(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

By vid1900

7 years ago

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Topic index (key posts)

142 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #7 Playfield damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

Post #8 Insert damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

Post #34 How to sand your new inserts flat. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

Post #35 Cleaning old glue out of the insert holes. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

Post #38 Prime the insert with 3M Plastic Primer before gluing. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

Post #60 Repairing Insert Ghosting - fill, clean, remove bubbles, cover. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

Post #61 Repairing Insert Ghosting - clamp overnight. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

Post #76 Source for needles - https://www.dispensinglink.com/needles.html Posted by rancegt (7 years ago)

Post #84 Air brush information. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

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#637 6 years ago

Great thread, so good I bought a machine to practice on, a Bally Eight Ball. It has nice simple colours for the most part. Somebody decided to hand paint some poor looking patches around the racked balls near the bottom and add some mylar. The mylar is now coming up and has lots of paint attached to it.


Also, somebody decided to pull up the mylar against the slingshot so the paint could get worn off for some reason. I have a couple of questions for approaching this.


I guess I need a fairly big decal across the balls. Should I cut it into smaller pieces to make them manageable?
Do I sand everything off in that area and level the inserts with clear (all the inserts are nice and even with the playfield but are cupped)?
How do I do the sanding across the racked balls area to stop precisely on the narrow bare wood strip around the balls?
This machine has a nice black trench dug in through the clear coat at the top area. I think you addressed this earlier but I cannot find it now.


Again, enjoying the thread immensely.

#640 6 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Scan the entire area first (or see if someone here can give you a clean scan.

Using a SHARP vertical chisel (not at an angle like a chisel is normally used), the old paint will scrape right off the insert faces.

Don't sand down the inserts, glue them back level with the playfield. Then fill them with auto clear to un-cup them.
You will do just a minimal amount of sanding with 400 grit to give the new paint some tooth. Do not sand back down to bare wood.

Scanning is next on my list, just waiting for an eBay purchase to arrive. Once I sand everything a bit, then I need to clear. Does clear have to be end cleanly at the edge of the repair area or can it feather in beyond the repair area? I am used to working on cars and wet sanding things. If I have to repair a chunk in the wood, is there a particular brand of body filler you prefer?

What if the chunk is deep like this where the saucer has been plopping the ball for years. Fill with body filler, clear then decal or just paint this by hand? Again can I clear the local area only or will I have to clear everything? The rest of the playfield is quite nice and in I would like to leave it alone if possible.


#646 6 years ago


Maybe I missed it but let's say I strip a playfield down with the intention of clearing it. What do I have to do to decontaminate it so the clear is not messed up. Playfields will have years waxes, and other chemicals on them. I saw you mention acetone to remove wax. Will the acetone do a good job without risk to the existing paint?

Assuming I now have a clean surface, I should rough up everything with 220 grit then lay clear on that? I have to say that I will have a lump in my throat the first time I try it.

#659 6 years ago

My Eight Ball repair might take a different path for now. I found someone who had digitally repaired all the artwork and found a company who printed it onto a sanded down original playfield. This playfield is missing it's inserts so that would be job one. Since there is a lot of bare wood (mostly at the top of the field on Eight Ball), is there any special prep to be done before laying clear down? The reason I ask is that unlike printed areas, the wood fibers will stand up and require sanding down. This means waiting a long time between coats I assume? How did the factory do this?

1 month later
#704 5 years ago

What kind of safety equipment are people using for spraying clear? The local body supply shop sold me a dual cartridge mask but the clear definitely says to use a positive pressure supplied air system. I watched some YouTube videos where a guy was spraying with just a dust mask which seemed crazy.

#707 5 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Isocyanate does not have a smell, so the clear manufacturer puts that hideous smell into the formula so you CAN'T miss a leak in your mask.
If you start doing clear all the time, a pressure air system would be a worthwhile investment in your longevity.

Yeah, I've emailed that guy to take down those videos, but he keeps them around.
Don't even think of using a dust mask for spraying, or sanding the lead based cabinet paint.

Hope his lungs hold up.

For fun I decided to try out my new HVLP gun using something more safe, water based Varathane. I had a heck of a time setting the gun up? I thinned the stuff down quite a bit with water but I found it hard to check the spray pattern since it was so clear. I really am not ready to spray a playfield that is for sure. Any tips on pressures and settings?

