Bobby Orr's Power Play
Bally, 1978
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Bally, 1991
Space Jam
Sega, 1996You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider asay.
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So I pulled the mylar off off my playfield. Probably shouldn't have done it, because after reading this I'm not sure I want to clear coat it myself. Should have left it alone...meh, hindsight is 20/20.
Anyway, should I see if an autobody shop can spray it for me? If not, is new mylar the next best option?
Quoted from thedefog:Is there any planking of the wood visible after pulling it off, and did you loose any paint? Hope it went well.
It came up well using the freeze method. Very limited paint lifting around inserts.
I found this thread that links to a 2 part Urethane clear coat that comes in a can:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/2-part-urethane-clearcoat-aerosol
Should I give that stuff a shot?
Quoted from CraigC:did you remove the mylar glue? you will need to do that before clearing or applying new mylar.
use the flour and alcohol trick. it really is the cat's ass. I took the mylar off my non DP Funhouse and it worked great with no issues.
-c
Not yet, I'm definitely going to give the flour a shot though.
Quoted from radium:I've used that 2-part spray clear. To give you an idea of how great it is, I'm setting up a spray booth in my garage and buying a 60-gallon compressor.
Slow down and do some homework before you try anything.
Just curious, what issues did you have with it?
Quoted from radium:Slow down and do some homework before you try anything.
for whatever reason I didn't think clear coating was a necessity after removing the mylar..then I read some more and my world fell apart
Do I need to remove everything from the bottom of the playfield before applying flour? I imagine in can get kinda messy...
Quoted from vid1900:Tape off your holes and slots.
Don't get flour into your star rollovers!
Ok thanks. I also read on another thread here that you don't necessarily have to clear coat or re-apply mylar after you pull it if the machine is HUO/low use. Bad idea?
Quoted from Lonzo:And I am pretty sure that someone has said that before so if he would have read the thread he would have known that.
Well I read all Vid's posts in the thread and he hadn't responded to the discussion about spraymax, which is why I missed it. I did a search for my other 2 questions and no one else asked them. I don't think I was disrespectful/off topic by asking about mylar, alternative clearcoat types, or whether everything needs to be stripped for flouring....but I guess I'll make a new thread for every little question I have in the future 
So after I pulled the mylar glue up, a few inserts got really cloudy. If I wet them with cleaner or alcohol, the cloudiness goes away, but once it dries it comes right back. Is there a solution to this besides replacing the insert?
Vid..you mention you do some light sanding so the clear sticks better. It's OK to use really fine sandpaper directly on the playfield paint? I feel like I'm going to damage it.
Quoted from UvulaBob:I got some of the 2PAC on my garage floor, and I'm not sure if my landlord will take kindly to it when we move out. Is there an easy way to remove it?
Quoted from vid1900:The next chemical you need is Lacquer Thinner. This is nasty stuff that dissolves many finishes. We use it to clean our spray guns, eye droppers, measuring cups, spills. DON'T use Lacquer Thinner to clean your playfield. Lacquer Thinner is a mega carcinogen, so again, chem mask needed during use.
Quoted from vid1900:http://www.tcpglobal.com/KUS-CMF1230.html#.U-aPOWMa1dg
Lots of different sizes available
I got some of this stuff, and it's pulling the original paint off my playfield like crazy - even if it's only been down for a few minutes.
Is a brush and a steady hand the better option at this point? I feel like whatever I lay down to mask is going to pull more paint than what I'm touching up.
Quoted from vid1900:Sounds like your old paint is not fully cured (too thick??), or did not adhere to the substrate.
Give all the details, paint brand, application method, substrate, grade of sandpaper to rough up substrate, heat cure or air dry......
I hadn't laid down any paint yet. I applied the frisket and messed up cutting it, so I pulled it up to try again and noticed that it was pulling paint up from the playfield. No touchups have ever been made, this is the paint under the factory mylar I'm talking about.
Thanks Vid.
Quoted from vid1900:Gotcha.
You need to shoot a thin layer of clear over old playfields so you can lock down the existing artwork - before you begin any touch ups.
Quoted from PhilGreg:That's why Vid's guide states that you should lay a thin coat of clear before you get started to lock the existing paint in.
That's my problem then! I was going to do some touchups, then cover the play field with mylar as opposed to clear - I guess I need to rethink that.
Quoted from vid1900:Replace Gottlieb slotted screws with Philips head ones - 100x faster to drive and no chance of slipout/scratching of the playfield.
Use the clutch on your screwgun so you don't overdrive screws.
Quoted from ledge:aint that the truth... slotted screws suck
I just use a nut driver on those. Even easier than Philips head, and no chance of stripping the screw.
Quoted from vid1900:Most Gotts just have plain standard screws top and bottom, no hex head option.
That's why I don't ever reinstall them.Gotts screws suck.jpg
That's horrible ...
I guess they started using these on System 3's?
513rZIOoxUL._SX342_.jpg
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