(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

By vid1900

11 years ago


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143 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #7 Playfield damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #8 Insert damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #34 How to sand your new inserts flat. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #35 Cleaning old glue out of the insert holes. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)


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#5642 6 years ago

Vid,
As promised, a couple pictures of my Nine Ball Playfield.

First picture should show the only area with mylar -- around/under the pop bumper. Mylar looks good with no bubbling, lifting, etc. Artwork under the mylar looks rather intricate -- not something I'd want to ruin by trying to remove the mylar.

IMG_7001B (resized).JPGIMG_7001B (resized).JPG

Second picture should give some idea of the cupping exhibited by the inserts. I had planned on giving the playfield a couple coats of clear to try and bring everything up to level.

IMG_7335 (resized).JPGIMG_7335 (resized).JPG

Would masking off the mylar and clearing the rest of the playfield be an acceptable approach in this situation?

Thanks in advance for your insight.

#5644 6 years ago

Thanks Vid.

I will try your suggestion -- luckily I picked up two of the same machine, but the other playfield has a lot more wear. I will experiment/practice on the more compromised playfield before moving to the better one.

#5654 6 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Heat is generally better on ancient Mylar; freezing better on the 90s stuff.
Sometimes I've used both after finding that the Mylar has been replaced at some point with aftermarket stuff.
Yes, make sure you replace it with new stuff after you clear coat.

Vid,
Wanted to post a follow up to my earlier inquiry.

Used heat on the practice playfield and things were going well. . .

IMG_7407 (resized).JPGIMG_7407 (resized).JPG

But then the process started going sideways and paint started coming up with the mylar. I was so distraught that I had to start painting (orange) the areas that had lifted. It is possible I had a little more heat than I should have.

IMG_7414 (resized).JPGIMG_7414 (resized).JPG

I tested compressed air/freezing on another area of the practice playfield (strangely enough it had mylar in front of the slingshots but the "good" playfield did not) and it seemed to work ok, so I took a deep breath and went that route.

IMG_7412 (resized).JPGIMG_7412 (resized).JPG

Mylar removed with minimal damage.

Just wanted to take a minute to thank you for your advice -- I will sleep easier at night with this step behind me.

#5659 6 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Quoted from TractorDoc:Would masking off the mylar and clearing the rest of the playfield be an acceptable approach in this situation?

The clear would peel at the seam where the clear meets the mylar.

Probably should let the expert speak, but this is the reply he gave to me.

8 months later
#6258 5 years ago

Vid --

A quick question about shank screws.
There is a mention of how to remove them at post #3130. A little bit thereafter there is some discussion about clear coating over them vs. removal, clearing, then reinstalling. Apologies if this has been asked in later posts, but what is your preferred approach to them?

It sounds like you may lean the removal/clear/reinstall direction but wanted to be sure. It would make sense that materials with different rates of expansion/contraction under the same clear could result in a crack or fracture. . . plastic inserts are cleared over after all but then again they are also glued to the wood playfield.

5J5A8617A (resized).jpg5J5A8617A (resized).jpg

Yes, I removed that filthy piece of mylar and yes, it was cold in the shop when I took the picture.

#6261 5 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Most of the time I pull them out.
That Paragon is busy enough that I'd pull them

Thanks Vid!

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