#708 5 years ago

I keep forgetting, what type of paint do people spray cabinets with?

#722 5 years ago
Quoted from MinnPin:

So, I will be clearing my PF soon...and this conversation is the first I have heard of needing expensive gear just to protect myself from the clear.
Granted, it is presumable that hazardous clear coating may require protection, I am just surprised I have never noticed it being talked about before. So, even if I am completely outside, in my driveway performing this task, I need a mask and a bunch of cartridges to the tune of $100 or more? Seriously?

Definitely do not underestimate the danger. The effects can be time delayed by hours and guy in another thread said he passed out the next morning. ~20% of the population are susceptible and there is only one way to find out if you are in that group.

I discovered that the consumer aimed products are safe because the isocyanates are prepolymerized and do not wind up in the air even when you spray it, not to say you don't still need a good mask. The catalyzed stuff for cars is curing during spraying and the airborne stuff is nasty.

#724 5 years ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

Definitely do not underestimate the danger. The effects can be time delayed by hours and guy in another thread said he passed out the next morning. ~20% of the population are susceptible and there is only one way to find out if you are in that group.
I discovered that the consumer aimed products are safe because the isocyanates are prepolymerized and do not wind up in the air even when you spray it, not to say you don't still need a good mask. The catalyzed stuff for cars is curing during spraying and the airborne stuff is nasty.

Just to clarify what I wrote, of course it gets in the air when you spray it, but the polymers in the consumer stuff is mostly cured and therefore less toxic. The solvent it is floating in boils away and gets in the air but is safer than the automotive stuff whose polymers are still curing as you spray it. Cyanide should be respected. Some people are pretty casual about it for some reason.

1 month later
#801 5 years ago

The other problem with masks is people don't really do the fit checks properly. Placing your hands over the cartridges and inhaling should mean you get no air, just vacuum. Any leaking air means you are breathing fumes. If you can smell the chemicals while using it, you are way over the safe limit. Human noses are not good enough as a safety measure in this case.

2 months later
#1106 5 years ago
Quoted from fattdirk:

So I have a craftsman air compressor that is probably 10 years or older. It's a 5HP with a 25 gallon tank. The specs on the side of the motor say 11 CFMs at 40 psi. The HVLP gun from harbor freight says it requires 6.0 CFM at 40 psi. Am I going to be ok with my compressor even though the tank is less than 30 gallons?

You have plenty of compressor and nobody can spray at 100% duty cycle for more than a few minutes anyway. You might use the equivalent of 4-5 CFM averaged out over many minutes of use. You have line and regulator losses and things not included in that 11 CFM but either way, that is going to work fine.

1 month later
#1205 5 years ago

I am have an Eight Ball playfield. Where the racked balls are someone had done poor touch ups by hand and then covered it all with Mylar. When I got it the Mylar was lifting. To my surprise when I started pulling up the mylar, it also pulled the original clear coat with it, and a lot of the original paint too. That was a surprise to me since outside of this area the playfield looks quite good. Is this normal?

1 month later
#1374 5 years ago

I was wondering about adhesion of 2pac to decals. I have read the whole thread and I understand the purpose of 2pac underneath and on top of the decal. Is this true once you scale the decal's size up? Some people have been talking about some pretty large decals. You clear, then sand, then apply the decal, then more clear. You cannot sand the decal itself so the clear on top is laying on a shiny smooth plastic. Wouldn't this cause trouble in the case of a large decal?

#1377 5 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

The decal is not shiny (at least not waterslide decals), and are made to be cleared over.
Large decals are usually cut up into manageable sections.

Okay, that and its obviously well proven to work.

Different question, I have been thinking of getting a playfield printed on a flat bed printer. I know its been tried and I heard of an issue with clearing it where the clear ate the UV cured ink. Has anyone on this thread done this? I know Vid mentioned barely spraying decals initially to prevent eating them. I wonder if that approach will work for a printed playfield. I am a bit surprised that such clear coat being so active does not attack the Creatix paints at all.


#1379 5 years ago

I had a test print of my artwork done on a high quality paper but on the same flatbed printer. I am waiting for a test print being done on a wooden panel I made up. Mostly I want to be able to assess colours but it gives me a whole piece to practice clearing on.

