(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

By vid1900

11 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

143 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #7 Playfield damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #8 Insert damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #34 How to sand your new inserts flat. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #35 Cleaning old glue out of the insert holes. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)


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#875 9 years ago

I've been working on my D&D machine for a couple months now after re-reading your thread, I'm a little unsure of my next step now. I pulled everything off the field front and back and proceeded to clean (simple green) the PF then took ME and alcohol to it and leveled all the inserts. I'm debating on using water slide or just painting the lettering and key lines back in. From what I'm reading now, I should shoot it in a light coat of clear either way and then start the repairs or should I paint the couple spots of burn thru and the launch track in the lane and then shoot a light coat of clear. I'm a little confused on this point. I was also wondering about spot repairs on the PF if I'm clearing the whole thing anyway. Like I said, I have one spot of burn thru and would like to just color match a spot and thin down some paint with some extender to clean it up and the shoot it. Your saying no brushes at all and mask everything?

I'm open to input and would love to hear suggestions. I have a really good airbrush and compressor so I'm willing to mask and go but it seem extreme for something I could match and have done in 20 seconds (did warhammer 40k for years so my painting ability is pretty damn good).

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#878 9 years ago

You ever get over in my neck of the woods Vid, you better check in. My liquor cabinet might need a little bullet proofing too.

1 month later
#1079 9 years ago
Quoted from MT45:

Vid... probably not but will this compressor work for clearcoat with Harbor Freight gun? 21 gallon, cast iron, fits in my car? And on sale $165 this week at HF.

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I have one sitting in my garage right now and it works fine. Make sure to get a filter kit when you pick it up and great some disposable in line water filters too. For some reason it collects a bunch of water. Test sprayed at 40 and found it needed a bit more so it's set for 50 and runs a bit more them I want it too so plan on extra water filters and either quick sprays of thin coats or compressor running while you spray. It hold 50 fine while spraying, no worries there

5 months later
#1787 9 years ago

Vid, I ment to ask a while back but like everything else in this hobby, it got sidelined then forgot. I use to use a product back in the day called "decal set" now I don't know exactly how it works but it seemed to partially desolve the clear on waterslide transfers. This has the effect of making the waterslide lay down. Would this be something worth using or too costic for existing plastic inserts?

#1789 9 years ago

Pretty close. Do you still need to clear first since you essentially welding the waterslide to the insert then or should one stear clear?

1 year later
#2930 8 years ago
Quoted from Tallon:

I've been working on my D&D machine for a couple months now after re-reading your thread, I'm a little unsure of my next step now. I pulled everything off the field front and back and proceeded to clean (simple green) the PF then took ME and alcohol to it and leveled all the inserts. I'm debating on using water slide or just painting the lettering and key lines back in. From what I'm reading now, I should shoot it in a light coat of clear either way and then start the repairs or should I paint the couple spots of burn thru and the launch track in the lane and then shoot a light coat of clear. I'm a little confused on this point. I was also wondering about spot repairs on the PF if I'm clearing the whole thing anyway. Like I said, I have one spot of burn thru and would like to just color match a spot and thin down some paint with some extender to clean it up and the shoot it. Your saying no brushes at all and mask everything?
I'm open to input and would love to hear suggestions. I have a really good airbrush and compressor so I'm willing to mask and go but it seem extreme for something I could match and have done in 20 seconds (did warhammer 40k for years so my painting ability is pretty damn good).
image-619.jpgimage.jpgimage-419.jpg

So I have done a little work since my post. I have also worked a couple other machines so D&D was back burnered a couple times. But.......since it just came back from clear, I figured I would post a couple pics.

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#2933 8 years ago
Quoted from Jtslade:

Holy Chit that's beautiful!!!

Thanks but I give all the credit to the CC guy (who asked I NOT send more business his way). I just got lucky with a few good color matches. Listen to vid, don't be afraid to experiment, and ask a ton of questions. I nearly drove my CC guy nuts but when he got it, I already had it scuffed and ready to shoot. he said all he had to do was wipe it down a shoot. Don't get me wrong, he did a ton but it was all booth time.

Yes, it looks like it was dipped in glass and its truly nicer in person. Waxing starts Tuesday but I don't have any real time to spend on assembly til sunday. Watch the my D&D restore thread. I reviving it as soon as I get going again.

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