoat. I have (almost) everything removed from the topside & have started the cleaning process. Carefully pulled out all 11 wire ball guides & all that now remains are the finish nails behind drops & slings. What is the best removal process for these?
HH playfield (1) (Small).JPGHH playfield (2) (Small).JPGHH playfield (3) (Small).JPG

#1658 4 years ago
Quoted from erichill:

Is that the same one from the yard sale in Forest Grove this past summer? Pretty sure I looked at the same game.

No, I bought it before last summer in Salem.
Was a total disaster, but a good learning experience. Have WAY more into it than it will ever be worth.

1 week later
#1667 4 years ago
Quoted from chrisram22:

Vid,
And where can you buy the decal set solution you mentioned? I have never seen this.

I found it on Amazon.com

#1704 4 years ago
Quoted from cody_chunn:

I didn't see a section on polishing mylar. Is it mentioned in there somewhere?

I have often been accused of polishing turds when working on my EM's.....

2 months later
#1870 4 years ago

I source all of the maintenance items for our company & I prefer McMaster to Grainger.... You can actually FIND stuff in the McMaster catalog.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-adhesive-accessories/=weupqx

1 month later
#2008 4 years ago

Hey Vid -
The temp is finally getting to where I can paint again here in the Pacific NW & I'm ready to get back on my High hand project. I will be laying a coat of clear 2pac down first - My concern is the raised areas where the playfield post screws have pulled the wood up. Do I just sand these flat before clearing, or??

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#2011 4 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Use the round, plastic handle from a nut driver and pound the raised wood below the surface.
You can also use a doming set if you have one.

Cool, ok will do. Thanks!

1 week later
#2064 4 years ago

A lot of interesting shellac info here....
https://www.shellac.net/index.html

1 month later
#2129 4 years ago

Vid - what's the best way to attack silicone or wax on a playfield that has been worn to the wood?
It's easy to just wipe down an unworn painted surface with naptha, but when there is a lot of bare wood, the contaminants get down into it.

1 month later
#2211 4 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Just squirt some Lacquer Thinner in and out of the glass ones, but don't suck up so much thinner that it goes into the rubber bulb.
Plastic eyedroppers are disposable.

Cheap too -- this is what I ordered.

amazon.com link »

4 months later
#2724 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Believe it or not, the HP4670 is still the only game in town.
The HP 4600 series works fine with Windows8 and Windows10.
My company deployed new laptops with Win10 and I've tested the HP Vista64 drivers and confirm they work, no problem:
http://h20564.www2.hp.com/hpsc/swd/public/readIndex?sp4ts.oid=407839&swLangOid=8&swEnvOid=2100

Glad I picked one up when I could!

1 month later
#2799 3 years ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

This happened to me on my Dr. Dude restore. The entire playfield fisheyed. The whole thing. Block sanded it down, used a brass brush to scratch up the craters that remained. The next coat took great and filled up nearly all the craters. Blocked sanded one more time. Another coat. Good as new.
It looks like a nightmare but it's no big deal to fix.

me too, on my old High hand. Turned out OK, just a LOT of sanding.

1 month later
#2927 3 years ago

You need to be sure to have a pile of fresh clean wiping cloths when you start the naphtha cleaning process. If you use the same cloth you just end up smearing the silicone around. Change wiping cloths often.
Been there, done that.

3 months later
#3331 3 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

I think that looks great!! I wouldn't even bother trying to replicate grain if it were mine and looked like that.

I agree. Once the siderails are installed it will look fine.
Played one of those at the NW pin show, love the chimes in that early SS Bally! Fun game.

1 month later
#3475 3 years ago
Quoted from Raff:

a scan copy of the keyline decals would come in handy
Raff

+1, I would like to have a scan of all sizes for my future projects.

1 month later
#3588 3 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Have a gottlieb atlantis with a few inserts that are cupped. Whats the best approach to fix these? Hard tonsee in the pics, but they are sunken a bit in the middle and worn on the edges.
Thx

Read the guide, it's been covered many times already.

3 weeks later
#3663 2 years ago
Quoted from klr650:

I have recently switched from using epoxy to just using bamboo skewers and wood glue (as per Vid's suggestion in another thread). Dip skewer in glue, insert in hole, trim flush with side cutters. Quick and easy.

That's for stripped out screw holes.

Yes, I have used regular Locktite epoxy to repair a wire guide on my Embryon exactly like you described. Drill oversize, fill with epoxy, & redrill for wire size... that was 5 years ago & it's still holding up. This is in a spot where the wire gets constant direct hits by the ball from a flipper about 6" away.

1 month later
#3769 2 years ago
Quoted from PersonX99:

Good to know, thanks....I will build a temporary spray booth, keep the garage heated during the process, and hopefully I will avoid a disaster.

& wear your PPE!!!

1 month later
#3918 2 years ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

I sent my playfield for base clear coat and built a neat transport/levelling box. I did not strip the underside. The brackets on the sides are strategically placed so they do not hang on anything on the playfield. I thought I would share a picture.
-G

Nice , I have wanted to build one of those to protect the playfield when it's out of the cabinet. Or for transporting.

1 month later
#4050 2 years ago
Quoted from DaWezl:

Apologies in advance, but I will probably have a ton of questions over the next few months as I restore my Hi-Deal playfield! I've read through this thread and read a ton of other restoration threads, so I have a general idea of the steps involved, but just to be sure, is this the order I should proceed in?
1. Repair wood gouges
2. Sand surface
3. Light coat of clear coat (sand?)
4. Repaint colors
5. Light coat of clear coat (sand)
6. Apply decals
7. Final clear coat
Also I work 50 yards away from an automotive restoration business. I'm planning on asking them about spraying the clear coat for me. What should I ask for (i.e. type of clear coat, any technical specs)?
Finally, I've cleaned once with naphtha and once with magic eraser/alcohol. Is that sufficient to clean off the waxes, etc that may have been there over the years?
Thanks for all of the advice! I'm really excited to try this out!!

Seriously?
This has all been covered many times in this thread... Read it!

2 weeks later
2 months later
#4361 2 years ago
Quoted from Hillridge:

I didn't want to take everything off the play field, so I did a lot of masking instead. .

Would have been faster/better to remove all that stuff than masking it. You could have re-shot the wood side rails while you had them off. Made a huge difference on my Old Chicago.

5 months later
#5137 1 year ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

Having a tough time. I can find the original style nylon acorn nuts, but not the rubber barrel slip on/off type. Do you have a link>

Pinball resource - rubber -# RIN-PC http://www.pbresource.com/rubber/rin-pc.jpg
Tittan silicone - https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=33&product_id=52

1 year later
#6177 11 months ago
Quoted from phototamer:

No need to remove anything from the bottom, unless you want to clean and wash everything.
I made a case that fits the playfield like a glove and it was used in restoring my fast draw. I now use it to restore my surf champ.
You can do everything by hand , but an airbrush is a big help for painting big surfaces. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice, I was thinking of making a similar fixture for bare playfield transport & storage. The backside is so delicate that it only makes sense.

1 month later
#6290 9 months ago
Quoted from vid1900:

If it's a hidden area, then Fiberglass Resin works great, super strong

I need to try the fiberglass resin.

2 months later
#6446 7 months ago
Quoted from ktownhero:

I don't know why they put them both in Red bottles, makes it too easy for the unfamiliar to get the wrong one. How hard is it for them to just have the user-friendly version be in a bright blue tube? Lol

They used to, back in the day when we had an auto parts store..

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