Vid in all your posts here, I do not recall what you said you use for breathing protection when you do clear, do you use a air supply system?

2 weeks later
#1480 5 years ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

Vid, can you use a clothes iron to heat the topside of an insert when removing mylar?
Of course, I'd put a cloth down between the mylar and iron - I'm having trouble with the mylar lifting the paint from the plastic inserts, otherwise, it is coming up fine with just me gently pulling it off - would this help, or is it possible that the insert decals are just too far gone and brittle??

If you know anyone who flies RC planes they will often have a wing covering iron. I have this one http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHZ17&P=ML Variable temperature and comes with a fabric sock for the shoe to do what you want.

#1484 5 years ago
Quoted from MinnPin:

Really don't think it's an HE furnace though. Nothing vents out the side of the house. But as I mentioned the main basement room, which the furnace is in, was really filled with the odor from the clear, and that hadn't happened previous times that I cleared. I think it took the vapor right out of the room and just threw it into the duct system.

I would also vote for stack effect sucking air through the many crevices around doors and don't overlook the wall sills not being sealed to the concrete foundation or even a lack of vapour barrier. There are many possibilities.

2 weeks later
#1574 5 years ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

You can order the Molotow markers from Curry's in Toronto.
I found a place in Canada where it seems you can order Naphtha: http://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/cspages/ptivmp09-04137-40.php

Sherwin Williams has Naptha, they call it VAPM Naptha (Varnish and Paint Makers). I bought a 4Litre jug in Ottawa.

<Oops, beat me to it.>

2 weeks later
#1641 5 years ago
Quoted from PhilGreg:

I'm not sure I agree with that statement, or maybe I'm doing something wrong, or maybe some colors dry darker and not others. The bottom two spots are the same mix - left one is dry, right one is wet. This is Createx paint.

Man, color matching is hard.

IMG_20141215_194305750.jpg 26 KB

My experience is the same, definitely dries darker than what I mixed as a liquid. I am very new to colour matching so I have been trying to make samples and dry them as I go to see the real colour.

2 weeks later
#1701 5 years ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

No, no I'm applying directly to the color on the playfield that I'm matching, I wouldn't post a comment about the paint drying darker than mixed unless I had absolute proof from playfield results. It DOES dry darker. Just a heads up......

In my case it dried darker when applied to a clear piece of plastic. On white I got the same result.

3 weeks later
#1761 5 years ago
Quoted from pinball_erie:

Thanks Vid, its been a lot of work !!

Someone in Pennsylvania is a Toronto fan? What game did you start with? Are you going to be making a backglass as well?

#1771 5 years ago
Quoted from swanng:

So be it. Here are a few of the many I took.

I can see the rather obvious touch ups but what is the source of the skinny little streaks everywhere, were they not there previously?

1 month later
#1857 5 years ago
Quoted from wspy:

Not really in love with CA glues but since I wasn't able to find PPG Shop Line JC661 in my area, I was looking for a plan B. Maybe I should look for an alternate clear instead...? (just to be clear, this would be to fix a ghosted insert)

Cyanoacrylate glues tend to fog clear plastics. It will go on just fine and just as it cures everything near it will haze.

#1860 5 years ago
Quoted from wspy:

Good to know. I see you're from Canada - Which product are you using?

I was starting with an Eight Ball playfield that the previous owner had taken all the inserts out of for some reason. I bought new ones and roughened all of them on the perimeter and added a groove around periphery for the adhesive to key into. To bond them in place I used a modeling 2 part epoxy. TowerHobbies http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPT44&P=ML

2 months later
#2043 4 years ago
Quoted from Radius118:

So I have next to zero experience with photoshop, etc..
My question is, when you guys are printing color decals on your color laser printers, how do you get the colors to match? Even though you should have the right color from your scan, that doesn't mean your printer will print that exact color. How is that accomplished?
I am assuming part of this is dealing with printing on either clear or white decal paper.
I guess part of my reason for asking this question is that it seems like most of the time when you buy a pre-printed decal, the colors are off.
Also, after applying your B&W or color printed decals, how are you wiping down the playfield to get any oils, etc, from your hands off the playfield prior to clearing?

