Bobby Orr's Power Play
Bally, 1978
Gilligan's Island
Bally, 1991
Space Jam
Sega, 1996You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider TinyBlackDog.
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Has anybody tried the Speedokote clear coats? These seem readily available and fairly inexpensive. The two in particular I’m considering are the SMR-1150:
https://www.speedokote.com/clear-coat-acrylic-urethane-smr-1150-1102-q-4-1-kit/
And the SMR-130:
https://www.speedokote.com/smr-130-speedo-line-clear-national-rule-gallon-kit/
Both are available on Amazon. Anybody have experience, thoughts, or warnings I’d love to hear them.
Some bozo who previously owned my Shadow decided to screw down some kind of protection over the sanctum and I’m left with 4 screw holes to repair (there are 2 more on the other side of the magnet). I’m going to ultimately clear coat the playfield and will be completely repainting this entire gray area (w/ frisket and waterslide decal). My question is what should I do with the screw holes? I was thinking they should be drilled a bit larger and filled with epoxy/JB Weld. Or should I just dome punch them and fill with paint?
2111D192-E160-46C7-8A32-11CBDE74B0B1 (resized).jpegI am going to be clearcoating my Shadow PF soon and have a couple of questions:
1. What quantity of clear do you typically mix for a clearing session? I’ll be using a purple Harbor Freight gun and plan a dusting coat followed by a light coat then a medium coat for the first day. Since it is my first time spraying clear I’m sure I’ll waste some but the Omni 161 was so $&%^# expensive that I’d like to minimize waste. My initial guesstimate is about 10 to 12 ounces.
2. Has anybody tried clearing wireforms with an HVLP gun and 2PAC? The brass coating on my Shadow wireforms is in decent shape and is cleaning up nicely with Nevr Dull wadding polish. I was thinking of a thorough Naptha wipe down and then hanging from a hook to spray. Am I nuts to be even thinking about this? Alternatives are to just wax them, or bust out my checkbook and get them brass plated but that is about $400 for the set from Chris Royalty.
Thanks.
Quoted from PinballAir:I would not clear the wireforms.
Just my opinion.
I think it will chip and make keeping them uniform in appearance will be difficult after that.
On the games i have restored, polished metal generally looks very good for several years depending on where your games are. (Enviroment)
Thanks. The chipping was my concern, too. I know that replated wireforms have a clear coat applied afterwards, which is why I thought about it in the first place. I don’t know what technique is used to apply it though.
I just removed mylar from my Shadow battlefield in hopes that this was an air bubble under the mylar, but it appears to be in the clear coat or surface of the insert itself.
Would it be possible to scrape off the existing clear on the insert, sand it, drip clear in to level, then clear the whole mini-playfield?
Alternatively - what about cutting out and replacing the insert? That feels like a tricky proposition since I’d have to touch up the black paint around the insert.
I’m considering a CPR replacement but they have some printing issues that make them less than ideal.
89776626-65F9-49B6-B273-DF4F7838E2F8 (resized).jpeg8E1A32AB-44A8-42F2-AC3A-FECBF604EB19 (resized).jpegI'm doing final prep of my Shadow playfield for clear coat and am ready to apply the Sanctum water slide decal. My Sanctum was in bad shape so I airbrushed the entire gray area using Apple Barrel Country Gray (a very close match). I bought some really thin (5µm) laser waterslide decals and tried applying one directly on top of the painted area. The decal is so thin that it is really difficult to work with and spread out, which is exacerbated by placing the decal directly onto a painted surface which has a bit of texture. I'm pretty sure this won't come out well and needs to be redone.
1) If so, should the playfield get a thin coat of 2PAC before trying to apply the water slide decal?
2) Should I use a thicker water slide decal? I went with the thinnest I could find based on something I read in this thread, but think I may have gone too thin.
3) If I do the above, I should probably use some Decal Set when applying the decal.
I obviously want to get this right the first time. I'm nervous enough about applying 2PAC but I'd hate to ruin all this work with a crappy decal job.
IMG_0272 (resized).jpegIMG_0408 (resized).jpegQuoted from PinballAir:I am not a decal guy but I would trim tighter around the lettering. Less unnecessary material
My goal was to minimize edges and try to hide them in the black borders. The ultra thin decal material made that really difficult since it didn’t slide around at all after removing the backing. I will be putting Mylar over the magnet area after assembly and was going to align the upper edge of the Mylar with the lower edge of the decal.
I’m probably overthinking all that. Wouldn’t be the first time 
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Walnut Creek, CA