(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

By vid1900

11 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

143 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #7 Playfield damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #8 Insert damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #34 How to sand your new inserts flat. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #35 Cleaning old glue out of the insert holes. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#1030 9 years ago

Vid - thanks for all this work. It's a huge help to me. I'm in the middle of a complete restore of my BOP. I've got her down to bare playfield, sanded smooth, and have color matched (using plastic chips and naptha) all colors.

ISSUE:
I've probably already airbrushed more than 15 hours of paint work BEFORE laying down any clear - oops ... Sprayed using my airbrush right on the bare (sanded) playfield. (I did all this work about 10 months ago so this paint has had some time to cure if that matters)

I will be using JC660 per your recommendation when the PF is ready. I've done all the paintwork with Anitas and Folk Art brand water based acrylics that can be bought in any Hobby shop. What's the best way (is there any way?) to make sure the paint is "stable" so the CC doesn't interact with it? Shoot a very light coat, 2 -3 times?

Starting over is a painful thought. Just to airbrush both sides of the multicolored "half moons" on the top part of the playfield was hours of taping and spraying - not to mention frisket work around the astronauts and shuttle. Any advice would be appreciated. I've got a bit of painting to complete yet (whites, insert outlines and one waterslide) but I'm hoping all the work I've done will be "OK" ... (fingers crossed)

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#1039 9 years ago

Vid, any thoughts on the below? On my BOP, I painted using my airbrush right to the PF with no base clearcoat. Will I need to apply differently now? Will clearcoat even be viable at this point. I airbrushed my last coats of white in the outlanes tonight but don't want to do too much more work on this until I'm sure I know what my best options are for laying down the clear ... worried

Quoted from MT45:

Vid - thanks for all this work. It's a huge help to me. I'm in the middle of a complete restore of my BOP. I've got her down to bare playfield, sanded smooth, and have color matched (using plastic chips and naptha) all colors.
ISSUE:
I've probably already airbrushed more than 15 hours of paint work BEFORE laying down any clear - oops ... Sprayed using my airbrush right on the bare (sanded) playfield. (I did all this work about 10 months ago so this paint has had some time to cure if that matters)
I will be using JC660 per your recommendation when the PF is ready. I've done all the paintwork with Anitas and Folk Art brand water based acrylics that can be bought in any Hobby shop. What's the best way (is there any way?) to make sure the paint is "stable" so the CC doesn't interact with it? Shoot a very light coat, 2 -3 times?
Starting over is a painful thought. Just to airbrush both sides of the multicolored "half moons" on the top part of the playfield was hours of taping and spraying - not to mention frisket work around the astronauts and shuttle. Any advice would be appreciated. I've got a bit of painting to complete yet (whites, insert outlines and one waterslide) but I'm hoping all the work I've done will be "OK" ... (fingers crossed)

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Shooting the white in the outlanes and robot base (frisket used in base and pinstriping tape on outlanes)

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#1043 9 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

As long as the paint is sticking and not coming up with the Frisket, you should be fine.
1000 ways to skin cats.

Paint is sticking very well, so I'll proceed. Thanks and thanks again for stewarding folks on this site...

#1044 9 years ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

From my experience. For some reason, matching grey is very difficult. Hope you have better luck than I am. I am still working on it. Almost any other color I have been able to match but grey sucks. Lol

Lonzo, thanks for all of your comments. If it's helpful, tonight I will send you the colors I used to mix my gray. It's almost undetectable when sprayed on existing. I also used clear acetate chips to paint tests on, then after dry, wipe with naphtha while holding on playfield to check color...

#1045 9 years ago

Lonzo not sure if it's helpful but I used Folk Art Plaid brand acrylic paint and several base colors to get my gray. One was "Light Gray" and the other "Steel Gray" - I sure wish I remembered by mix ratio. I'm pretty certain I added both white and black to these to get them "just right" ... gray is tough

Quoted from Lonzo:

For the Bride of Pinbot guy, I will let vid give the professional advice but the very first playfield I ever auto cleared I did the exact same thing you did except I didn't sand first. (Because I didn't know what I was doing. Lol)
I sanded the best I could without messing up the paint. I shot the playfield and had a ton of fisheyes. After it dried I sanded it and eye dropped the fisheyes and cleared again. The playfield looks amazing now with no hint of my mistakes.
I was using another brand of clear so I cannot comment on any adverse reactions it may or may it have.
You might have to do some leveling since the wear areas are probably lower than the rest of the playfield so you will probably have to shoot it again.
I am not responsible for anything I just said.