You can save some time by printing out colour swatches. Make them big enough to use like 1"x1". I fold up the sheet or cut out samples and hold them next to the colours I want to match. This only gets you so far as the decal white is different than the white of the paper you print on. Also if you are doing a clear decal, you have whatever white paint under it to work with. If printing on clear, I paint a piece of board stock with my white paint, print my colour swatches on a clear sheet of plastic (no need to waste an actual decal), lay the plastic onto the white painted board and compare against the thing you are trying to match.

2 weeks later
#2080 4 years ago

I know I have seen the answer elsewhere in the thread but I cannot find it. I just had a playfield cleared by a local collision shop. How long do I need to wait before sanding and buffing like was done on page 27 of this thread?

2 months later
#2272 4 years ago

Mylar lifting.

I am sure it is the thread somewhere but I cannot find it. I have several arrow inserts than seem sunken in the PF and the mylar (that is in great shape generally) has lifted off. You can flex it up and down where it hovers over the arrows. There is no tackiness left at all. The mylar is attached fine to the whole PF. So unlike a ghosted insert, what can I do to re-adhere the mylar?

#2274 4 years ago

I was wondering if something could be injected to re-wet the mylar and remove the haze like is done with the ghosting earlier in the thread.

3 weeks later
#2369 4 years ago

Naptha cleanup up of Novus 2 takes quite a bit of work. Do a first pass, change rags before doing a second pass. Getting it all off will take a bit of effort.

2 weeks later
#2435 4 years ago
Quoted from Zampinator:

How about a scratch in just the clear coat on a new pin? How would you repair that?

Same as on a car, as long as it is only in the clear layer, wet sand it out. I would start at 1000 grit. Go up through to 2000-2500. Use a compound to remove the haze and done.

#2444 4 years ago
Quoted from investingdad:

So on a brand new Stern ST where I have light ball trails on the outlanes and gentle rubbing with a cotton stock doesn't 100 % remove them, what cleaning agent should I use to remove them and do I then need to put down any wax after cleaning?

If it is wear in the clear, then nothing can clean it out. Do these marks catch your finger nail? If it is indeed a deposit of some sort then a mild abrasive like Novus 2 will take it off. Anything abrasive will haze the clear slightly so keep the rubbed area as small as possible.

3 weeks later
#2535 4 years ago
Quoted from Fred736:

This is the little paint booth i built in my garage. Footprint is 6' x 8'.
The exhaust duct stretches out about 10' beyond the garage door into the driveway.
I run my air thru this condensing coil to remove all moisture. The coil is immersed in the blue drum full of cold water.
There is a drain valve that you can't see at the bottom of the coil.
Now if I could just have the skill to shoot a nice even coat of clear....

And after you're done you have a still.

4 weeks later
#2623 4 years ago

Way back in the chip filling section, how do you spread filler and squeegee it off and not mess up the surrounding artwork. I plan to put a decal over the missing artwork but it needs to be level. This is the only damaged area so I am not planning to clear it. I will be putting Mylar over the repair since the rest of the Playfield has original Mylar.


#2628 4 years ago

I am going to ask a dumb question but bear with me. If I want to drip liquid clear into a depression (see 4 posts up) is liquid clear still unsafe indoors to use? I would not be spraying, just using an eye dropper.

3 months later
#2941 4 years ago

Not sure about Game Plan but Bally fired a lot of long staples in despite having lots of predrilled screw holes. So if it is stuck it can be staples or just glued down to the clear.

#2942 4 years ago
2 months later
#3208 3 years ago

Not to deny 2PAC's benefits, I am wondering though what poly was used. They are not all the same. The traditional oil based stuff nowadays is sold as turning amber, I guess some people want that when used on wood. I have tried the outdoor UV protected stuff and it does go on very clear. They sell it as a product that resists yellowing which of course is a relative thing. In Home Depot in Canada there is oil based, and water based with water based coming in an indoor type and an outdoor UV resistant type.

1 month later
#3378 3 years ago

The first time I tried frisket (on a cabinet) it pulled off a whole layer on me. Try sticking frisket down over and over and let it do the work. In my case it worked great, completely removed the offending layer.

