(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

By vid1900

11 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

143 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #7 Playfield damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #8 Insert damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #34 How to sand your new inserts flat. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #35 Cleaning old glue out of the insert holes. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)


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#5986 5 years ago

vid1900 Quick question.

I need to repair inserts and patch some holes/gouges. I was under the impression that I would have to do that before a light clear coat, but I am unsure after reading your guide.

Are these in the right order?

1. Remove Mylar
2. Magic eraser/remove dirt from playfield
3. Glue and level inserts
4. Repair holes
5. Light clear coat
6. Paint repairs
7. Final clear

1 week later
#6011 5 years ago

I’m working on a flight 2000 playfield that has some touch ups that were previously done in divots. I also have a lot of holes and gouges from posts being tightened too much.
My question is should I Bondo all of these? If I leave the depressions, repaint the touch ups, and clear the playfield, will there be any ill effect?

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#6014 5 years ago

I cleaned my playfield with magic eraser and 99%alcohol. I’m pretty happy with the result.
It did leave a film in areas. I tried wiping it up before it dried and I tried naphtha with little effect. It does look great when wet with naphtha, but i would like to remove it if possible. Any suggestions?

You can see it a little in the orange and black

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#6024 5 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Maybe try a little alcohol on a cheese cloth and see if it can grab it.

Thanks again! I was able to remove all the magic eraser/alcohol haze by rubbing the playfield with alcohol, then using a clean cloth to “buff” the area before the alcohol dried. It looks great now.

Time to reinstall the inserts

8 months later
#6677 4 years ago

I have a question about color matching. I read in this thread previously that if you put naphtha on the touchup, it will simulate a more accurate representation of the color you end up with after clear coat.
The touch ups I have done look to be a little off color when dried on the original playfield, however with a little naphtha, they can’t be seen at all.
Should I try to make the dried color a closer match, or will it most likely look fine after clear is applied?
Thanks!

#6678 4 years ago

This is after alcohol and magic eraser.
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#6680 4 years ago
Quoted from Tommy-dog:

The idea with naphtha is that it wets the playfield and give it a gloss, just like how it looks when it is clear coated. If you are happy on what it looks like when wet with naphtha then your ready to clear coat it.

That’s what I was assuming. I just wanted to double check. The difference is dramatic between dry and naphtha. I didn’t want to clear if the colors end up looking like they do dry.

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