#1070 9 years ago

Vid... probably not but will this compressor work for clearcoat with Harbor Freight gun? 21 gallon, cast iron, fits in my car? And on sale $165 this week at HF.1407602992564.jpg1407602992564.jpg

#1072 9 years ago

Thank you sir!

Quoted from Lonzo:

That's what I have and it works fine. Make sure you break it in as the manual says.

2 months later
11
#1355 9 years ago

Just a quick note of thanks to Vid and others on this thread. After 2 years of starts and stops, I finally put down my first coat of clear. More work to do of course but the toughest step is behind me thanks to you all!

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#1364 9 years ago

Vid and fellow Pinsiders. I'm ready to finish my BOP but need some "next steps" guidance.

I've done 99% of the airbrush artwork repair already
Then....
I put down first coat yesterday (see pic)

Now what?

I think...(am I correct)

Sand first coat flat (how long do I wait to ensure fully cured in order to sand)
Finish my airbrush art repairs (I want to paint the unseen white areas that really help spread play field lighting)
Add a water slide decal (over an insert who's lettering was too damaged to simply touch up)
Add final coat of clear (again, now how long to wait for touch up paint to cure)

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6 months later
#2006 8 years ago

Hey team. Just finished sanding down my first ckear coat. Ready to apply finals tomorrow. First 2 pics are about 6 months ago after first clear coat. Last 2 pics are today (finally got back at it) and I sanded flat using orbital air sander. Used 800 grit.

Is that grit too fine to allow adequate adhesion of final coat?
Do the pics appear as if I've sanded enough?
I did remove the paper from block sander and sanded all shiny (valleys and usually post holes) by hand to make sure I got rid of gloss.

Lastly, tomorrow. When I put on my finals coat (JC661) can I wait say 15 minutes and add another coat?
Thx

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#2009 8 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

800 is going to be fine.
You just don't want too coarse of paper, or the clear can "shrinkback" and the sanding strokes will telegraph through, sometimes months latter.

Good.

Sure.
Try to keep it at 3 coats; you don't want it too thick.

Thx Vid

#2023 8 years ago

Shout out to Vid and others on this thread (Lonzo) for help in getting my BOP playfield completed and Clearcoated. I sure learned a lot. Made a few mistakes. Recovered well thanks to advice here. Had a gun clog on last clear session, had fisheyes too but was able to fix with "eyedropper" method. Well, it's finally done and I can finally put her back together and play again. My playfield did not come out perfect but it's 110% better than it was. There was some recent comments surrounding how long to wait to sand, polish and buff the last coat, so I took pics along the way. My final coats (2) were first a thin to medium coat ... then 10 minutes later as heavy as I dared go for the last one. I laid those final coats down this past Saturday (zero hour for reference in the below images, but no image of that session is provided). This means I polished/buffed and finished the payfield from "wet" to finished in just under 4 days. I used an air powered sander for all sanding (except dips and valleys were done by hand). I used a high speed drill (2,800 rpm) for all polishing. Foam pad for Novus, and Wool for Machine Glaze. Again thanks Vid for all the time and personal effort you put in here at Pinside - know that it is appreciated.

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#2031 8 years ago

Thought I'd post and update on my BOP. More to come on dedicated thread but I'm finally done! 3 years ago bought this off Craigs List with intentions to restore it. Took too long but with help from this thread it's finally complete!

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#2035 8 years ago

Guys, for those interested, here is my full post on the finished Bride of Pinbot. Can't thank Vid and you all enough!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/3-years-for-my-bride-of-pinbot

7 years later
#8062 1 year ago
Quoted from radium:

Noticed you never got an answer. I just use the one vid recommended 50 years ago, PPG JC660. People will gush about others, but a lot of those people are more experienced than I am and I like that JC660 is beginner-friendly. Like... I'm not going to run out and buy the same clear that HEP uses.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/16#post-1669058

I used similar JC661; medium hardener for my BOP
Came out awesome
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/3-years-for-my-bride-of-pinbot

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