3 months later
#3681 3 years ago

I don't know what is special with the Treasure Cove kit but I just use a cordless drill with a headlight kit foam pad and play with various compounds. I have done it three different way and wound up with pretty similar good results. I have used boat hull compound which is a 3M product it did a pretty good job, the grit progressively breaks down as you go so it covers the range of 2-3 other normal compounds. I also tried Novus 3 as my starting point but found it was not quite aggressive enough.

3 weeks later
#3766 3 years ago
Quoted from PersonX99:

I have a pf I am just about ready to clearcoat for the first time. I have repainted most of it. I was thinking about using the SprayMax 2PAC.
I live in the NE so it is 40-50s outside. My garage can be heated. I plan to level the pf in the cab (its an EM) and spray it while still in the cab (sealing everything else off, of course).
My question is...could I spray the clear while I am outside (in the cold) and then immediately move it into the heated garage to cure between coats? Would I get the temperature related issues if I did this?
My reason for spraying outside is seems easier than building a spray booth in the garage, but I am not sure if the temporary exposure to coolers temps while spraying will create problems. Once it is in the garage, it will be in a more temperature controlled environment while it cures.

A lot of the flow out occurs as your spray lands. The aerosolized clear will cool very rapidly if it is sprayed through cold air. It will not matter that the gun is warm and that the PF is warm. I don't think you will like the result.

2 weeks later
#3821 3 years ago
Quoted from Fred736:

Not sure what you're talking about....


If you don't understand what you're looking at, PM me. I'll be happy to explain.
Happy Holidays to you as well.

The before and after photos look great. I assume you airbrushed the various numbers and letters, did you let them dry then pull the stencil or spray and pull right away? Curious what give the best result.

1 month later
#3922 3 years ago

Only if the glass will be touching the thing your scanning. The scanner has a tiny focal length. Pull the object away from the glass and the image becomes very fuzzy quickly.

#3937 3 years ago

Not to sidetrack the restoration thread too far (although this is certainly relevant). For a backglass you need to stitch good quality photos together and work out the effective dot pitch you wind up with. Printing should be no worse than 300 dpi, so do your work at 400 dpi or better and downsample at the end if you need to. You can use almost any camera if the lighting is good and most importantly you undo the lens distortion. There are many programs out there that can help. iPhones have very distorted images (take an image of graph paper then pull it in to PhotoShop and you will see). Undistort the images then stitch those together you can do a very nice job.

Even the HP scanners listed above are not perfect, they have scaling issues in them particularly at the edges of the scan. If you can only use the middle 75% of the scans you are better off which requires more overlap. I spend a good several hours correcting the poor job PhotoShop does, it is only meant to give good results for photos, it does not do better than several pixels which can greatly misalign things like key lines.

6 months later
#4673 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

When I removed mine, I placed a book (or at least part of it) under the rail, and placed a screwdriver between the book and the rail to push up on the rail. I slowly worked my way up little by little from both sides. The thicker the book, the better.

On mine, I removed the few screws that were there and then from the side flexed the whole side rail outward. This self-levers the rail up a bit on the staples. The lets you get under the rail without crushing its square edge. The rails are also partly stuck down from having been pressed down onto the original clear layer, but it just pops free.

2 months later
#4949 2 years ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Good god, if *you're* saying it's hard to restore...
My first idea was to use shoot clear, waterslide decals to restore the line art, shoot clear over those, then do paint to fill in missing areas. I think I would just accept "close enough" rather than drive myself around the bend with it. Had initially thought of cutting out the art over the inserts altogether, but that seems like an invitation to madness, the more I think on it.

You can get decals for the customers, http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CA-50C

2 months later
#5398 2 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

While this is somewhat outside of play fields, how does one go about restoring brushed metal parts, such as coin doors? To my knowledge, sanding and buffing will just produce a mirror: the brush strokes will disappear. Is there a way to maintain or recreate them?

We might want to start a metal working restore thread and link to it here. My experiments with this broke down to attempting to get a mirror look and not being quite happy with it. Hammered door dents out, door looked awesome but not enough of a mirror. So I tried various things and settled on 100 grit (sounds rough I know) stroked in very straight lines to get the depth of cut I wanted. Followed that with 600 grit wet (again straight), to knock down the 100 grit texture. Final result was perfect with a slightly finer brush finish than original but much nicer looking. Total 100 and 600 grit time was maybe 10 minutes versus hours of making the mirror finish.

