(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

By vid1900

11 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 8,789 posts
  • 803 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by Jagrmaister
  • Topic is favorited by 1,972 Pinsiders
  • Topic is sticky in its sub-forum

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

20240419_165132 (resized).jpg
20240415_125716 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240404_002101962 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240404_002010342 (resized).jpg
THUMP BUMP HOLE ENLARGE1 (resized).JPG
THUMP BUMP HOLE ENLARGE2 (resized).JPG
IMG_3225 (resized).JPG
IMG_3141 2 (resized).JPG
image (resized).jpg
Pinside_forum_1762038_386370 (resized).jpg
IMG_3141 (resized).JPG
PXL_20240304_203555066 (resized).jpg
20240301_160448 (resized).jpg
20240301_131123 (resized).jpg
IMG_2646 (resized).jpeg
IMG_3299 (resized).jpeg

Topic index (key posts)

143 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #7 Playfield damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #8 Insert damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #34 How to sand your new inserts flat. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #35 Cleaning old glue out of the insert holes. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider ckcsm.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#2417 8 years ago
Quoted from bobnatlanta:

So, what I've learned is that this compressor takes about ten minutes to start putting out moisture in it's current environment.

As your compressor runs longer it builds up more heat and the air it's making is hoter; this lends itself to higher moisture content in the air line. I would make sure the compressor is as cool as possible, put a high speed fan to help cool it off while its running. Also you should run your airline verticle as much as possilbe from the compressor source, as the air cools down the moisture will run back to the air compressor.
I work with water based paints, we use refrigerated driers, coalising filters, and dryer towers to get our air under 1% humidity at the paint gun, with solvent you can go higher but it will impact the results if it's too high.

-1
#2422 8 years ago

Looks like fish eyes, this is a surface contamination problem. There is a product to use called "fisheye elimator". I'm not sure who's paint booth you are using, but I would ask them prior to using it as this may cause future painting to use it also as this stuff is like spraying airborn silicone.

Are the "air bubbles in the same area as when you clear coated prior?

Quoted from MinnPin:

Hi All,
I am a bit at wit's end with my clear-coating procedure. I clearcoated last season, too late in the year (too cold) and ended up with bubbles in my "final" coat of clear. So, when I finally got the chance to get back into it this summer, I sanded out all the bubbles and gave it another go. Again, bubbles.
A couple weeks ago, I posted my dilemma in here and Vid as well as some others said I was shaking the clear and leaving too many bubbles in it when I mixed it up. I thought I was letting it settle enough, but that made good sense.
I sanded the playfield down again -- all bubbles out, all little divots filled. Hands down the best sanding job I have done thus far (practice makes perfect, right?). I sanded all the filled spots and got everything nice and level.
I decided to start fresh, with some new equipment -- new HF HVLP gun and stand to make mixing easier, new pressure gauge and adjuster, new water/oil filter at the gun. I mixed my clear, very deliberately stirred the mix and got all bubbles out and then let it sit for about fifteen minutes. Gave the PF one more naptha treatment and then slowly and evenly with the pressure at the gun set between 40 and 50, laid down a nice layer of clear. BAM -- the same damn bubbles across my entire PF again.
I am doing EVERYTHING by the book as laid out in here, all of my equipment is the suggested equipment, I have two oil/water filters - one at the compressor, one at the gun, I am using the JC660 clearcoat and it's matching hardener as recommended. I am in a paintbooth - there is no wind and there are no foreign contaminates.
WHAT IN GOD'S NAME AM I DOING WRONG? I am, once again running out of days in which to do this before cold weather, I am getting very sick of sanding this over and over and over, and I just end up with the same results. Here are some closeup pictures of the bubbles which cover my entire PF.
Thanks in advance for everyone's time and assistance!

Bubbles_01_09-27-2015.pngBubbles_04_09-27-2015.pngBubbles_02_09-27-2015.png

9 months later
#3346 7 years ago
Quoted from grandy:

If you're saying you bought the airbrush used, it is likely clogged to some extent. That could be the problem.

Try spraying thinner or solvent only; see if that works first

1 year later
#5801 5 years ago
Quoted from phototamer:

Would the clear withstand the ball pounding , or should I cover the drop card faces with mylar ?

I definitely would use mylar, most clear coats require an adhesion promoter over plastics - too much effort & mylar is much quicker and will hold up fine.

#5802 5 years ago
Quoted from Strummy:

Any thoughts on this product?

A 2K clear is definitely a better choice as it mixed with a chemical hardner to more durable; the only question would be what are you using it on? The spray head on an aerosal limits the spray pattern which would make it tought to spray larger surfaces.

There is a pot life once it's catalized, you can increase the pot life my putting the container in a refrigerator - much lower temp.

The only other advise is to make sure you order the charcoal respirator with it as you don't want to breath the vapors form this.

#5807 5 years ago
Quoted from Strummy:

I would use it to repair the chip on post 5753. My plan would be to spray some into a cup and then use an eye dropper to fill the chip.

I would say it would work fine to fill that chip/divot; it will take a few applications to be flat. Also even though you are just using an eye dropper I would still use a respoirator as the fumes from the hardner (isocyanate) is not good to breath.

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 27.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
From: $ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
 
$ 179.00
From: $ 170.00
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 18.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 10.00
$ 22.00
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
arcade-cabinets.com
 
3,000 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Walnut Creek, CA
From: $ 10.00
Electronics
Third Coast Pinball
 
$ 17.00
Cabinet - Decals
Nordic Pinball Supply
 
$ 12.95
$ 18.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
$ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
 
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
 

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider ckcsm.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration?tu=ckcsm and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.