1 month later
#5479 2 years ago

I use this scanner with Win10, just install the 64 bit Vista driver. You get really simplistic controls though which is fine for me. It takes a few tries the first time, but you trigger the scan from the device and it pops up an import window. You have to do whole page scans but you can set resolution.

3 weeks later
#5559 2 years ago

Are you powering the scanner when you plug it in or just inserting the USB. The scanner needs to be on. What OS are you using? I had problems on a Win7 laptop having it recognize it and it turned out the USB ports on the right side were the problem but the left side worked.

#5561 2 years ago

Not sure what you mean, USB 3 is expressly intended to be backwardly compatible with USB 2, you can plug devices into whatever you want if it fits. USB C is different though. In my case it would not work in my USB 2 ports, it would only work in the USB 3 port even thought the scanner is USB 2.

#5564 2 years ago

When you power yours up, does it turn on the light and wiggle the scan bar a couple of times? That is what mine does. Also in Win10 I have no way to trigger a scan in the computer. I trigger it from the scanner and the first time it is connected it takes a good solid minute, long enough to convince me it is broken. Subsequent scans in that session start within seconds.

1 month later
#5708 1 year ago

How many hours of cure time did it have before you started populating it? Seems strange it is so soft.

1 month later
#5815 1 year ago
Quoted from McSquid:

Anyone have any tips for color matching with waterslide decals when you don't have a scan of your exact PF? I've been able to match the whites on my aged Bally playboy pretty well, but I'm struggling with the blue. It seems like no matter what I print it's just... Off. I'm not trying to get it perfect, just close enough that it's not obviously a different color from the blue 3 inches away.

Are you printing the blue? CMYK printing is pretty narrow in the range of blues you can achieve. The tend towards purple no matter what you try.

6 months later
#6269 1 year ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Vid... on a Fireball ll... how would you go about making this area flush with the playfield. The clear plastic is recessed a little bit. Would it be the same as redoing recessed inserts? Thanks
[quoted image]

That appears to be screwed down not glued. Remove it and shim to desired height.

#6271 1 year ago

It would depend on the amount you are shimming. The flat style toothpicks might be good, they can be sanded to whatever thickness.

2 months later
#6458 1 year ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

What could cause and how to fix peeling 2PAC?
Surface was prepped and cleaned as this guide instructs.
Temp of pf and 2pac were equal at approx 70F
No noticable problems occurred during initial sanding after about 4 days of cure, only upon removing frisket from first airbrush touch ups did the clear begin to come off in sheets.
Thoughts on remedy, sand down and just start over?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Was the original surface sanded to provide tooth?

1 month later
#6556 11 months ago
Quoted from PinballBillinFL:

I've printed some of the original scans on paper using my laser printer just to check for sizing, and found that they were all a bit smaller than they should be. I just took one scan, zoomed in, and using GIMP measured the length of a straight black bar to be 7.44 cm. Using a rule, measured the actual line on the playfield to be 7.4 cm. zoomed in to 400x there's a bit of ambiguity in my scan masurements depending on which pixels I uses, so I believe the scan is indeed exact, and printing to paper is not. Makes me feel better.
So I'm guessing that if I go the vinyl cutter route, I can achieve enough accuracy to do do most of my masking. Damn, gotta buy another toy! LOL

I spend quite a bit of time figuring out which settings I need to set to get something to scale when printed. Lots of programs scale to fit when you don't think they are. Always use a chunk of image that is well within your page size while figuring it out.

5 months later
#6806 5 months ago

The 2K risk is not really a cancer problem, it is an acute poisoning problem. I would be surprised if anyone has managed to get enough low doses without being sick that they actually got cancer from it. Regular spray paints won't poison you as quickly so you can get doses over time and some of the chemicals definitely cause cancer.

2 weeks later
#6810 4 months ago
Quoted from pincity:

Clay’s guide mentions that water thin super glue can be built up for this purpose. Has anyone used this approach to fill a small divot or should I be looking into using some other product like qwikwood?

Are you planning to put some colour on top of the patch? I would be reluctant to use super glue, it won't build up and remain clear easily. If you are top coating it with a colour then epoxy wood filler would work well.

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